Anita Gigovskaya, President, Condé Nast Russia
The heroines of the first Wonderzine publication do different things - they edit magazines and websites, open stores, invent clothes, arrange meals, sing in a group, do art and manage international companies. One thing unites them - everything that they do causes the processes around to accelerate. They are energetic, professional, self-sufficient and attract the same to them. No wonder almost everyone asked the question "What girls inspire you?" They answer that they do not know how to equal people who they personally do not know. But on their own equal other girls who will become our heroines very soon.
How has the media industry changed since you started working in it?
There were good photographers, stylists, makeup artists and hairdressers. Now the first issues of the Russian magazine Vogue look naive, seem to be a rehearsal. Everything was much less professional, more disheveled. If you do something for a long time, your hand gets crammed, and you start doing it well. In Russian Vogue is Russianness. We are trying to shoot Russian models in Russian locations. In the aesthetics of our picture, both royalty and redundancy in the scenery are mixed. In our shootings, the models of hairstyles and makeup are not the same as in the shootings of the French Vogue: Russian women are always ready to meet the prince. The girl you see in Russian Vogue is clearly identifiable as Russian. This is the task of a good fashion magazine: a girl in her country opens this magazine and thinks that she wants to look that way.
Work in a glossy magazine - it is hard, hard labor. Girls who work in glossy magazines are dressed in jeans and ballet flats, because it’s impossible to pass a whole working day on heels, especially if you have ten shows and 20 more presentations. If girls are seriously working in fashion, then they have no time to pose in front of cameras for bloggers.
When you work in Vogue magazine, you see so many beautiful, thin women. It puts off an imprint, and you start to pay attention to how you look, what you are wearing, how much you weigh. I would say this way: the cases when girls, coming to work in Vogue, relatively speaking, were agreed, I know much more than the cases when girls came to work in Vogue and remained girls with obesity.
Critics blamed the fashion industry for promoting unhealthy leanness, so Vogue stopped working with models under 16 years old three years ago. We do not work with models whose appearance shows that they are unhealthy, and with agencies that do not guarantee us that they meet certain standards of working conditions during filming. This means that the models should eat, that they are not exploited for 12-14 hours on the set. We do not want to promote anorexical leanness, we want to promote a healthy body.
What happens to the girls around you, how they change, what are they becoming interested in?
Now there are two groups of girls working in fashion. There are people-brands: these are Miroslava Duma, Elena Perminova, Oksana On, Uliana Sergeenko, Vika Gazinskaya. And there are girls who are first and foremost professionals. They are more interested in the product they produce. They are Alisa and Yulya Ruban, Natasha Goldenberg, Anna Dulgerova, Olga Dunina, Vika Davydova, Anna Zyurova.
What girls inspire you and why?
I’m inspired by English women in the American fashion industry: Anna Wintour, Glenda Bailey, Grace Coddington, and the late Liz Tilberis. They all came out of glossy English journalism. The English magazine press knows some amazing secret. Apparently, due to the fact that in England there is a serious culture of tabloids, it is the English editors who manage to make live and at the same time serious fashion magazines. These are artifact magazines, exhibitions and important books will be made about them.
What do you miss in Moscow?
Restaurants simple and tasty, like Uilliam's or Cork. I know that I should have mentioned Arrow or Oldich Drink, but in a restaurant, the concept is not the main thing, but food. And if the food is not perfect, then the restaurant has no right to be called, no matter how confused the concept. I miss big exhibitions, large-scale, with a swing and serious production, like what the Metropolitan Museum does in New York or Victoria & Albert in London. And in Moscow, I do not have enough sun.
What are the best projects of recent years?
Over the past five years, an unconditional fashion event - TSUM. Nobody expected that a fashionable department store with such a wealth of choice would appear in Moscow: it is a serious player on a global scale. Kuznetsky Most 20 is also an event, a conceptual boutique with the ambitions of the Russian Colette. I do not know how successful it is commercially, but this event. Russian Tatler - media event. No one would have thought that an English aristocratic magazine, which appeared in England 300 years ago, can make sense and success in Russia. And just like English Tatler writes accurately and vividly about old money, Russian Tatler writes ironically and bitingly about new ones. Russian Pack, street stars of Stylestyle - is also part of a large world fashion context. Duma, Gazinskaya, Perminova, Zyurova, Sergeenko, Vodyanova drew attention to Russia, to Russian women and fashion. Both Ulyana Sergeenko and Vika Gazinskaya are now sold in the West. Their clothes are stars, and this event.