Camouflage in the autumn-winter collections

In a constant heading Wonderzine talks about trends from the podium that can be adapted for your wardrobe for the next six months. In this issue we understand how designers offer camouflage for girls, which until recently was considered the prerogative of men's wardrobe.

How it all began

Camouflage appeared recently - at the beginning of the last century. The print, the name of which is derived from the French camoufler ("mask"), was invented (yes-yes) by the military to protect soldiers from air attacks and bullets. It is believed that the creation of this pattern was inspired by the cubists and tromplay, that is, a technique in art that helps to deceive the eyes. In wartime, camouflage was painted by artists - including the author of "American Gothic" Grant Wood and Jacques Villon. Studying the features of view, the military invented more and more new types of prints: from Woodland, popular among the troops in Ghana, Liberia and Zambia, they switched to Tigerstripe (Vietnam) and Chocolate chip (Egypt).

It is not surprising that the fashion industry began to exploit camouflage during the war. So, the American Vogue talked about the importance and convenience of the print back in 1943, and then wrote about it in 1971 - as a drawing that a city girl can combine with skirts and jeans in basic colors. The adept camouflage for Andy Warhol’s daily wardrobe is responsible for this: in the 1960s, he painted camouflage patterns in different shades, and designer Stephen Sprouse used them to create clothes. New wave of popularity gained camouflage in the 1990s. Then he was worn by both sides of the mods: the guys from the group 'N Sync, and fans of grunge fashion. In recent seasons, camouflage was considered a print for guys: he appeared in the men's collections of Dries van Nothen, Kenzo and Valentino, not to mention the numerous military hoodies from streetwear brands like Huf and Stussy. But when the print began to be painted in colors that are more typical for women's wardrobe (the same pink and blue), it became obvious to everyone that soon camouflage would flash in the collections for women.

How to wear camouflage

In stores you can always find a classic version of camouflage, but if you want to go further, pay attention to its interpretation in different materials and textures. Some designers create camouflage from those materials that were not associated with it before. So, Michael Kors and Phillip Lim show camouflage fur coats: the first one dyes the fur in white, blue and black, and the second one connects colored pieces of rabbit fur to each other. Fendi also makes coats of pink-purple camouflage fur and adds camouflage skirts to them like sheepskin. Another material here is denim: tops, pants and dresses from all shades of jeans, folded into camouflage, are in the collection of young Marques'Almeida Londoners. Camouflage prints are now painted in unconventional colors for this picture: Carven in pink and blue, Christopher Kane in blue, gray and blue, and Ksenia Schnaider in blue and black.

BEWARE!

Beware (here the word is best suited) camouflage in its classic sense - in green and black colors, especially if it is applied to military-style clothing like parks or trousers with pockets. If you still want to wear a print of this kind, combine it not with things in the grunge spirit, but with something classic and elegant - even with a concise suit in the men's style.