What is happening with the Ukrainian fashion: Bevza SS 2014 collection

FOLLOWING THE FASHION WEEKS IN NEW YORK, LONDON, MILAN AND PARIS STARTING local shows. The first - at the Ukrainian Fashion Week, which runs from 9 to 13 October. Wonderzine fashion editor Liza Kologreeva went to events to tell about the most remarkable collections of Ukrainian designers.

We saw the Svetlana Bevza collection twice in a season: the designer participated in the Italian exhibition of Pitti Super and Paris Tranoi, where you rarely meet her colleagues from Ukraine. Bevza shows the show in the framework of the Ukrainian Fashion Week with the understanding that this is an image event for local customers and foreign buyers, who look at the history of brands. Two hours before the show, she begins to prepare models with her stylist — a model with a slightly demonic appearance — Nadya Shapoval, who helped her at the exhibitions and went on the catwalk at this show. The models have a neutral make-up and a rather unbanal hairstyle with the effect of wet hair: they are carelessly stabbed into a bun, and some of the strands are released.

Bevza show is waiting here like Céline in Paris or Prada in Milan: there are no empty seats. The show begins with a black dress, draped in the front as a towel is punctured after a shower (similar to what we saw in the brand's cruise line). Behind him are cropped tops with wraparound pencil skirts, cropped volumetric jackets with banana pants and coats that look like doctors' lab coats. Simple silhouettes are complicated by prints with a rhombus, a combination of heavy and light fabrics, such as leather and chiffon, and textures — some of the fabrics are crimped (ok, taking care of them will not be easy, but it's worth it). Bevza is one of the few Ukrainian designers who dress from head to toe. The clothes are complemented with neat silver earrings, necklaces and bracelets, black and white glossy clutches and last-season fetish - slippers, similar to home ones.

As Svetlana Bevza's friends write on Facebook, "the collection is very smooth." It seems that everything is good in it from the beginning to the end: high quality of fabrics and tailoring, unusual stylistic moves (for example, a short top is put on the dress), suitability of most things for everyday life. And undoubtedly, Bevza has developed her own style: there are few designers with minimalism as well as she, both in Ukraine and in Russia. However, the clothes that we saw have one drawback: you want to wear them a day after the show, and whether it will be just as desirable in six months is a question. The basic items of the collection — shirts and skirts with chiffon inserts or monoprint suits — are sold and bought for more than one season, and although they are clearly successful in Bevze, you expect more courage from a young designer. Maybe her responsibility to the buyers of Mood Swings and Tsvetnoy makes itself felt.