Velvet in the autumn-winter collections

In the new category, Wonderzine talks about trends from the catwalk, which can be adapted for your wardrobe for the next six months. In this issue we understand why the material is returned, the clothes from which the monarchs and priests wore.

How it all began

Velvet - silk, and from the last century and polyester, treated in a special way. There are many types of this material: for example, Genoese velvet is like brocade, Turin velvet is sewn of silk with a little wool, and Ottoman velvet is covered with prints. It is believed that this fabric was invented in the XIII century in China, but its creation is also attributed to the Spaniards and the French. Clothes for kings and noblemen were sewn from velvet, and also allowed to decorate interior items. According to a recent exhibition in the Metropolitan Museum and the book Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History, velvet items reached their peak of popularity during the Renaissance, that is, at the end of the 14th - early 16th centuries. Southern Italy has always been famous for its velvet production, where, however, everything was always excellent with the sewing of any fabric. This type of work was considered a noble occupation, which is worthy of any gentleman. By the way, velvet was originally used for the production of men's clothing, women dressed in it later. And now on the catwalks more than ever a lot of velvet men's suits that Alexander Wang, that Ralph Lauren.

Modern velvet history looks pretty simple. It is considered one of the most common materials of the era of Art Nouveau. Already later in the 20th century, couture houses, from Carven to Balmain, used it as material for beautiful evening gowns - for good reason Italian Vogue calls velvet a symbol of luxury. In the 1970s, sweeping velvet dresses with deep necklines became popular due to nostalgia for the past. But in the future, this fabric, unlike denim or leather, almost does not acquire a subcultural hue: only the goths of the 1980s wore velvet things. Another velvet climb is experienced in the late 90s and early 2000s. Since then, he was even associated with the fashion for fetish, and now every second designer shows the velvet of a deep shade of precious stones - emeralds or sapphires.

How to wear velvet clothes

Now designers are turning not only to the decades of the last century, but also to the XVII and XVIII centuries. Thus, designer Christopher Caine mixes references to the clothes of that time with references to the works of the Scottish architect Charles Renny Mackintosh: he sews dresses with flared sleeves and inserts from a variety of thin laces. Such dresses at Kane are made of deep velvet flowers - burgundy and navy. Christopher is echoed by his colleague Marios Schwab, who created velvet dresses, which will organically fit into the Game of Thrones. When choosing such a dress, it is important not to look like a member of a historic club: you can wear it with men's shoes or basic sneakers. Velvet is loved by designers who develop sophisticated clothes. This is the Maison Martin Margiela team, which sews velvet and leather suits, and Albert Elbaz with Heider Akermann, who are considered to be masters of velvet draperies. Velvet also flashes in the collections of brands that promote traditional luxury, such as Gucci and Emporio Armani.

BEWARE!

The main thing is to remember two rules. Beware of velvet total bows, but if you still wear a costume made of this type of fabric, then choose accessories and shoes from a different material, preferably neutral in texture - for example, from matte leather. A velvet dress should not be too tight or short - as is the case with a dress made of other shiny material: you can look a bit vulgar in it.