The best thing that happened at Milan Fashion Week
Olesya Iva
September is a hot time for the fashion industry: one after another are the main world fashion weeks. We have already talked about the most interesting shows and moments of weeks in New York and London. Now it's time to remember the best thing that happened in Milan.
Barbie Moschino Show
Amateur pop culture Jeremy Scott continues to work with the main symbols of the modern era. When guests of the first row found in their places gifts in the form of Barbie dolls and pink mirror covers for the fifth iPhone, it immediately became clear what to expect from the new show. The first Moschino collection was inspired by Spanch Bob, fast food and McDonald's in particular, the second and the new one - Barbie doll - a toy standard of non-existent feminine beauty. Under the soundtrack, which consists of Aqua "Barbie Girl" and Stacey Q "Two of Hearts", Barbie girls in sportswear à la Juicy Couture, pink jackets and mini-skirts, pink microfilm, skirts and jackets from terry cloth, plastic bras-tops, and also in glasses-hearts, mules, just like toy, multi-layered dresses, bulky plastic belts-chains and hippie earrings. In addition, the designer's girlfriend, an American model, Charlotte Free, dressed in pink microshorts and bikinis, rode the catwalk on the catwalk. The collection turned out retrospective and resembles the 1999 designer's pink collection. Jeremy did another important thing - in the end he canceled seasonality. Things from the new collection went on sale immediately after the show. Indeed, why wait another six months? So, the sweaters, studded with pink inscriptions "Moschino", and the fuchsia leather jackets filled the street style photos from the fashion weeks on the first day of the show.
Prada Show
We have repeatedly written that style and things in the spirit of the 70s in the future season are included in the list of the most fashionable. Stamps interpret this time differently, but Miuccia Prada is one of those designers for whom this era means more than for others. First, her youth in the period from 20 to 30 years just fell on the 70th. Secondly, it was then that Miuccia, together with her husband Patrizio Bertelli, undertook to continue the family dynasty of producing luxurious leather accessories: bags and suitcases. Accessories from Prada immediately hit the pages of Vogue, and by the end of the 80s her first line of ready-made clothes appeared. Today, everyone is hunting for Prada vintage items, but Miuccia goes further and creates just a “vintage” collection. Prada works with leather, decorative trim, expensive jacquard and brocade, leaves the edges of the clothes untreated and pays great attention to bags and shoes. Things look like Prada created them 30 years ago. The collection was shown among lilac-colored sand dunes, where models walked in clogs fashionable in the 70s, denim things with contrasting stitching, shirts with raw edges, fitted sleeveless dresses, multi-colored leather boots and suede, massive glasses, psychedelic shirts and knit jackets, A-line cloaks and brown leather skirts. Not without scandal. The 14-year-old Danish model Roos Abels participated in the show.. The case for the brand is not the first. Miu Miu has already shot 14-year-old Hayley Steinfield and 15-year-old Lindsay Wixon for campaigns, and 16-year-old Ondria Hardin for Prada. In the US, there is already a law prohibiting models under the age of 16 from participating in the show, in Europe - not yet. Suffice it to recall that Kate Moss began her career at 14.
Jil Sander Show
A year ago, Gilles Zander left for the second time the house of Jil Sander due to personal circumstances, and the FW 2014 collection was prepared by a team of full-time designers of the brand. New creative director of the brand Rodolfo Palliunga worked on the creation of the spring collection of 2015, since 2009 he has been the creative director of Vionnet and headed the women's line Prada for 10 years. The new collection balances on the verge of men's and women's fashion and is dedicated to the androgynous Swiss writer of the 20s and 30s Annemarie Schwarzenbach. Models with natural make-up stomped on the catwalk in culottes, shirts, knitted vests, midi skirts with a neckline, asymmetrical strict dresses, jackets and golf boots.
Versace show
In the new season, most Italian houses have proven that the new luxury is intelligence and modesty. Even Versace, known for its glamorous things, showed a minimalist and very "young" collection, referring to the works of Gianni Versace in 1994 and an advertising campaign, shot by Richard Avedon. So, on a transparent catwalk, models in tuxedos, crop tops, laconic sandals, skirts with a deep neckline, things from a mesh and perforated leather, graphic dresses from color blocks walked around. The collection turned out to be sexy, but rather modest and not vulgar at all, which is an infrequent event for the brand. Especially Versace succeeded costumes with asymmetrical mini skirts and trapezoidal cocktail dresses of candy colors and with transparent inserts.
Marni show
In many shows from the previous weeks of fashion - New York and London - the return of Japanese motifs was traced: Alexander Wang showed belts as from kimono, THE ROW - massive draperies from fabric, not to mention the dominance of the sandals on the platform, resembling traditional Japanese geta . Marni in the new season also work with Japanese aesthetics. On the catwalk of the soundtrack from the Kingdom of the Full Moon, Wes Anderson walked on models in coats and dresses of pure colors resembling kimonos, voluminous skirts with traditional floral prints (of course, referring to ikebana), embroidery and appliqués, as well as colored leather . Complementing the outfits were birches and sandals on the platform, as well as shoes with heels in the form of balls. In addition, the brand showed bag sacks and wooden accessories. This year, the house celebrates its 20th anniversary and, apart from showing it, organized a charity flower market in Milan, where it was possible to purchase flowers, accessories and all sorts of trivia.