From dress-cake to jeans: How wedding fashion has changed
The attitude to the institution of marriage is changing before our eyes, But the wedding is still considered one of the few events in life, for which it is not a pity for money. Thanks to pop culture, it is customary to present the celebration as lush as the bridesmaid dress, which often becomes a weighty item of expenditure. Most articles in glossy magazines are aimed at maintaining this tradition, and the organization of weddings, even in a crisis, remains a stable business with huge payouts for the most basic services. However, the policy of conscious consumption gradually penetrates into this area: many newlyweds understand that it is better to buy a car or invest in housing. More and more couples choose modest holidays in a narrow circle of loved ones, and instead of a dress made from a ton of taffeta, lace and sateen, it is simple and comfortable, which will come in handy more than once in a lifetime. We describe how the wedding fashion was formed and how things are with it now.
Update: This material is a statement of the various trends in the wedding fashion, but a number of statements in it look like an ultimatum condemnation of certain trends and specific styles. We apologize to all those who were affected by the intonation and the presentation of information in the article, we recognize our wrongfulness in the choice of expressions and sincerely support freedom of choice, including in the style of the wedding dress. Any dress is beautiful if you feel good with him - and not just on your wedding day.
How did white color become wedding?
The idea of the color of a wedding dress in cultures varies: for example, in Ancient Russia, as well as in China and India, brides were prescribed red dresses. In Western culture, girls simply wore the best day dress from their wardrobe to the wedding. The outfits were completely different colors: blue, brown, pink, green and even black. Blue, perhaps, was the most popular: after all, in blue robes depicting the Virgin Mary, and it was this color that was associated with integrity. Back in 1937, this cultural stereotype sat firmly in the minds: many were outraged that an American Wallis Simpson, who had been married twice, chose a blue outfit for marrying Edward VIII.
White color entered the European wedding fashion in 1840 after the wedding of English Queen Victoria, which was widely covered by the press. Victoria's white dress was decorated with orange flowers and lace, followed by a five-meter trail. In the wake of the industrial revolution in England, economic growth and the formation of a middle class, more and more British families wanted to match and imitate the queen by ordering similar luxurious snow-white outfits. However, a white dress for a long time cramped cream and beige. Gradually, however, thanks to the influence of pop culture and the film industry (including black and white cinema), white became the ultimate symbol of the wedding celebration.
Why do we need a veil?
The appearance of the veil in a wedding dress was filled primarily with sacred meaning. The veil has symbolized virginity and purity since ancient times, as well as protecting the vulnerable bride from the evil eye and evil spirits. In ancient Russia, the face of the bride was completely covered with a thick handkerchief: the bride and groom did not see each other during the ceremony. It was believed that the oaths were given before the inner, and not the outer beauty of the bride, and the tradition to cover her face with a veil gave rise to a lot of plots and legends about a fake bride. There was another important significance of the ceremony: if a man raised the veil, the bride fully submitted to him, but if she herself - this meant her independence. Today the veil is a tribute to traditions, an optional, but spectacular detail, which is increasingly being replaced with a wreath of flowers.
When did the fluffy dresses come to the floor?
Pomp and luxury have always been key criteria for a wedding dress: it was the hallmark of the family, demonstrated wealth. Hence, expensive embroidery, precious stones, rich fabrics and a long veil loop indicating the status of the ceremony. It must be said, traditions to demonstrate their social weight and prestige with the help of wide wedding gestures are still strong.
It is not surprising that the most popular style of a wedding dress is a magnificent crinoline with a fitted corset and bodice. He became the benchmark thanks to royal weddings: it is assumed that every girl dreams to be a “princess” at least once in her life. In addition, the magnificent dress contains an unambiguous hint: the more fabric and decor is spent on it, the more it is supposedly more expensive (which, of course, is not at all the case). In the 20th century, two “legendary” ceremonies set the “perfect” wedding: the marriage of the movie star Grace Kelly to the Prince of Monaco in 1956 and Lady Diana in 1981. The dresses of both brides were incredibly expensive, with a lush crinoline, a corset, decorated with lace, pearls and a long train. For the Grace dress, 23 meters of heavy silk, 90 meters of tulle, 23 meters of taffeta and 275 meters of old Brussels lace were used. It cost, according to various sources, in the amount of from 60 to 300 thousand dollars. The dress came up with Helen Rose, costume designer, known for her work for the films "Evil and Beautiful" and "I will cry tomorrow." After the ceremony in the mid-50s, there was a boom in lush wedding attire with lace throat and gloves.
Supported the fashion for the magnificent dress "wedding of the century" Lady Diana. Designers David and Elizabeth Emmanuel were faced with the task of sewing a dress that will remain in history, and they coped with it. The stunning eight-meter train was the longest history of royal weddings in Britain: as many as three minutes of live 750 million people watched the train stretch along the red stairs after Diana. The dress was traditionally embroidered with pearls and lace, but, importantly, made in the fashion of the 80s - with voluminous sleeves and a collar with frill.
How did wedding fashion change in the 20th century?
Wedding fashion has always reflected the current everyday. For example, in the 20s, with the abolition of corsets, branded flowing dresses Madeleine Vionnet became fashionable. This fashion was followed even by the constructivist Charles James, showing the wedding dress- "mermaid", "flowing" on the figure. The revolution made, of course, and Coco Chanel. She proposed a shortened version of the knee-length wedding dress, more practical and in the spirit of the times. I must say that in the 20s and 30s, instead of veils, girls chose hats or headbands embroidered with pearls according to the fashion of the flappers. In the 50s, in addition to the Cinderella's crinolines, luxurious ballerina-style ballet dresses, new look, entered the floor in wedding fashion.
In the 60s, brides were choosing trapezoidal short dresses, a baby doll, as well as balloon dresses and hairstyles with a fleece - remember Priscilla Presley’s iconic outfit of 1967, which Elvis didn’t like. In the 70s, of course, boho-style maxi-length dresses and wreaths in hair instead of veils are in fashion. The 80s showed perhaps one of the most stylish wedding dresses with voluminous sleeves and lush ruffles: everyone wore them, including Lady Diana and Brigitte Nielsen. By the way, today on eBay you can find many vintage versions of the time. In the late nineties, the cult romcom Runaway Bride came out, presenting a completely new image: on the movie billboard, Julia Roberts adorned in a lush dress with open shoulders and sneakers, which any fashionist would envy today.
What unusual outfits went down in history?
Of course, the most extravagant wedding dresses were those that destroyed stereotypes about the appropriate color and style. First, colored: from Catherine Deneuve's dark dress (fiance David Bailey was at the ceremony and wearing sweaters and jeans) and Dita Von Teese's purple dress by Vivienne Westwood to Gwen Stefani's choice - John Galliano's dress with a gradient from white to bright pink . This could also include yellow and green dresses from various Elizabeth Taylor weddings. In addition, the history of wedding fashion diversified a short pale pink dress and scarf instead of a veil at the second wedding Audrey Hepburn, double-breasted jacket Mia Farrow, brown dress with buttons Marilyn Monroe. This is not to mention the iconic white tuxedo and midi skirt Bianca Jagger, jeans and white sneakers at the wedding of Yoko Ono and John Lennon. Celebrities were not afraid to wear everyday things to the wedding, in which they were comfortable.
Modern stars, choosing a non-trivial path, also become part of history. For example, a translucent wedding dress on thin straps Kate Moss is exhibited in the Victoria and Albert Museum, along with outfits from the beginning of the century. In 2013, the press attention was attracted by Kira Knightley's short light gray dress, she wore it with a tweed jacket, a wreath and black glasses. We can not say about the fresh look of Solange Knowles: a year ago she chose a minimalist cut jumpsuit with a deep neckline, did without a veil and rode on a bicycle during the celebration.
Why do pompous dresses go out of fashion?
Most glossy magazines still appeal to the fact that the wedding dress should be special, luxurious, incredible, expensive. Ideally - with a bodice embroidered with stones, a crown on the head, a long veil and a fur cape (not necessarily only in winter). Ateliers, as a rule, offer the same type of “princess” dresses: on a corset with a full skirt or a “little mermaid” with a long train of inexpensive materials. Not all of them look adequate in Russian realities.
Attitude to marriage becomes easier, and to the wedding fashion too. Today, the institution of marriage itself is undergoing changes: many have recognized that the wedding is not necessarily the lot of the young, and is even optional, it is possible more than once in life and between partners of either sex. Fashion is always responsive to such changes. Mature couples are not often adorn on the covers of wedding magazines, but Julianne Moore, Paul McCartney's wife Nancy Shevell or Amal Alamuddin are a good example - they choose elegant clothes of different styles and shades.
Bulky dresses no longer correspond to the rhythm of time and events, and sometimes they completely contradict common sense - shouldn't you go to the toilet with assistants? But today you can safely put on a wedding beautiful sneakers, sneakers and even jeans and a simple T-shirt, as an alternative to the dress, choose a jumpsuit, an elegant tuxedo (color or white), trousers with a top or just a blouse with a skirt. There is nothing wrong with looking for a vintage dress on eBay - if you are not too superstitious.
What dress to choose for a wedding in 2015?
Instead of ordering a princess dress of the same type copied from Vera Wong or Marchesa's shows at Bridal Fashion Week, you should better look at neat, elegant dresses that you can wear after the wedding - or invest in accessories and shoes. Sew a concise dress in the studio is much easier - you only need a piece of expensive silk or taffeta. Various fashion brands include from season to season suitable, corresponding to modern realities styles.
"Less is more" for weddings and dresses is now the best concept. White or cream, without heavy parts, but a flawlessly tailored dress can be called a benchmark in 2015. The selection of shoes today is also huge. Christian Dior and Balenciaga combine minimalistic dress with pointy ballet flats; Calvin Klein and Whistles - with platform shoes; Akris and Erdem - with boots; Giambattista Valli - with sandals on a thin strap. Not to mention the same sneakers. Chalayan combine dress with bare shoulders with sandals. Special attention is given to the dress from the latest couture display by Christian Dior: translucent, free cut, with elegant cuffs and floor-length in combination with fashionable sandals on the platform. By the way, the style largely depends on the venue of the event. Say, such options will look appropriate at a wedding in the city with a continuation in the restaurant. If your holiday takes place in the heat on the beach, then a tank top dress or a short dress made of light fabric and comfortable beautiful sandals will be perfect.
If I still want a princess dress, what should I do?
A dress with a fluffy skirt made of taffeta or thin organza may look fashionable and not archaic, if you stop at the length of the knee and think over styling. The more elegant and lush the dress, the better it looks with a hairstyle with natural curls and barely noticeable makeup - everything is better than looking like a "raffaello" candy. A good example of a fluffy dress is the translucent dress shirt Rochas in combination with unusual boats. Christopher Caine makes the taffeta dress quite short. Simone Rocha concentrates on an elegant cut and carefully uses baroque fabric. Giambattista Valli remain true to the length of the maxi, but are not afraid to combine a fluffy dress with a jacket. British Molly Goddard, who showed the ASOS wedding capsular collection, creates "ballerina" dresses and leaves room for their multi-layered combination with other things: the dress can be worn even over shorts.
Do not get tired of repeating: remember about comfort. Instead of changing two or three times, it is better to choose something beautiful and comfortable and enjoy the holiday. Be realistic and do not put the purchase of a wedding dress at the head of the whole event.
Photo: Rex Features / Fotodom (2), Wikipedia, Shutterstock
