Brand niche perfumes worthy of universal love
Conceptual Perfumery as a Category sometimes collects disgruntled reviews, they say, manufacturers no longer know how to dodge and attract a buyer, but it would be better to just make a good fragrance. There is some truth in these complaints, but having an idea does not make the scent worse. Does the stated conceptuality mean that they work less on the smells themselves and they turn out to be of lower quality, but the tinsel around them is more elegant? In general - no, and in the ideal world, the conceptual and art perfumery both form and content are on the same level, the first simply does not recede into the background. We tell about new or completely unknown brands that reveal stories with fragrances, explore interesting phenomena or document important aspects of reality.
Re profumo
Re Profumo perfumery house is completely new: it was founded last year, and it seems that this project is complete. The fact is that it is dedicated to one book: each fragrance of six "retells" one chapter. The choice of the work is not accidental: the author of the novel "Re Profumo" Fulvio Fronzoni himself started the perfume project. He became interested in perfumery in 2007, when he met the CEO of the Italian perfume company Intertrade Group - the cooperation was not long in coming. Fronzoni, however, has not yet become a perfumer: the experienced "noses" were already working on the smells, and the writer was in charge. Re Profumo, by the way, recently arrived in Moscow: you can get to know them on the first floor of the Central Department Store.
Diana vreeland
Another recent addition to the Moscow perfumery landscape, but talking about the brand is not only so. According to Angelica Houston, before the editor of Harper's Bazaar and Vogue Diana Vreeland all the magazines wrote about how to make a cake for her husband for dinner, but she sent cakes to hell and made magazines for modern women. Or even timeless: Vreeland believed that style is not fashionable clothes, but the life that you live in it. About the legendary editor, you can talk endlessly, so back to perfumery. The grandson Vriland Alexander knew how important the smells were for his grandmother, and therefore he chose them as a dedication. In the Diana Vreeland collection for the year appeared eight flavors with big names like Absolutely Vital and Simply Divine. All are initially positioned as a unisex, although Fragrantica for some reason classifies most of them as women’s (however, the gender marker on the fragrance labels does not matter).
Uermi
UerMi is the owner of the perfume boutique Palmiro Peaquin and a team of three perfumers (Antoine Leigh, Jean-Jacques and Philippe Busseton), who undertook to shift the fabrics into the language of smells. The approach is not so new, but it does not become bad. At first, the brand acted with restraint and interpreted good-quality tweed, jeans and cashmere, and then sold out and unexpectedly rolled out “latex” (we instantly recall the Meat brand with “everyday latex clothing”). The last update of the ruler also does not fit into the woven theme, but beats the more familiar material - paper. However, not ordinary, but washi, which Japanese artisans use in making clothes. So there is nothing to complain about.
nu_be
Each nu_be fragrance is dedicated to a specific chemical element. They are not chosen at random but in the literal sense of science: the founder of the brand, Alberto Borri, undertook to explain the Big Bang olfactory, one of the theories of the origin of the Universe. To do this, according to Borri, we must pay tribute to all the elements that are known to man: hydrogen, helium, lithium, carbon, oxygen, and further down the table, from simple to complex. Several perfumers work for nu_be, and everyone has the opportunity to offer their own interpretation of the topic. Oxygen, for example, in Antoine Lee turned out to be woody, because when creating an aroma, he imagined a "tree full of oxygen." It sounds, according to Lee, as a mixture of musk, vetiver, saffron, pepper and, accordingly, woody notes.
Les Liquides Imaginaires
We talked about this French house a couple of times, but we cannot do without it in talking about conceptual perfumery. Designer Philip di Meo and his partner, David Frossard, as no one understand what it means to serve correctly, and build their brand in a balanced way, occasionally releasing trilogies of fragrances. First, they comprehended the very art of perfumery, the second - alcohol, the third - the forest. All interpretations are gloomy, but they are not afraid of Les Liquides Imaginaires and even nurture it. Di Meo and Frossard do not mix the fragrances themselves, but formulate the concepts and give them to perfumers.
Meo fusciuni
Meo Fusciuni is more correct to call it art perfumery, for which not only the carefully constructed concept of smell is important, but the process of its presentation, the interaction of the viewer with the smell, and before that - the analysis of history. Its founder, who gave the brand his own name, calls himself a researcher of the olfactory memory (presumably, the experience of working as a chemist and extensive knowledge of herbalism only help this). Meo Fuchini also thinks in series: the first trilogy of his scents summed up his feeling of traveling, the second couple - from poetry, and the third is devoted to mysticism. Unlike the creators of Les Liquides Imaginaires, Fuchini invents aromas and mixes himself, and all of them are made by hand.
Orlov paris
The precious stones are dedicated to no less than the queens, and the blood shed for them should be counted, perhaps, immediately by the seas. However, it’s not that the creators of Orlov Paris outplay the drama-quin: Ruth Meoll is a gemologist and, like no other, can analyze the character of the stones. Together with her husband Tom, she decided to put the case on stream and invited her favorite perfumer Dominique Ropion to create scents based on the five famous diamonds. One of them, as you can guess, chose "Orlova", besides this 190-carat giant, the Sea of Light, Asian Cross, Flame of Glory and Star of the Season were included in the collection, as is their nature.
Tabacora parfums
Tabacora Parfums unexpectedly from Poland, although the first (and so far the only) fragrances in the lineup are inspired by Arabic perfumery. The first couple in the mini-collections of Chariots of Love were given a serious mission by the creators: to characterize ideas about love in India (collections that reflect other parts of the world will come after them). They scrupulously approached the work, so both - Salim and Anarkali - are thick, plume, in the form of aromatic oils, traditional for India. Their bottles are also not originally from Poland in 2015: their vintage form and illustrations loudly state this.
Zoologist Perfumes
The brand is for those who are not devoid of self-irony and can not only proudly carry the phrase “it smells like an animal”, but also give it a diametrically opposite meaning. Victor Wong, the founder of Zoologist Perfumes, like many colleagues was inspired by nature and decided to devote the aroma to outstanding fauna. In the collection so far four perfume waters: in honor of the beaver, panda, rhino and hummingbird. Each time, while working with Zoologist Perfumes, perfumers study not only the appearance and character of animals, but their habitat and herbal ingredients that grow in it (animals do not use an animal for obvious ethical reasons) - everything that the aroma is as credible as it is possible.
Fargginay
Well, in the end you can fool around. Sometimes people come to perfume from very distant areas, like the writer Fulvio Fronzoni mentioned today, the designer Oliver Valverde or the Paris butcher John Fargin. A century ago, he had the idea to interfere with the essence of bacon in the "normal" aroma from essential oils - who, if not the butcher, knows how people love bacon. As a result, it was in the shop that they began to come for the spirits, and not for the meat. Everything was spoiled by the big fire of 1924, in which both the shop and the written aroma formula burned. Fortunately, almost a hundred years later, enthusiasts restored it, founded the Fargginay perfume house and released two versions of bacon cologne: Bacon Classic and Bacon Gold. In the second there are citrus notes, the first one is characterized as a spicy maple, but in both there is the very essence of bacon from the 1920s.
