New Gothic

In the constant rubric "Tendency" we closely look at trends that in one way or another affect our appearance every six months, but we reflect on them in the context of more significant trends. In the new article "New Gothic" we understand why designers abandoned neon and prints and turned to images from Gothic novels and films.

Recall a couple of major trends of the last year. Sport comes first to mind - thanks to the London Olympics. Then - tenderness with her beige-mint-pink pleats. At this time, the gothic style and the motto “black is new black” disappeared from our lives. However, this season, designers again become decadent. For example, the Bottega Veneta and Gucci models are black-and-white-coated with feathers, Givenchy and Yves Saint Laurent are experimenting with rough skin and metal, and Haider Ackermann and Helmut Lang recall androgynous images with asymmetry and draperies. It’s all because of fatigue from previous trends, or the popularity of heroines Kristen Stewart and Helena Bonham Carter, or hysteria around grim TV shows and movies, such as American Horror History and the Girls with the Dragon Tattoo.

From left to right: Haider Ackermann SS 2013, Tommy Ton Street Style, Vogue Paris September 2012, Nastya Kusakina at the Givenchy FW 2012 show, Alexander McQueen SS 2013, Street Style from Tumblr

Speaking of gothic, usually means two things. Gothic architecture, originated in the XII century in France and characterized by majesty and inaccessibility, sharpness and subtlety of forms, stained glass windows and stucco. And the subculture is ready, which appeared in the 1970s as an offshoot of the punk movement. The subculture influenced and influences the fashion for the most part, the representatives of which copied their style with the musicians - first of all the founders of the genre like Bauhaus and Siouxsie and the Banshees. They gave the Goths their appearance: they brought into fashion the disheveled black hair, pale faces with thick eyes, and, as they say, total black look. Interestingly, in the late seventies, Karl Lagerfeld was fond of Gothic: he had a ball, to which guests were supposed to come in tragic and dark dresses.

From left to right: Yohji Yamamoto Archive, Keith Lanfire, The Face September 1997, The Muse FW 2009, Siouxsie and the Banshees, Givenchy Haute Couture SS 2012

Trends of the New Gothic

The gothic of this season is not as rough as it was a couple of years ago. Remember how everyone copied stylists Kate Lanfir and Panos Yapanis, dressed in black overalls and hung with kilograms of metal ornaments from head to foot. Now the gothic images are more feminine, like vampire ones, the benefit of modern culture contributes to this. We list several common trends - from black and velvet with skin and lace to gothic accessories and makeup. But we add that on the catwalks other gothic signs also flash: outerwear on the floor and capes, like crows feathers as décor and an asymmetrical cut with draperies.

The black

In the context of our trend, black color can surely be called a trend, although in ordinary life a language will not turn to call it fashionable in the sense that we call fashionable, say, pink or light green. This does not apply to every other small black dress, but rather to the floor-length dresses with immodest cutouts and transparent inserts like Emilio Pucci or Prabal Gurung. Knitted things with a lot of holes and cuts by John Rocha and Mark Fast look appropriate too.

Leather

This season, the title of the favorite material of the vast majority of designers received leather. It can be black, like Acne and McQ, scarlet, like Thakoon and Valentino, or burgundy, like Hakaan and Peter Som. Matte, even slightly brilliant, as in the Proenza Schouler show, or lacquer, as in the collections of Emilio de la Morena or Guy Laroche. Balmain and Lanvin sew leather tops, Mulberry and Viktor & Rolf - pants and skirts, Calvin Klein and Givenchy - dresses, and Costume National and Mugler - overalls. What to say, we need a second skin this fall.

Velvet

Dramatic velvet floor dresses in their appearance in the new collections of Andrew Gn and Bottega Veneta are bound to the Victorian era. Frida Giannini, creative director of Gucci, was inspired by the romance of 19th century decadence to use this fabric in emerald and purple colors. Well, Carly Kloss in a scarlet velvet dress with a slit from the thigh and in a black cape on the show Jean Paul Gaultier - none other than the queen of the night, well, or vampires.

Lace

Lace may be associated with tenderness or sexuality, and may be reminiscent of the Gothic. Black lace dresses this season were shown by lovers of femme fatale Dolce & Gabbana and Erdem, and Michael Kors has a tight-fitting dress made from this material red. Alberta Ferretti made a top and pants out of lace, and put a coat on the floor over her, and Paul & Joe made a shirt from lace that a gothic girl could wear to work.

Gothic accessories and jewelery

Accessories will help you to put a dot in a bow with a black dress on the floor or a leather top and skirt. For example, a la Ann Ann Demeulemeester or Nina Ricci boots, high gloves a la Bottega Veneta or Givenchy, a bag with rivets like Valentino, or a clutch with crosses like Versace. The company will make jewelry like a necklace with a Lanvin tiger or massive Yves Saint Laurent bracelets, plus, of course, massive rings on each finger.

Gothic makeup

Recently, makeup artists have campaigned for a healthy complexion, some kind of natural lipstick and one or two layers of mascara. However, this fall, you can make up more gloomily. Make the skin pale, but not like Robert Pattinson, but like the Giles and Spotrmax models. The emphasis is either on the lips (they should be burgundy or almost black), or on the eyes (thick blue shadows a la Gianfranco Ferre or sweeping arrows in the spirit of Lanvin). Aerobatics is a Givenchy make-up with livid white faces and brown eyelids and lips.

Gothic in images from movies

The cinema industry clearly favors the gothic style: it’s only recently that Raven and Frankenvini have been released, not to mention a dozen films and TV shows about vampires. We do not exclude that it is cinema that influences fashion trends, and we recall images from the classics and new pictures.

AT"Hunger" Tony Scott Catherine Deneuve and David Bowie play a pair of black-skinned vampires, and the gothic rockers Bauhaus appear with the song Bela Lugosi's Dead as the musical guest in the film.

In fact, it was possible to include only films by Tim Burton in this collection. From "Edward Scissorhands" with gothic images of johnny depp 1990 up"Dark Shadows" with, it must be confessed, also gothic images of Johnny Depp and Eva Green and Michelle Pfeiffer in luxurious dresses. Note that even the costumes of the heroes of the cartoon "Corpse Bride" deserve attention.

"Addams family" Barry Sonnenfeld with Angelica Houston and Christina Ricci - a guide on how to look gothic at home.

Road movie about two friends-ready"Gypsy 83" will show how the representatives of the subculture dressed at the very beginning of the two thousandth.

After exiting "Girls with a dragon tattoo" in 2011, Rooney Mara became an icon of style, and a number of brands, such as H & M, released collections of clothing inspired by the film. Designer minds hacker style Lisbeth Salander also influenced.

In the new horror film Francis Ford Coppola"Between" El Fanning, who looks like a dead bride, plays one of the main roles - she is pale, with red shadows and lipstick and in a Victorian dress with a leather corset.

Things in the style of the new Gothic in online stores

Composing a bow that refers to gothic is not that difficult. Take a draped jersey floor, a scarlet velvet skirt or leather trousers as a basis, add a massive necklace with crosses, silver bracelets and a pair of rings with large stones that can be easily found in online stores. The only thing, do not forget about the measure: after all, the fashion for Gothic aesthetics and the style of ready-informals are two different things.