Maxi Length: Return of Romance and Conservatism
TELLING ABOUT TRENDS FROM PODIUM which can be adapted for your wardrobe for the next six months. In this issue we understand why the chaste maxi length has returned to fashion, and skirts and dresses in the floor can be seen on all the major shows - from Louis Vuitton to Marc Jacobs.
How it all began
The length of the floor dominated women's fashion until the beginning of the last century, when women were involved in the fight for equality - including the right to wear practical and comfortable things on a par with men. By this time, the girls were fascinated by the game of tennis, pedaled the bike and called for rationality in clothes, namely, the revision of the length and cut of skirts and dresses. The last attempt to maintain the position of maxi was extremely narrow, holding down the lame skirts to the floor of Paul Poiret - in fact, the prototypes of modern pencil skirts. The silhouette of the maxi in the obtyag then considered extremely fashionable and sexy, but the test for practicality did not pass. In the 1920s, corsets lost their relevance, but the average length gained unprecedented popularity, so that maxi left only evening cocktail dresses of the Hollywood chic era. In many respects, the non-viability of floor-dressing is associated with the consumption of fabric, which required revision and strict rules in the war years. By the way, because of the length of the fabric, the length of the maxi is still more expensive than the short.
Of course, the length was also influenced by the gradual sexual emancipation of society. However, until the 1920s of the last century, the legs remained the most closed part of the body, and therefore the most erotic. Maxi is still associated with chastity and conservatism, and the return of skirts to the floor signals the corresponding attitudes in society. So, in 1968, Oscar de la Renta for Elizabeth Arden presented a lace dress to the floor and again made a maxi fashionable length, which replaced the mini. At the same time, Oscar de la Renta invented the canonical bohemian hippie bow and brought romanticism back into fashion. The theme was picked up by everyone: both ordinary hippies and designers from Yves Saint Laurent and Rosita Missoni to Bill Gibb and Ozzy Clark. It should be noted that the formation of the style of boho and the popularity of maxi was influenced by the 1965 kinohit "Doctor Zhivago", at one time received five Oscars and the same number of Golden Globes. Thanks to the Hollywood film adaptation of the famous Pasternak novel, Russian fashion had a noticeable influence on Western style of clothing: from caftans, fur coats and sheepskin coats to chokers and notorious floor-length dresses.
The 1990s were the latest bright return for skirts and maxi dresses. Then the youth subcultures invented the stern length to be worn with shoes on the platform, pigtails and cropped tops.
How long the maxi is back in fashion
Mini, midi, maxi - today they are all equal and easily get along in one collection, leaving the choice to us. However, the length in the floor in view of its impracticality is still more evening than everyday. However, this did not prevent stylists and designers from taking a fresh look at it. Among the reasons that influenced the revival of the maxi length are not only the passion of the 70s (and, as a result, the string of colorful folk-dresses at fashion weeks), but also endless references of designers to neo-romanticism and costumes in the spirit of the heroes of Game of Thrones. They are inspired by Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior, showing on long-haired models flowing skirts and maxi dresses, which they combine with sneakers and ugly shoes, then with glam platforms.
Another trigger is attention to maturity and restraint as a response to sexy outfit and the cult of youth. In a hurry, the designers take pictures of Cher, Debi Mazar and Kim Gordon in the campaigns and turn to traditionally feminine silhouettes, forcing us to be more modest. Most clearly this point of view was expressed by Chanel and Marc Jacobs.
What to wear maxi now
Floor-length skirts remain a thing for the amateur, but fashion trends, coupled with the work of stylists, are pushing to pay attention to them again. One of the best combinations is at the Louis Vuitton show: with sneakers, crop tops, T-shirts, blouses and backpacks. T by Alexander Wang, Vera Wang, Joseph and Public School are advised to “smooth out” the feminine length with masculine and everyday things. Rough shoes, platform shoes, ugly sandals, hoodie and short down jackets, demi-season jackets, bomber jackets and black leather jackets, parks and loafers will do. If the maxi seems too boring, pick a skirt of thick fabric to the floor, but with a slit from the hip.
Photo: The library of congress