Things with inscriptions and logos in spring-summer collections
IN A CONSTANT WONDERZINE HEAD talks about trends from the podium that can be adapted for your wardrobe for the next six months. In this issue, we understand how the logos are back on clothes, and stupid T-shirts are no longer non-grata and appeared in the collections of serious brands.
How it all began
Andy Warhol was the first to ironically interpret the role of logos in the 20th century, linking pop culture, consumer culture, art and fashion with their help. Campbell soups migrated from supermarket shelves to Warhol's canvases, and then to T-shirts. On the cover of "The Velvet Underground and Nico" instead of the name of the group or album there was a banana. Three years later, one of the most iconic and cited logos appeared on the other side of the Atlantic - red lips with tongues invented for The Rolling Stones by John Pash (T-shirts with the logo of your favorite band are still one of the most popular things with logos). In the 80s on the wave of hip-hop and the cult of "branded things" logos appear on clothes everywhere. The very fact of the existence of things with inscriptions is obliged to iconic street labels who have made a simple white T-shirt with the logo the most accessible thing for those who want to join the “magic of the brand” (you can’t even talk about the power of the Nike or Adidas logo). For example, let's say thanks to the brand Stussy, which originated in the 80s among California skaters and surfers. Or the French brand Pigalle (whose brand T-shirts and sweatshirts with the Paris brand logo are sold out instantly) founded in 1994 by the New York Supreme brand (Pigalle brand name), the iconic Amsterdam shop and the Patta brand of the same name, which, by the way, by its tenth anniversary had released years of collaboration with the same Stussy brand. It is the logos that made these brands the most recognizable in the world.
The interest in streetmarks fueled and many limited capsules, collaborations with artists and musicians - all this turned them into cult and determined their further influence on modern fashion. Thus, the red and white Supreme logo and the black Pigalle seem to have been living their own lives for a long time - we buy simple T-shirts and caps with these logos just for the sake of owning the logo itself. In addition, things with the logos of these street brands have become so popular thanks to celebrities - A $ AP Rocky put on a Pigalle t-shirt, and Kate Moss's picture of a Supreme t-shirt and a leopard fur coat went down in history. In the late 90s, everyone could have a significant thing: first, the Medusa Gorgon Versace settled on the cheapest things of the brand, and then on fakes; things with logos from D & G to Fendi poured from the boutiques to the markets.
How to wear things with inscriptions now
Things with logos of famous brands have been familiar to us since childhood, and it seems that everyone wore travel T-shirts and hoodies with the inscription "I love NY (Paris, London)" at least once. True, in recent years we have tried not to leave them at home - at least in the store. But the situation is changing rapidly: brands have a passion for logomania, last seen in the 90s and early 2000s (look at the MIA collection for Versus Versace), and adult fashion consumers, inspired by the normcore, wear funny T-shirts without shame . First, the trend for logos and inscriptions on clothes went to fashionable people thanks to Kenzo sweatshirts, not to mention Brian Lichtenberg's pop stuff with the inscriptions "Homies" and "Féline", and then young brands that exploit street aesthetics replaced Stussy and Supreme. For example, three-letter HBA sweatshirts have become the most desirable thing for all street-style bloggers who have replaced their outdated Kenzo and Givenchy sweatshirts with them. It is important to note that sweatshirts with logos of brands such as VFiles or Hood by Air - this is not a tribute to street fashion, but pure fashion here and now. Unlike their predecessors, they are part of a large industry: the brand created by the New York DJ and promoter shows their collections at New York Fashion Week, and its founder draws inspiration from the streets of Brooklyn and from the ideas of the minimalist Helmut Lang. Sweatshirts with the HBA logo are still fresh, but Style.com and Business of Fashion are writing about their creators.
On the basis of interest in the 90s and early 2000s, things with inscriptions today appear in the collections of designers from Missoni to Alexander Wang. Christopher Kane shows a purple sweatshirt with the words "Petal" and transparent dresses with the words "Flower". Raf Simons for Christian Dior puts inscriptions on dresses. Vivienne Westwood shows a cat. This season's DKNY brand not only included items with inscriptions in the prêt-à-porter collection, but also in another capsule created with Opening Ceremony, where they made it on the hits of the DKNY archives of the 90s: sneakers, bags, T-shirts and sweatshirts with large logos. Marc by Marc Jacobs refers to things with inscriptions even in the next fall-winter collection, as does Nasir Mazhar, who spills his own logos on the edge of clothing in the manner of TLC outfits. Someone does not work with their own logos or abstract inscriptions, but with the iconic logo of the largest corporations. For example, Ashish shows T-shirts and T-shirts with Coca-Cola. The idea immediately picks up the mass market - things with the brand name of soda can be found in Topshop and Uniqlo.
BEWARE!
In the wake of the spread of normcor, European and American youth took out T-shirts and caps with inscriptions from their own bins and from distant shelves of cheap supermarkets: they are not allowed to wear them anywhere and in any way, because in a healthy society no one should look askance at tomfoolery. But still it is worth remembering that these things look best in the context of street fashion: with jeans, leggings, sports shoes, large gold earrings (like Iggy Azalea) or thin chains in the style of the 90s, denim skirts with zippers in front . For inspiration, you can explore the bow of the women's collection Stussy. Well, the best that can happen with a t-shirt from Auchan is that it can be cut off under a crochet top and worn with a tennis-colored skirt or wide-leg pants and high-heeled shoes.
Photo: Getty Images / Fotobank (3), Sipa Press / Fotodom (1)