The best thing that happened on New York Fashion Week
Olesya Iva
September is a hot time for the fashion industry: one after another are the main world fashion weeks. The first in this series has traditionally become the New York. Before it began, we made assumptions about who to expect the main surprises, and now it's time to take stock. We tell what really outstanding happened on the eventful American Fashion Week and explain how important it is.
Alexander Wang show
Alexander Wang closed the theme of the sneakers, showing things inspired by the design of such popular models as the Nike Flyknits and adidas Stan Smith. In this case, the show was not a single pair of sports shoes - only heels. Separately, I would like to mention the clutch-sneakers, details on the clothes from the sports mesh and tight pants with a high waist, which will be a hit next spring. Vang made a significant step from the androgynous autumn collection back to sexuality, in particular, he returned the mini-dresses to his collections. Something similar can be seen in the designer's capsular collection for H & M - we guarantee that these sexy sports mini-dresses will scatter in a second. Everything seemed to be in the first row of the show - from Rihanna and Kim Gordon to Niki Minaj, who arranged the “Anaconda” on the backstage.
Marc by Marc Jacobs Show
The Marc by Marc Jacobs collection, which Englishwomen Katie Hillier and Luell Bartley are engaged in, was one of the brightest and most progressive at Fashion Week in New York. Katie and Luell continue to work with street aesthetics and interpret the rave culture of the 90s. Iroquois fit perfectly into the overall styling; they screwed on models using old photos of Bjork, weights, body bags and latex leggings, as well as bra-tops and light parks with pockets. Designers continue to work with graphics and prints: they put “Industrial” and “New World System” signs on T-shirts, reminiscent of club flyers from the past. Individual attention is given to asymmetrical dresses, tailored from bra-tops, T-shirts and pleated packs - their Katie and Luell combined with heavy colored shoes. In the first row of the collection, applauded Alex Chang, Marc Jacobs in a white-boiled shirt and Chinese actress Kitty Zhang Yuki in a baseball cap and a shirt with acid prints.
Rodarte show
Kate and Laura Mallivi, the designers of the brand Rodarte, interpreted two trends in their own way: the 70s and the autdor. They showed jockey pants in obtyag in combination with blouses, dress-shawls in honor of the 70s legend Ozzy Clark and parks with pockets, made in the technique of patchwork from various materials - from knitting and mesh to sequins. For the same proprietary technology, the sisters of Mullivi have been making dresses for many years. In addition, the designers decided to resurrect fashion for skinny jeans, which were tucked into gladiators at the show. Obviously, Malliwi has enough sense of humor to ironically over such great guilty pleasure, like jeans strung on boots. Eyebrow models decorated fake piercing - do not even think of repeating it at home. The show was played by a completely elegant soundtrack: from Brian Eno "The Big Ship", Felt "Primitive Painters" and "Mari" by Martin Reva to a cover of "Rock'n'Roll Is Killing My Life" Suicide.
Show Hood By Air
Another highlight of this Fashion Week was the show Hood By Air, a brand founded by DJ GOE G0TH1K duet member Shane Oliver. This year, the designer received a LVMH prize and a grant of 100 thousand euros. Shane again demonstrated a variety of beauty at the show and blurred gender boundaries as much as possible: it was absolutely impossible to understand whether boys or girls walked along the catwalk in deconstructive outfits and bulky sneakers. In the new season, Shane is actively developing the denim line and is increasingly moving towards minimalism and complex designs in the spirit of Helmut Lang - the brand that Oliver focuses on. The soundtrack of the show consisted of Travis Scott's The Storm is Passing Over and Don't Play.
In addition to the Hood By Air among young designers, one can mention the show of Parsons graduates and the joint show of the VFILES store, in which two Russian designers took part: Tigran Avetisyan and Dasha Selyanova. Watch the VFILES show here.
Proenza Schouler Show
Designers of the Proenza Schouler brand Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez showed what wearability is in 2015: clear silhouettes (more commercial) and natural materials. Last season, they experimented with psychedelic prints and geometric exaggerated shapes that looked cool in the picture and too difficult in life. Now, instead of bulky bombers - leather coats, and instead of asymmetrical dresses - T-shirt dresses as simple as possible. Most of the outfits from the new collection of Proenza Schouler are made of knitwear and knitting of different types (small, large and fringed): pants, tops, skirts, dresses, T-shirts, polo. The second half is made of leather, including python. From her brand sews jackets, midi length dresses, shirts and pants. Bags from python and mules with fringe complement all this.
New impression formats
Today, a lot of talk about the archaic fashion shows and the need to change formats. In this sense, New York Fashion Week was rich in experiments. Some of the designers focused on small presentations that are not less, or even more effective in terms of working with buyers and the press. Others explored new and recalled forgotten formats - recall the 4D premiere of the female line Polo Ralph Lauren, modern ballet and video installation by Gareth Pugh, Spike Jonze and John Hill's play for Opening Ceremony and closing Marc Jacobs fashion show, where guests were given Dr. headphones. Dre. Headphones on the Marc Jacobs show enhanced the effect of the presence of a two-level soundtrack. This idea came from John Smith's 1976 short film "The Girl Chewing Gum", where viewers can hear the voice-over of the director who controls the actors on the set.
Asian Designs Shows
A separate and powerful wave of American designers today are designers with Asian roots. In addition to Alexander Wang, the list includes a dozen names: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Thakoon, Naeem Khan, Hanako Maeda in ADEAM, Derek Lam, Eudon Choi, Prabal Gurung, Bibhu Mohapatra and Jason Wu. Jason Wu showed in New York two calibrated and wearable collections. For Jason Wu's own brand name, cut-out pencil skirts, jackets with belts, shirt dresses with pockets, blouses with bows, khaki suede and translucent dresses; as well as things of clean silhouettes for the German brand Hugo Boss. Prabal Gurung also made two collections - besides his own brand, the designer creates things for ICB.