Kiev Fashion Days, part I: What Ukrainian designers showed
From 17 to 20 October in Kiev The second Ukrainian Fashion Week was held - Mercedes-Benz Kiev Fashion Days. Wonderzine editors Rita Zubatova and Liza Kologreeva went to the show to review the collections of the most promising designers in the country (which, by the way, supports Fashion Scout platform one by one) and talk about their new shows. In the first report - Anna October, Anton Belinskiy, It's me by Dina Lynnyk, Yasya Minochkina and Ksenia Schnaider.
Anna October
Designer from Odessa Anya October we meet in the showroom Fashion Scout in Paris. Here she says that she was inspired by the Ukrainian Otradny: "In Moscow, for sure, is there the same?" From here - flowers on blue, red and turquoise jacquard, and indeed the image of a modern Turgenev girl. At the show, we see that things look even better on models than on rails: the dresses are designed to emphasize every curve of the body — October knows the anatomy of five. The designer continues the theme of the last collection: he creates elegant dresses from thin straps made of heavy fabric, combines different types of jacquard. Two things that hinder us during the show are direct associations with the display of Christopher Kane SS 2012 (in any form the brilliant jacquard with flowers will inevitably remind him) and alternate references to the work of either Jonathan Saunders or Miuccia Prada (here it’s already in a cut). But as Yoji Yamamoto said: "Copy. Copy. Copy. Copy. And you will find yourself." If only there were inclinations. And their 22-year-old October - a complete set.
It's me by Dina Lynnyk
Let's face it, from Dina Linnik, who showed a mini-collection along with other young designers, we are waiting for a great show next season: the girl is not inferior to her colleagues working in Kiev for more than a year. We learn about Dinah after winning the Harper's Bazaar design contest: there she stands out among other things with things in digital prints, but at that time, believe me, they were not stamped at such a wild speed as now. This season, when things with a colorful ornament are difficult to perceive even from Marie Katrantzu, Dina uses the skill more delicately: as if burnt stains appear around cuts on dresses and tops. With a cut, it works as skillfully: body fragments shine between segments of dense fabric, androgynous silhouette is cut with feminine length. Obviously, Dina's strength is in the sensitive sense of modernity: the quality for young designers, who often flirt with their aesthetics and forget to look around, is rare but wildly valuable.
Anton Belinskiy
While most designers try, look, test themselves (which, do not think, is also not bad), Anton Belinsky seems to clearly understand in which direction to go, and is not afraid to experiment. Obviously, the ideas of the designer are beaten with a key, and he walks on a thin line, risking to go into excess, but fortunately, he stops at the right moment: the images in the collection are complex, but not overloaded. Why "images"? Because Belinsky's things are difficult to perceive separately: fabrics, textures, colors work perfectly in combination, and without skillful styling they could look very different. Dresses with a pleated skirt, woven leather and jacquard inserts, voluminous coats and silk dressing gowns, wide trousers, opening a cut when walking, and shaggy sweaters are combined with golf and New Balance sneakers. The designer should work harder on the details: the execution could be cleaner, and the fabrics - better. But it comes with experience and, obviously, with financing. As for the rest, Anton should rely on Ukraine almost more than others.
Ksenia schnaider
During this season, Anton and Ksenia Schneider made three projects: a presentation of a part of the collection as part of Ukrainian Fashion Week, a full show in St. Petersburg at Aurora Fashion Week and another presentation at Mercedes-Benz Kiev Fashion Days, all this in two weeks. We saw the clothes for the first two times and stated: the guys continue to work with camouflage, which they first did a year ago. Previously, it was multi-colored, then monochrome, now it is drawn with a black outline on a white background. A duet print puts on simple silhouettes on dresses and skirts, to which are added T-shirts from the grid and a few things from metallized leather (to be honest, filled with teeth). The collection is basic, which is quite natural: Schneiders want to create clothes without a time frame, but the cut and shape could be more modern. By the way, at Kiev Fashion Days Schneiders decided not to show clothes, but made a digital presentation of the camouflage generator - a program that, as the name implies, generates new types of camouflage endlessly and will soon develop into an iPhone app. There is still no equal in work with duet technologies.
Yasya minochkina
Yasya Minochkina is one of the most famous young Ukrainian designers in the West: for two years she participated in ArtGeorgia, Chinese Fashion Week and London and Parisian Fashion Scout, thanks to which Glamor, Vogue and L'Officiel wrote about it. Perhaps the main advantage of the girl is that she creates high-quality commercial clothing. Nevertheless, the designer is not tearing a pattern of ideas. Minochkina's spring-summer collection goes beyond the framework familiar to the designer: it looks younger and more modern than all the previous ones. Top items include wet silk tops and dresses with cut-outs on the shoulders, textured silk pajamas and voluminous geometric vests made of polyamide-shaped silk that resembles the shape of American football players. Pleasantly surprised by the styling, with which many Ukrainian designers have problems: the models come in Panamas from organza and Nike sneakers.