One hundred in one: Makeup artists on how to use cosmetics for other purposes
One of the main trendsModern make-up art is that any tool and texture can be used in a mass of ways. If our face is a canvas, then why not take cosmetics in the first place as paints? We talked to make-up artists, practicing a bold modern style, about how lipsticks, pigments and highlighters become versatile and multitasking in their own practice.
Shadows I often use as a lipstick, a sculptor, and lipstick as a blush and a shadow. But the most universal product is, of course, pigments. The most multifunctional thing that can only be: these are shadows, and highlighter, and anything that is enough for your imagination. You can mix them with lip gloss and get lipstick, and thanks to the pigments you can create mascara of any color. Today we have a huge selection of products with which to experiment, and the industry is developing very rapidly, so it is interesting to follow what will happen next.
highlighter dry for more pronounced glow and unexpected shade. In general, all the cosmetics that I use in my work should, above all, be convenient and comfortable for me personally. But sometimes as part of an experiment or in the event that something important was not at hand, you might think and use products for other purposes. For example, instead of a tone, try applying a facial corrector mixed with oil or moisturizer on your face. Beautiful red blush turns into shadows without any problems. As a shadow (or a base for them) I like to use matte, fixed lipstick or tint; As a rule, it is MAC or Cailyn.
I am trying to maximize the potential of the product, even in my own cosmetic bag. This is especially convenient when traveling when you need to collect versatile products in a small case. For example, I apply bronzing powder on cheekbones and eyelids as shadows — beautiful sculpture is obtained. An unobvious plus of such make-up is also in the fact that it will surely be harmonious due to the use of one color. I like to use lipstick as a rouge. In general, monochrome makeup is one of the main trends of the season. I like to look at cosmetics in a new way: and the working case becomes easier, and there is always an opportunity to surprise your customers.
Of course, various highlighters (both cream and dry) are also able to serve for different purposes. With their help, you can highlight the skin or create highlights on the eyelids and lips. One of the main products for me is Becca Beach Tint. I love it in the shade of Watermelon and can not imagine what can be compared with it. It is so beautiful, noble and invisible on the skin shade, that it is them that I can do almost all my makeup. Most often, I put it on my lips and use it as a blush. And the rouge-soufflé of the same brand in the fig shade is generally everywhere: they can be shadows, and also look great on the lips and cheekbones. Often I put dry highlighters on the eyelid, especially successfully they shade blue eyes.
One of the most versatile products is Make Up For Ever Flash Palette, a palette of twelve cream pigments. With it, I can create absolutely any color. There is a legendary story about makeup artist Roshard: once his luggage did not fly with him to the country where he was supposed to work, but quite accidentally he had this palette in his hand luggage. He had no choice but to try to create makeup only with its help. The experiment was a success, since the shades from this palette can even serve as a tonal basis. I really like what is happening in the fashion and beauty industry. This is a move towards abandonment of luxury, simplification in everything. Many brands create universal products, makeup becomes different. Modern beauty is first of all the refusal of excesses.
leave a matte texture, depending on what looks best. Recently, I increasingly use persistent matte lipstick to draw arrows and other types of eye makeup, especially attracted by the wet Smokey. Persistent lipsticks, as a rule, are a very good basis for the further application of a transparent shine on the eyelid: you can be sure that the makeup will not run away. Let me remind you that not all products are suitable for application in the eye area, but, for example, Jeffree Star and LASplash lipsticks are safe in this regard.
In general, I like the trend towards universality more and more. Even my everyday make-up has become easier and faster thanks to cosmetics in sticks: blush, which can be applied not only on cheeks, but also on lips, highlighters, eye shadow - all this is very quickly frowned with your fingers, and makeup does not take much time. In addition, all these products are often small in size and take up much less space than large powder boxes and palettes.
on lips saturated with balm, achieving a dense and saturated matte color. And if you need a lively and sensual berry color, I combine two shades: a transparent peach shine in the center of the lips with a shade of dry fuchsia pigment. They can also neatly create a blush. These filming tricks migrated to my daily make-up. When I'm lazy to get my favorite Kryolan Pearl highlighter out of the case - I apply lip balm instead. Sometimes I comb and fix eyebrows with hairspray. It happens that all the makeup is done with a single product, for example NYX eyebrow lipstick. A make-up artist can get the desired shade by mixing it from several, and create the desired texture from those products that are on hand. Therefore, there is no need to buy the entire range of Lime Crime and Pat McGrath Labs. But I love the novelties for the manufacturability of textures, for durability and ease of application, for an exact hit in the color, which speeds up the heartbeat.
Universal products really make life easier: they are easy to use even on the run, do not take much time in feathering, help create a trendy monochrome effect, and are also ideal for "makeup without makeup." They reflect modernity: the frantic rhythm of city life, an interest in natural beauty, and environmental issues. Modern girls often put makeup on a taxi, and do not sit for hours at the dressing table with a set of brushes and a bunch of jars. Such a solid approach requires a lot of time, attitude and skills, and the result is often too deliberate, which, in my opinion, is not very modern. Another thing - universal sticks that can be applied with your fingers. My favorites are Milk Caramel Color for easy sculpting and the absolutely versatile Сlinique Amp'd Up Apple. Especially good is the shade of Rubens, if applied to the lips, cheekbones and eyelids - very much goes to the owners of dark skin and contrasting appearance.
focus on the eyes. With eyes in general, you need to be especially careful and choose only the cosmetics that is intended for them: what is good for the lips can be bad for the mucous. With all the rest options are possible. You just need to know about the durability of cosmetics and its other properties: it is oily or dry base, what is its pigmentation, how it interacts with other means and how it looks on the skin as a result. When you understand what the task is, and evaluate the cosmetics on all these criteria, there will be a couple of options. For example, a persistent blush can be made with tint, and persistent lipstick, and cream blush - if you fix them later. Smokey - suitable for eyelids lipstick, eye shadow, dry or cream pigment. In general, the algorithm of working with cosmetics is as follows: understand the task of makeup, clarify the allergenicity of cosmetics and how resistant it should be, and only then choose the means.
Two examples from our recent shoot for Buro 24/7. Polina, I glued poppy petals on my face. There was not much time on the frame, the models just had to stand, so the lip gloss went to work: he kept the petals well and then it was very easy to remove it. But I glued glitter to Lisa on the face with glue for false eyelashes, and this was not the best solution: glitters are washed out so badly, and even more so with glue. Lip gloss would have come up better, because then we had a few more shots that we couldn’t completely wash out the sequins. But in the frame of this, fortunately, was not visible.
PHOTO: Cailyn, MAC, NARS, Make Up For Ever, Becca, Jeffree Star, LASplash, Milk Makeup, Сlinique, Pudra