The best thing that happened at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia
olesya willow
In September, key passed Fashion weeks in London, New York, Milan and Paris. Now came the turn of Russia. Following the Aurora Fashion Week in St. Petersburg in Moscow ended the 29th Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia. We talk about the six best shows of Moscow Fashion Week and explain how important they are.
Ria keburia
Ria Keburiya, a young designer with Georgian roots, is based in Paris and is successfully sold in the Moscow Index shop. New Ree collection about infantilism and the game of fashion. The women's collection designer showed and boys and girls. Ria says, that precisely childhood - time unisex, when you could wear all, that pleases. Despite the avant-garde, the collection included many silk and wearable things of pure pastel colors: loose skirts, shorts and pants that can be easily worn, abstracting from specific images. In addition, Riya showed a lot of transparent things from durable polyamide, which, if desired, can be lined in any color. The new collection includes soft slippers and sandals on the platform, reminiscent of children's pyramids. Also Keburia has released a collaborative collection of glasses with the Moscow brand Fakoshima.
Cap america
This year Moscow designer Olya Shurygina completed an internship at Ermanno Scervino’s house, presented her brand in London at the Young Creative Entrepreneur competition and showed one of the best collections at Moscow Fashion Week. From the works of Oli, it is clear that the designer is aware of what is “being worn now”. She not only worked with the two main trends - patch pockets and mini A-silhouette dresses - but also skillfully styled all things with slippers. The designer decorated skirts, tops, dresses, dressing gowns and raincoats with many pockets. In addition, Shurygin was obviously inspired by the Russian avant-garde - her dresses with a print in the form of a color gradient resemble the Suprematist silhouettes of Malevich’s heroes (remember at least the Woodcutter and Haymaking). Models at the show walked along the runway to the Pantha du Prince soundtrack in mini-dresses with a gradient and fitted midi lengths, the fabric texture of which resembles paper. Frankly, I want to wear just about all the things from the collection.
Galetsky
Anton Galetsky, a graduate of the Omsk School of Design and Magistrates of the Marangoni Institute, founded a personal name brand in 2011. Obviously, in the new season, the designer is inspired by the collections of Ashish Gupta and Jeremy Scott, who work best with the symbols of modern pop culture. So, Anton, after them, creates things from sequins, interprets adidas and Coca-Cola logos, shows things with comics and works with the image of Barbie. Anton succeeds in commercial and youth things like sweatshirts, trench coats, denim, shirts with graphic inserts, dresses with thin straps and polo. However, in the course of the designer and some too predictable techniques like working with the aesthetics of the 90s and the yard culture, the relevance of which has logically exhausted itself. With all this, Galetsky is not without a sense of humor: the show closed the model in a T-shirt with the words “Fashion in Russia at last”.
Yasya minochkina
The Ukrainian designer is slowly but surely promoting the brand in Russia and making a show for the second season in a row during the Moscow Fashion Week. It should be noted that from season to season, the aesthetics of the brand is becoming more recognizable - this also applies to minimalist feminine things, and the styling of the collection, and the shows themselves. Minochkina shows characteristic laconic things from unusual materials. In the new season, the designer managed to combine sport, minimalism and aesthetics of the 70s. The designer added jackets with volumetric sleeves, dresses with patch pockets, flared pants, shorts and bra tops to traditional bomber jackets, dresses with a corset and skirts from the net, as well as dresses with contrasting inserts. Not without skate dresses, coats with hoods and things made of metallized cotton.
BA (Hons) Fashion
I want to believe that graduates of the British School of Design - the future of Russian fashion - will soon be pressed by questionable domestic brands, which are packed into the schedule of the Moscow week. At the graduation show "British" mini-collections showed several designers who clearly have potential.
Yulia Erokhina succeeded in minimalistic asymmetrical things with abstract prints, which the designer put on tops, coats, dresses and oversized pants. Anastasia Bernatskaya also knows what is now fashionable: she showed pants with cuts and well-tailored shirts and coats. I wanted to take a closer look at things from Vera Kulshitskaya: the designer used art-knitting; She obviously has a lot of good ideas, and Alexander McQueen’s collections serve as an inspiration. The problem with Kulshitskaya is that her things lack the wearability. Julia Pakalina showed light things to the floor - randomly tailored and from materials of different density. Her things with raw edges and prints-paintings deserve attention.
Daria Widely took up the complex material - colored skin, from which she created complex things, fringe and abstract applications. The most ambiguous things turned out to be Anna Azevich: the idea to mix Valentino and futurism is not the best. Collections of all designers could look an order of magnitude better if they were complemented by the correct styling. Properly chosen shoes, hairstyles and accessories are as important as design, but we often forget about it.
Julia Nikolaeva
The name of Yulia Nikolaeva in the schedule could have been overlooked - it is easy to get lost among the tumult of nominal Russian brands in Latin: Yegor Zaitsev, Maroussia Zaitseva, Yanina Vekhteva, Vika Smolyanitskaya, Marina Makaron, Bella Potemkina, Yulia Prokhorova, Olga Kariakina. However, attention should be paid to the girl, especially since Julia has been working on her personal brand since 1992 and has already been written about her by Dazed & Confused and Fashionista. Nikolayev is a rare designer who knows about the basic values of a wardrobe. She shows Bermuda shorts, well-tailored jackets with large pockets, pants, overalls, linen shirts, dresses with straps and raincoats. In the new season, the designer was inspired by kinetics. Models walked along the runway with lanterns in the hands of James Blake’s retrograde song. Another merit of Nikolaeva is that she does really wearable things, which her fashion week colleagues rarely manage.