Author! Author! 20 famous perfumers: the second five

This man managed to work on a huge number of perfume companies: collaborated with Roure, Takasago, Florasynth, Creations aromatiques, and currently serves in Robertet. He explains such inconstancy by the fact that he works not for the sake of profit, but for the sake of creativity. As soon as there is less creativity and more pressure from the corporation, Almarak leaves the company and seeks freedom in a new place. By creativity, in particular, he understands the ability to work with the right raw materials and use the right (but, from the company's point of view, often too expensive) components, without which, according to him, it “just dries up”. At the same time, Almarak is not a fan of “mix in more,” and is rather constant in his passions: “Good dishes are most often prepared according to simple recipes.” He likes cooking, by the way, and he is no less virtuoso in the kitchen than in the laboratory. Of his culinary creations most proud of onion soup, from the perfumery - Casmir de Chopard. I like his weighty, juicy and almost materially heavy Gucci pour Homme and Gucci Rush. He created many of the flavors of Bondinians (Bond N9) - Fire Island, Scent of Peace, West Side. And for my favorite "perfumery artisans" (L'Artisan Parfumeur) - Voluer de Roses.

Many would erect this girl a monument for only one fragrance she created - J'adore Dior. This was her first job for the Dior brand. She was inspired, according to her, by the bouquets that were painted on her canvases by the painters of the Flemish school and - again - by cooking: her grandmother was preparing a plum liqueur, adding lemon zest to her wine, and in childhood she thought that there was nothing tastier in the world. (By the way, the grandmother was an emigrant from Russia, as was the grandfather.) In an attempt to revive this crazy smell, Kalis mixed all the flower extracts that came into her head - violets, roses, orchids, jasmine, until it finally dawned that Arabian jasmine carries all the aromas of all colors. He became the basis of the composition. And J'adore Dior has become the best-selling market for a good five years. Other flavors of Calis Becker - A Taste of Heaven, Back to Black Aphrodisiac, Love, Pure Oud (all for By Kilian), Secret Obsession Calvin Klein and Beyond Paradise (for both men and women) for Estee Lauder are a big hit J 'adore was not repeated, but I personally like A Taste of Heaven and L'Ceuvre ou Noir by Killian no less.

A rare exception in the perfume world: Carlos Benyam was born not in Grasse, but in Tangier, in Morocco. And it does not live in Paris, but in New York. In 2004, he received the Lifetime Achievement Award from the American Society of Perfumers — and deservedly so. Carlos never pretended that he was interested in sophisticated niche scents not for everyone, and always created the most interesting box office fragrances that brought his clients both money and fame. The first and most famous of them - Polo Ralph Lauren, released in 1978. Subsequently, Polo Blue, Bvlgari Jasmin Noir (2008, together with Sophie Labe) appeared, various variations on Calvin Klein's favorite themes - brightness, lightness, brevity - CK in 2U her, Contradiction for men. Eternity for men, Eternity Summer for men and numerous Euphoria. He, a Moroccan living in New York, created fragrances even for a very French Givenchy brand - Very Irresistible (albeit in collaboration with Sophie Labe and Domenic Ropion). Benyam also has some pretty interesting scents for Prada - Prada Tender and Eau de Parfume. And if you like Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb and their latest Eau Mega, then keep in mind that Beniu has also put his hand to them - and his nose, knowing exactly what humankind will want to smell like in the next season.

Woman legend: 35 years in the industry, father - supplier of raw materials for perfumery, her ex-husband and brother also work in this business, her son finishes ISIPCA (the highest perfumery school) students' darkness, hundreds of fantastically successful or at least forever memorable aromas and at the same time excellent sense of humor. It, by the way, is sometimes manifested in her creations, but in order to catch them, you must have this very feeling yourself - and also, of course, a trained sense of smell. Francoise Caron often has fun with oranges, sometimes just for fun she adds them to her flavors - it seems that orange does not even smell, but invigorates. Her first masterpiece is Eau d'Orange Verte for Hermes, 1979th. Then came Kenzo for Women, Gio Giorgio Armani and, finally, - here she was finally appreciated by the advanced informals - Red: Comme des Garcons Series 2, Rose and Palisander Comme des Garcons Series 2. Next: Iris Nobile Eau de Toilette for Aqua di Parma (in collaboration with Francis Kurkjan) , Angel Violet for Thierry Mugler, Azzaro Onix, Azzaro Silver Black and my favorite Fleur d'Oranger for Le Labo. If you have not tried it yet, then it must be urgently replenished.

Having worked as a colleague of Jacques Polzha and a regular perfumer Chanel for about 30 years, Demashi did something at least incredible: in 2006, he left Chanel at LVMH and now works for Dior, Guerlain, Kenzo, and Givenchy. It is easy to understand it: the aromas of Chanel they worked with Polzha for a couple, but the world knew only Polzha. But Demashi didn’t know, although he didn’t just sit idly before going to Chanel: in the 1980s, without being engaged by a great brand, François created strong Ombre de la Nuit, Ungaro pour Homme and Diva for Ungaro which, from my point of view, are worthy of at least remembering. Well, the perfumer, of course, too. Then the years of Chanel were pulled, for which Demachi (in collaboration with Polzhem) worked for the benefit of the employer. And sometimes he came up with something for Bourjois, Chanel's younger brother, but the scale of the task set clearly did not coincide with the scale of ambition and talent. After escaping LVMH, Demachy published and reissued Dior Homme Cologne (2007), Dior Fahrenheit 32 (2007) in collaboration with Louise Turner, Dior Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir (2007), Midnight Poison (also co-authored with Oliver Cresp and Jacques Kavalier) several flavors for Pucci and Aqua di Parma. Finally, the last launch and last hope of Dior - the new Eau Sauvage - was also created with the active participation of Demachy. Something tells me that it will not be limited to reprinting the past and he will show himself.

^{Yana Zubtsova worked for 15 years as the beauty director of the magazines Domovoy and Harpers Bazaar, was a feature editor at Vogue, during her career she visited about 1869 presentations of new perfumes and interviewed almost all of the main perfumers of modern times. Despite the vast experience in the field of perfume industry (both positive and negative), loves fragrances. He is currently Deputy Editor-in-Chief of Sex & The City magazine.}