Paris Fashion Week: Damir Doma, Dries Van Noten, Rochas, Gareth Pugh and Mugler shows
From September 25 to October 3, Spring-Summer Fashion Week takes place in Paris. By tradition, Look At Me talks about the most remarkable PFW shows, demonstrates the mindboards of designers and collects comments from industry professionals. In the review of the second day - the show Damir Doma, Mugler and Gareth Pugh.
Damir doma
View collection in full
Once again, Damir Doma experiments with proportions and texture of fabric, creating, in his own words, "a new timeless classic" |
The sympathies of the designer in this season are clearly given to Japanese culture. |
The debut collection of sunglasses on the show - the result of a collaboration with the German brand Mykita |
Mudbord
Collages | Judo, kimono and japanese pilots | Helmut Lang's Deconstruction |
What critics think about the Damir Doma collection
Women's Wear Daily
Cosmopolitanism is always present in the collections of Damir Doma, a Croatian by birth, a Frenchman by place of residence
Nicole Phelps Style.com
In the past, his collections have sinned obsessive melancholy, but today's show has declared itself quite strongly
Dries van noten
View collection in full
Dries Van Nothen - one of the representatives of the "Antwerp Six" avant-garde designers of the 80s |
Van Noten describes his collection as "haute couture simplicity of casual clothing," where "everything pretends to be what it really is not." |
Lead make-up artist Chanel Peter Philips was in charge of the make-up. |
Mudbord
Painting of Lucien Freud | 1990s Grunge and Kurt Cobain | Peignoir and pajama cage |
What critics think about the Dries Van Noten collection
Mark Holgate, Vogue.com
This talented and sensitive designer carries us along into an odyssey of emotions. It seems to envelop us with comfort, but it does so in an easy, casual manner.
Thomas Adamson Denverpost.com
Dries Van Nothen, who started with the design of men's clothing, showed the best show to date, skillfully combining men's cut in the collection with a floral palette of harmonious shades
Rochas
View collection in full
Rochas previous creative director Olivier Theyskens, who relied on demicure (which affected the price of work), almost brought the fashion house to a complete ruin. |
Beach Boys Soundtrack Show |
"Youth, simplicity and romance" - Marco Dzanini commented on his show |
Mudbord
50s | Tennis | Photo by Irvin Penn |
What do critics think about the Rochas collection
Women's Wear Daily
It is difficult to unravel the general idea of this collection: due to the chaotic scatter of references, images do not add up to a single picture.
Hemish Bowles, Vogue.com
The mix of classics and silhouettes of the 50s sounds elegant in a modern way.
Nicole Phelps Style.com
Zanini obviously demonstrates his propensity for eccentricities again.
Gareth Pugh
View collection in full
Gareth Pugh - a protégé of American designer Rick Owens, who, of course, watched the triumph of his mentor from the first row |
The designer himself, giving the definition of the collection, speaks of "coarse femininity." Makeup artists are trying to convey it, making the model "tear-stained eyes", but in a bitchy little red lips |
Musical accompaniment was a vocal a cappella of Latin American singer Rebeca Del Rio. |
Mudbord
Frida Kahlo | Psychoanalysis | Cock-fights |
What do critics say about the Gareth Pugh collection
Thomas Adamson Denverpost.com
Perhaps this show was a stage of maturation of the London enfant terrible
Mugler
View collection in full
Mugler creative director Nikola Formichetti is a passionate fan of Twitter, instagram and other social networks. |
This is the fourth collection of Formicetti and Payne for the Mugler house. |
The show was the first to present a collection of bags created by Formichetti for Mugler. |
Mudbord
Installations Claes Oldenburg and Origami | Thierry Mugler Archives | Dominatrix |
What critics say about the Mugler collection
Jo-Ann Furniss,Style.com
As the Mugler House revives before our eyes, the collections are becoming more relaxed and mature.
Felipe Oliveira Baptista
View collection in full
Baptista - Former Creative Director of Lacoste |
The musical background for the show was a mix of different rhythms and styles, which was characterized by succinct swagga |
Mudbord
Graffiti and urban jungle | Camouflage | Sport and BMX |
What critics think about the Felipe Oliverla Baptista collection
Alex Veblen, Style.com
Baptista-minimalist is much stronger than the Baptista-maximalist
Women's Wear Daily
Paradoxically, but inspired by hip-hop and military aesthetics, Baptista showed his most elegant collection.
Live broadcast from Paris Fashion Week: Day 2
Paris Fashion Week: Veronique Branquinho, Cedric Charlier, Anthony Vaccarello and Aganovich shows
Paris Fashion Week: What I remember the first day
London Fashion Week: Backstage