Question to expert: How to choose a peeling for deep cleansing of the skin
We are launching a series of materials.For which professionals in the field of personal care, from dermatologists to massage therapists, tell us about everything you need to know in order to take care of yourself properly.
Human skin is not just a shell that protects the body from negative contact with the external environment, but also the largest organ of our body. And since he is the biggest, then he has the corresponding "circle of duties". Breathing, excretion, touch, participation in maintaining immunity, protection from mechanical, chemical and radiation effects - this is an incomplete list of tasks that our skin has to solve every day. In order for it to remain healthy, it must be regularly and thoroughly cleaned of horny scales and excess sebum. In addition to regular home washing and cleansing, there are deep peeling procedures - they are recommended to be carried out from time to time depending on the condition and skin type. Not only oily, but even the driest skin needs deep cleansing. The most important thing is to find the right way.
Irina Churikova
cosmetologist, training department head and Intraceuticals brand expert
All peelings can be divided into three main types. These are mechanical, chemical and enzyme. Mechanical peels always contain peeling particles of various sizes, shapes and composition. For example, particles of plant or mineral origin will have the strongest abrasive ability, they intensively remove dead skin cells of the epidermis, flatten the micro-relief, stimulate microcirculation, but at the same time injure the skin, creating micro-cuts. This option is good for those who suffer from hyperkeratosis and have a rough, thick, oily skin. Another option is polyethylene and wax granules, they are much softer, have an ideal spherical shape and delicately clean the areas even with thin and sensitive skin. Mechanical peels are perfect for oily, normal and combination skin and are absolutely contraindicated in areas with rosacea and rashes. Here you have to choose only between enzyme peels.
Plant enzymes (they are enzymes) remove only dead skin cells without affecting healthy ones at all. This is the softest type of peeling, suitable even for very thin and sensitive skin. They are easily distinguished by the presence in the composition of the enzymes papaya and pineapple (and more specifically - papain), which are extremely popular and are effective in the composition of modern means for home and professional care. Enzymes work only in the presence of warm water, so one should not allow the enzyme peeling to cool or dry on the skin - so in such conditions its chemical and cosmetic activity stops completely.
In case of hypersensitivity and dry skin, the approach to deep cleansing should be as gentle as possible. Soft cosmetics, which do not contain solid abrasive and acidic peels based on lactic, almond or glycolic acids, are excellent as cosmetic products.
Not only oily, but even the driest skin needs deep cleansing.
Chemical peels - the most difficult type of cleansing procedures, these are acids, the most extensive group. There are no two identical chemical peels. Depending on the concentration and combination of acids, the effects can be varied, from light surface to deep intense. Here you need professional advice and individual selection, otherwise the path to beauty can be darkened by a period of rehabilitation and restoration of damaged skin. For example, in the case of oily skin, salicylic peels, in a concentration of 15-25% and glycol peels in a concentration of 30-70%, have a good cleansing and seborrhea action. For home care, glycolic, lactic and salicylic acids are most often used at a concentration of less than 5%.
From the hardware techniques can be applied ultrasonic peeling and gas-liquid peeling. The principle of ultrasonic peeling is in high-frequency vibrations, which, due to the vibration created, remove toxins, slags and sebaceous plugs from the pores. Thus, ultrasonic cleaning removes acne and comedones, smoothes facial and wrinkles. Gas-liquid peeling is a non-invasive method of contactless skin cleansing using a thin stream of water supplied to the skin under pressure. Another category of hardware techniques includes galvanic cleaning of the skin (lezincrustation), brushing, microdermabrasion and vacuum polishing of the skin.
There are also ways of deep cleansing and treatment of the skin, some combine several approaches at once. For example, a technique that combines the simultaneous use of cosmetics and apparatus. First, the skin is cleaned with an enzyme peel, which consists of three effective cleansing components: enzymes, acids and carnauba wax as an abrasive, this combination gives a delicate, but deep cleansing, stimulates skin renewal, while grinding its surface. After peeling, serum on the basis of salicylic acid and anti-inflammatory, moisturizing components is applied to the skin using a device that supplies purified hyperbaric oxygen at a pressure of 1.5 atm. So we get an oxygen-salicylic peeling, which effectively cleanses the skin and has an anti-inflammatory effect, restoring the epidermal barrier, eliminating the feeling of tightness and peeling of the skin.
By the same principle, it is possible to inject serum on the basis of retinol - vitamin A. The corrective and renewing treatment based on it levels the relief, shrinks the pores, and also returns the volume and elasticity of mature skin.
Photo: kubais - stock.adobe.com, Beauty shop