Spirits of the past: Aromas-biographies of Darwin, Wilde and other people
In early March in Moscow Beauty Boutique Chanel began selling a new fragrance from the Lesia Exclusifs de Chanel - Misia biographer line dedicated to a close friend of Coco Chanel. We decided to tell in detail about him and recall other flavors that are dedicated to real people.
Fueguia 1833 Darwin
The young and extremely prolific perfumer Julian Bedela has already released more than sixty flavors in seven collections. One of them, Personajes, is dedicated to famous people associated with the history and culture of the native Bedela of Argentina. There is, for example, Darwin, inspired by anyone: a naturalist visited not only Argentina, but also other countries of the coast of South America as part of his five-year world tour. The perfumer wanted to create the scent of the Beagle ship cabin, on which Darwin sailed; in practice, this resulted in a combination of cedar, vetiver and grapefruit notes, which could hardly have been associated with any other Englishman.
Juliette Has a Gun Calamity J.
Calamity J. is called the most unfeminine feminine fragrance of Romano Ricci and not surprising - the initiation of Beda Jane would be feminine only in mockery. This person is interesting from all sides: firstly, it is not clear whether Jane really participated in military campaigns in the framework of the Indian Wars and was married to the famous American shooter of the Wild West, Bill Hickok. Secondly, if this is all untrue, even a boring person would not have been able to create such rumors about himself — and Jane, with her addiction to gambling, alcohol and great compassion for the sick and in need, cannot be called such. In Calamity J. Ricci has mixed a number of natural and artificial ingredients, including cinnamon, toffee, musk, amber and Iso E Super molecule, which is most known in the form of mono-aromatics Escentric Molecules Molecule 01.
Sweet Tea Apothecary La Reine Antoinette
Marie Antoinette added aromatic oils even to water and preferred to choke her gloves. In fact, while hunting for entertainment, the queen inspired more than one perfume maker, but we decided to stop at the young American brand Sweet Tea Apothecary. Behind her is a young girl, JT Sims, who has decided to devote herself to creating historical flavors. Sims has already mixed 17 flavors from natural oils (including four "men's"); In La Reine Antoinette, notes of moss, bergamot, patchouli, and jasmine were added — according to the author’s idea, they should be transferred to the gardens of Versailles, where the young queen spent a lot of time after moving to France.
Les Exclusifs de Chanel Misia
Les Exclusifs de Chanel is essentially a niche line of a popular brand, and Misia is the fifteenth fragrance. He is dedicated, like all previous ones, to people and events that have played a significant role in the life of Coco Chanel herself, this time to her close friend Misa Sert. The release is remarkable not only for the person of the inspirer (temperamental Mysia was a man of many creative activities and was friends with the stars of her time: Dyagilev, Picasso, Stravinsky and not only), but also because it is the first fragrance that was created for the brand Olivier Polzh. He took up the post of his father, the permanent "nose" of Chanel Jacques Polzha since 1978, and while he will work with him; powdery Misia nonetheless its independent flavor. It is clearly heard notes of violets, which in the line of Les Exclusifs has not yet been and which resemble the smell of theatrical make-up of the last century, - this is how the younger Polj sought for the old-fashioned effect in a good sense.
Pozzo di Borgo 23 Janvier 1984
The Pozzo di Borgo family hails from Corsica and from the 12th century gave the world many talents. On January 23, 1984, Valentina Pozzo di Borgo was born, and from that day begins the story of a single-family perfume house. Valentina is its founder, seeking to recreate childhood memories through smells, and also to capture portraits of her relatives. The beginning of the girl, oddly enough, from myself: the first fragrance of the brand 23 Janvier 1984 records the date of birth of Valentina and embodies her perfect scent. To achieve it, perfumer Violen Collas, who worked on the flavors of Amouage, Atkinsons and État Libre d'Orange, mixed contrasting bergamot, vetiver, musk, fig and cardamom.
Oscar de la Renta Oscar
In 1977, the Oscar floral aroma came out, weaving notes of white flowers and thickly sweet and resembling its predecessors of the beginning of the century: Coty L'Origan, Guerlain L'Heure Bleue and Elizabeth Arden Blue Grass (from modern fragrances we can recall similar Estée Lauder SpellBound, Giorgio Armani Armani Code and Tom Ford Shanghai Lily). The perfumer Jean-Louis Süzak, who worked on Opium YSL and the Diorian Farenheit, Bel Ami and Dune, set the scent to recreate the childhood memories of the designer Oscar de la Renta while creating the fragrance. It should be noted that in addition to this he was able to bring back the mentioned florient smells to the fashion.
Guerlain Eau de Cologne Impériale
The house of Guerlain was in the hands of its founders, the Guerlain family, for more than a century and a half (in 1994 it was bought by the all-powerful conglomerate LVMH). In 1853, the Eau de Cologne Impériale fragrance was created, created for (and therefore about) the French emperor Napoleon III and his wife, Empress Eugenia. The perfumer Pierre-Francois mixed it and received for this generous - not only material - reward, having taken the title of the official perfumer of the emperor. Interestingly, the Eau de Cologne Impériale can be bought now; if you like the aromas of fougeres, then this powerful blend of citrus, rosemary and white cedar is worthy of attention not only because of the luxurious bottle (sorry) and its content, but also the sounded history.
Jardins D'Écrivains Wilde
Jardins D'Écrivains has several literary variations; The most obvious and suitable for today's story, we believe Wilde perfumed water. The founder of the brand, Anaïs Biguin herself creates fragrances for her, Wilde is no exception. This fruity glass jardins d'Écrivains is served as a masculine one, and it is not difficult for us to understand them: bergamot, vetiver, cloves are really perceived, rather, as masculine notes; nevertheless, such positioning does not prohibit women from using the scent. Biguin notes that Wilde’s dictums (one of them even presents a scent: “This man’s thought was the inspiration for it”) served as inspiration for her, but we don’t see meaning to separate creativity from the figure of its author.
Les Parfums du Château de Versailles Les Ors de Versailles
The new brand has chosen a noble mission for itself - to restore the aromas of the French royal court of the XVII-XVIII centuries. Behind her (and brand and idea), the former Minister of Culture of France and President of the Palace of Versailles, Jean-Jacques Ayagon, who had access to the archives of the palace and, accordingly, heaps of formulas stored in it. The reconstruction (the term "reproduction" is better not to use in this case, because it is impossible to create a 100% analogue of the old perfume in modern conditions) is the French company CFFC Fragrances; after the fragrances dedicated directly to the palace, she released Les Ors de Versailles, which was created for the bride of Louis XIV, Maria Theresa. It is a fruity aroma with notes of white musk, amber and white cedar at the base and jasmine, pear and grapefruit.
Jul et Mad Amour de Palazzo
The creators of the brand Jul et Mad (in the name, of course, their names are encrypted) love themselves and each other: a section with a description on the site is reserved not only for scents, but also for the couple’s history. Let's not joke, in this case, such openness is dictated not by narcissism, but by the concept of the brand: if Jules and Mud had not met and loved each other, no Jul et Mad would have happened. They consistently analyze their feelings and dedicate another fragrance to it (for example, the Eastern Woody Amour de Palazzo interprets the first meeting). Such an idea appeals to us that it presupposes the union of two people as a fruitful whole and that it does not draw the line between lovers - that is, it does not hang the labels "male" or "female."