Ladies and gentlemen: Why clothes have no more sex
"I'm a girl. But today I feel like a boy. And then I’ll be a girl again. ”A week ago, the Vice portal released a video about a Swedish family with two children, Micah and Niko, not burdened with the need to identify with this or that gender. Mick is five years old, he was born a boy and loves to play with cars , but with pleasure wears dresses and long hair - he likes it better. Parents worry about one thing: how peers react to their children when they go to school. However, considering that Sweden is one of the most progressive and tolerant countries (since 1998, rule elstvo banned children to schools impose any gender stereotypes, and from 2015-th in the dictionary was officially introduced neutral pronoun "hen"), for the future of Miki and Nico do not worry.
On Tae:
jacket, pants, shirt - all Delada (KM20); dior sandals
The modern world, it seems, has recognized: it is not the sex that is attributed to you at birth that matters, but who do you feel yourself to be - a boy, a girl, or none at all. A clear gender classification, which for centuries has defined social roles and the appropriate appearance, has now been questioned.
Facebook now allows users to choose their gender from seventy-one options, National Geographic magazine devotes the number of the gender revolution, calling it historical, and celebrities like Miley Cyrus and Ruby Rose refuse to try on the categories of "man" or "woman". In other words, modern society - with a different, true, speed - is becoming more and more confident in simple thought: there are no more rules, as there should or should not be, except for those that each person sets for himself.
On Tae:
Ann Demeulemeester shirt (AIR Moscow); Versace pants; dior sandals
On Tae:
Dior briefs, H & M T-shirt
The usual gender differentiation of a variety of products - from dresses and suits to toothbrushes - has long remained a tool for marketers.
Habitual gender differentiation of various goods - from dresses and suits to toothbrushes - has long remained a tool for marketers: it is much easier to sell a piece, assuring a potential buyer that it will make you “feel like a real man” or “is necessary for every woman.” The clothing industry was concerned, not least of all: a broad-shouldered trouser suit was strongly associated with masculinity, and, say, a fitted dress — on the contrary, with femininity. That is, "femininity" or "masculinity" just went in a package with the appropriate outfit.
On Tae:
jumper, jacket, pants, glasses - all Prada; Casadei boots
The tendency to expand the "boundaries of masculinity" in the men's wardrobe was first outlined in the late 1960s - early 1970s. True, progressive hippie ideas about the futility of dividing clothes into masculine and feminine or eccentric images of glam rockers did not go to the people. Gender-neutral fashion was seriously spoken about only in 2014, when erasing borders became a global phenomenon. The aghenderism, which nullifies the traditional rules of "male" and "female" wardrobes, has for the first time become widespread. The archaic rules like "pink and ruffles for girls only, and pants and baggy things for boys" no longer work. Alessandro Michele during Gucci shows, without batting an eye, dresses both boys and girls in blouses with bows and colorful two-piece suits. 80% of things in the collections of Vetements in principle do not have a gender registry - whoever wants, he wears.
On Egor:
Longchamp sweater
As the creative director of Saint Laurent, Edie Slimane very convincingly transmitted the brand image he created: women dressed like men and men like women. Maison Margiela in her lookbook of the women's cruise collection of 2016 demonstrate the model androgyne of Roan Loach - in the pictures it shows only the bushy vegetation on the legs. Shane Oliver built his own, however, already defunct brand Hood By Air on the idea of an aggenerative fashion and successfully develops it already as creative director of Helmut Lang.
The Selfridges department store in 2015 took the initiative to open Agender's corner - "places where fashion is not divided into men's and women's" - so that customers who are used to wearing things that do not correspond to their gender do not feel the slanting views of visitors. Refinery29 is the curator of the discussion on what is gender fashion - a fleeting trend or a full-fledged movement, while LGBT oriented resource Pride publishes a selection of seventeen clothing brands that say no to gender separation. Former creative director Ermenegildo Zegna and one of the most prominent designers of our time, Stefano Pilati, finally launches a brand named after himself, and the entire first collection is entirely spit in the face of public ideas about what men's clothing should be.
On Tae:
Dior shirt
On Egor:
jacket A Tentative Atelier (Leform)
On Tae:
Balenciaga coat (SVMoscow); Uniqlo pants; Vagabond shoes; cap - property stylist
People are inspired by the ideas of gender clothing, and the guys in skirts or with ribbons with flowers tied around the neck gradually stop appearing sensational.
On the request for the "agender fashion", Google provides approximately seventeen million links - it seems that this is really more than just a fashionable piece with a short shelf life. Without even noticing it, people are imbued with ideas of gender clothing, and the guys in skirts or with ribbons with flowers tied around the neck gradually stop appearing to be a sensation.
We have come to understand that in the modern world a woman may well assume the role of a career woman, and a man can assume an exemplary householder if both parties are satisfied with everything. So why don't we accept possible castling in clothes? Women, as never before, have advanced in the struggle for their rights and identity. But men were automatically given the freedom to choose (by the way, it is not necessary to change clothes). Clothing is still an important tool for self-representation, but it is no longer necessary to endow one or another item of clothing with qualities like femininity or masculinity. The world has ceased to be gender-binary - now we have a choice of at least several dozen options.
On Tae:
Chanel jacket; Glasses Dolce & Gabbana
PRODUCER: Katya Starostina
PHOTO: Dmitry Cherny
STYLE: Irina Dubina
WOORSTKA: Dasha Chertanova
MAKEUP: Fariza Rodriguez
STYLIST ASSISTANT: Aliya Borovik
MODELS: Taya (Jugendmodel), Egor (NIK Model Management)
ADDRESSES:
KM 20: Kuznetsky Most, 20, tel. +7 (495) 623-78-88 en.km20.ru TsUM: Petrovka, 2, tel. +7 (495) 933-73-00 Prada: Bolshaya Dmitrovka, 20, p. 1, tel. +7 (495) 626-51-61 Miu Miu: Stoleshnikov per., 9, tel. +7 (495) 258-33-53 Dior: Stoleshnikov per., 8, tel. +7 (495) 745-80-10 SVMoscow: Malaya Molchanovka, 6, tel. +7 (495) 215-53-51 Kursovoy: Kursovoy per., 8 / 2B, tel. +7 (495) 627-69-11 AIR Moscow: Teatralny pr-d, 3, p. 4, tel. +7 (495) 621-78-91 Leform: Dmitrovsky per., 7, tel. +7 (495) 660-02-80 Uniqlo: Shopping Center "European", +7 (499) 551-52-77 Vagabond: Shopping center "Metropolis", Leningradskoye sh. 16A, p. 4, Moscow, 125171, +7 (495) 660-88-88
