10 reasons for my love: Organic cosmetics
A couple of weeks ago, we published an article “10 reasons for my hatred: Organic cosmetics” that eco-cosmetics is an overpriced thing and not everything is so simple with it. The article predictably caused a lot of polar responses, and today we publish a response opinion - the journalist and author of the beauty blog Fierce and Cute Moore Sobolev serves to defend organic matter.
Text: Moore Sobolev
Before you scold or praise organic, it is necessary to figure out what exactly this term implies. There is no official definition of organic cosmetics anywhere except for companies that certify organic products - both national, like the US Department of Agriculture (USDA), and independent, the most famous of which is French Ecocert. According to them, the main parameter of the organic product is ethical production: the plant ingredients must be grown in conditions favorable for the environment (that is, without the influence of aggressive chemical fertilizers) and the product must not be tested on animals. Also, in order that a product without conscience calls itself organic, it must not have ingredients of animal origin except those that animals themselves produce (that is, they can mow a goat), must not contain silicones, parabens, and refined products. The remaining principles are interpreted differently, depending on the severity of brand creators and certification companies.
In fact, everything that is related to "nature" is added to the "organic" pile (and often products that are organic are not perceived as such). It is assumed that the consumer of organic matter spends most of the time in the pose “dog face down”, does not eat meat, smokes bidi and has the gaze of an enlightened person. But, firstly, there is nothing marginal in the ethics of production - on the contrary, it is a global trend, which is growing every year. In the spring of this year, in the European Union, a total ban on testing cosmetic products for animals, as well as its ingredients and for importing such products, came into force; Great Britain, Belgium and the Netherlands adopted such a ban a few years ago.
Secondly, ethical and organic cosmetics is not limited to the one that received the appropriate certificates - to make them expensive and troublesome, and independent small companies simply do not go for it. Thirdly, ethical cosmetics is not limited to these small companies - there are products in the assortment of very many large brands that include organic ingredients, rather carefully read the inscriptions on jars and boxes.
Now consider the evidence of the charges on the items.
Packaging
Indeed, organic cosmetics, as a rule, have biodegradable containers - but biodegradable containers are no different from bio-decomposable. Some organic and ethical brands prefer deliberately "natural" packaging - Amala's cork lids for example are examples of this - but this does not mean that they are ugly. The brand Panpuri, for example, luxurious oriental bottles. Many organic brands choose minimalist packaging - but this is a matter of design, M.A.C. also supporters of minimalism.
Price
The world of ethical cosmetics is huge, and organic products can be found in any price range. For example, Oriflame has EcoCert certified EcoBeauty line, products of the Russian brand Natura Siberica are certified with ICEA certificate. Want a suite? Sjal and COR Silver are at your service.
Points of sale
There are really few stores selling exclusively organic cosmetics in Russia. Perhaps, only Corner and Cosmotheca shops, plus Corner of individual brands listed in the original article. But you can find ethical tools in any shopping center. The brand Caudalie makes many of its products based on organic grape water. Darphin Aromatic Elixirs, the main products of the brand, are certified by EcoCert. The Body Shop has organic lines, Kiehl's, Yves Rocher. In addition, many brands do not call themselves organic, but are natural and ethical and adhere to the principles of nature protection - in particular, Clarins, Sisley, Aveda, L'Occitane en Provence, criticized for using Lush parabens. Some of them are in the range of products that are certified as organic.
Consultants
Here I can not disagree with the author of the original source. But personnel hunger is a big problem for Russian cosmetics stores in principle (working conditions, as a rule, are very unenviable, wages are low, and turnover is high). Therefore, whatever you are going to buy yourself - red lipstick or organic cream - it is better to find out the nuances on your own, the blessed technologies are given to us just for this, and not to watch porn "VKontakte".
Allergenic ingredients
Allergy - an individual question. Essential oils are, indeed, an allergenic component - exactly like silicones (if that, the author of these lines loves both). But not all natural brands use essential oils. And, in contrast to the "classic" brands, where only the creators of Clinique were seriously concerned with the problem of allergies, the range of organic brands includes those that were specifically made by people with atopic dermatitis, acne and other skin problems: say, Clark's Botanicals and Malin + Goetz.
Efficiency
In fact, organic brands do not forget to tell us how effective their cosmetics is (and it is effective). It would be naive to assume that clients will choose the brand solely for its beautiful positioning - although, it should be noted, 95% of modern innovations come out with an emphasis on an extract of some astounding plant imagination. Organic cosmetics is not a plantain leaf from the plantain, but a product of high-tech development. And, yes, a brand of natural cream may not be suitable - just like any other.
Textures and flavors
Even within the same eco-brand - say, Melvita - you can choose for yourself both the texture and flavor for the soul. As for sensual pleasures, many global spas choose organic brands - from budget Lemongrass House to luxurious Panpuri and Amala. On the latest cosmetics, by the way, Mandarin Oriental works in New York.
Shelf life
Let's start with the fact that preservatives in cosmetics can not be - otherwise the cream will deteriorate in a week. If there are no parabens in cosmetics (and many ethical and natural brands do not receive their certificate just because of them), then there is something else there. How long a jar will live depends on the strength and type of preservative. On many natural cosmetics it is indicated that they are valid 6 months after opening - this is the minimum for which your product will not die (in fact, much longer). More often the number 12 is indicated, sometimes 24 months. Absolutely average terms.
Animal tests
Testing cosmetics and its ingredients, as well as the import and sale of animal-tested cosmetics are completely banned in the European Union since March 2013. The notorious badge with a rabbit is given only to those who do not test cosmetics on their own and do not order testing to third-party laboratories - this is part of the conditions (a clever Internet user often believes that he was the first to think of some kind of kunshtyuk, but usually it is not). Many people believe that testing on animals is “smearing cream on a rabbit's foot,” but testing, the standards of which have not changed for many years, includes, in particular, the LD50 method.
In addition, animals are wounded, where they rub the product in, pour the tested ingredients into the esophagus, drip them into the eyes - even if the product is intended solely for external use. One animal - one experience: the subject is useless after the body has been influenced. But many scientists have long opposed testing on animals (including drugs) not for ethical, but for practical reasons: the human body has a different structure than the animal, and tests often prove to be meaningless. New testing methods are much more effective - computer models and artificially grown skin cells that are identical in structure to humans.
Fanaticism
Do those consumers in organic cosmetics meet the very madmen in sandals and robes? Of course, yes. But to believe that by applying a cream with the mark "Bio" on your face, you turn into such a person - this is about the same as believing in "silicones-cause-cancer". In the end, if it seems that he was fascinated by naturalness - you can always eat a burger.
Illustrations: Masha Shishova