Mix, but do not shake: The whole truth about the production of creams
NOT EVERY DAY IN THE MARKET THERE ARE NEW MEANS TO CARE, and each of them claims the laurels of a unique product. But the production of cosmetics for most consumers is a mystery surrounded by many myths. Blogger Adel Miftakhova examined in detail the process of creating the cream and found out what reality is behind the catchy inscriptions on the banks and why we should not be afraid of the mysterious "chemistry".
Idea
As it happens in the case of any commercial project, the creation of the cream begins with a marketing concept, which is invented not without taking trends into account. In the case of care products, they are not so obvious (it is instagram ball in the world of decorative cosmetics), but this does not mean that they do not exist. For example, concise packaging and simple formulations, like those of the Canadian brand The Ordinary, are attractive because they emphasize efficiency. Personalized care with boosters and self-mixing kits used to be the prerogative of niche brands, and now the mass-produced brand Clarins has successfully produced such products. The fashion for “all natural” has affected even those brands that do not position themselves in this way: Kiehl's, for example, recently released a cream with manuka honey, consisting of 99.6% of natural ingredients.
Unilever PR director Anastasia Lander says that major manufacturers constantly analyze the development of the cosmetic market and follow the emergence of new products in Russia, Europe and especially Asia, where the most interesting developments have come from in recent years. Often, the latest developments and trends in skin care are born in the luxury segment, and democratic brands tend to make them accessible to more people. Trend analysis is an invaluable material: it makes it clear what and where it will be relevant in a half or two years in fashion, personal care, food, drinks, which technologies and gadgets will be at their peak. At the same time, it is important not to sacrifice the brand concept of relevance: a tool based on a fresh trend must conquer a new audience or introduce diversity into the habits and rituals of regular customers.
All that came up with the marketing department, is made in the form of good old technical specifications. There are brands that have their own laboratories, there are those who order the development of creams "on the side." But the essence is the same everywhere: first you need to explain to technologists what kind of final product the customer wants to see. First of all, the properties of the cream are prescribed: its effect, purpose, composition, active ingredients, necessary preservatives, shelf life. Wishes to texture, color, fragrance and packaging are determined. It is important to indicate which policy and audience the cream should comply with: be organic, cosmeceutical, professional or mass.
Lander says that at this stage the brand team is writing a marketing brief for developers: beauticians, sensory specialists, perfumers, designers. In the brief, in particular, the target audience is described and the psychosocial portrait of the buyer is disclosed in detail. The budget is determined: it is important for any manufacturer, both mass and luxury. On the basis of this brief, the developers are beginning to make up the formula for a new tool, to figure out what the cream will be packed in, what color it will be, how it will smell. After all this is approved by the board of directors, the cream can go into production. "On average, this entire large process takes from nine to twelve months - and this is a pretty good pace," adds Anastasia.
Formula
When creating an average cream in parallel, there are two processes: the development of the base and the selection of active ingredients. And if the cost of the base is always about the same, then the price of the active ingredients may be very different. As a rule, ingredients with efficacy proven by in vivo tests (in humans or animals) and in vitro (in laboratory cells) are more expensive than regular extracts with known properties like anti-inflammatory chamomile. More often, laboratories offer to choose ready-made formulas and simply customize them to the wishes of the customer. Cosmetic chemist Alina Baeva told us how cream is created directly in the laboratory. Baeva explains that when creating a base, manufacturers first of all have to get a stable emulsion that will be pleasant to apply: an ideal cream should be quickly absorbed, not sticky and make the skin soft.
As a rule, the base consists of water, oils, waxes, emulsifiers and texture-forming components. Emulsions are of two types: direct (oil in water) and reverse (water in oil). Oily skin is more suitable first, dry - second. Bold and dense cold cream, which is recommended for very dry skin in aggressive environmental conditions, and classic baby cream are examples of reverse emulsions. Since water and oil do not mix just like that, emulsifiers are added to the formula, which are necessary precisely in order to “bind” them.
In an unstable emulsion, the aqueous and oil phases are stratified, and the problem cannot be solved by simple mixing — one needs to refine or change the system of emulsifiers. Sometimes already ready cream from the store is stratified due to the fact that the proper mode of storage and transportation was not observed. In the preparation of a direct emulsion, water is mixed with water-soluble components, for example glycerol, propylene glycol or butylene glycol, and heated to 70-75 degrees (or higher if necessary). The oil phase, consisting of oils, waxes, emulsifiers and emollients (softening components), is also heated to 70-75 degrees or higher until complete melting of the solid components - and all this is added to the already heated aqueous phase, mixing at high speeds until complete emulsification.
If natural polymers are used in the formulation, such as, for example, gums or hyaluronic acid, you need to prepare a solution of these components in glycerin or water when heated, and then add to the aqueous phase. Here is about the same as with the preparation of jelly. Starch - a natural thickener and gelling agent - must be dissolved in water before adding to boiling water, and mixed thoroughly, otherwise lumps are formed. After obtaining a homogeneous and smooth mass, the emulsion is cooled to 35 degrees with moderate stirring. After that, it is possible to add active ingredients sensitive to high temperatures, volatile oils and fragrances. With the help of special ingredients, developers also have the opportunity to create "cold" emulsions. With a cold production method, heating is not required, the emulsification process takes place at room temperature with vigorous stirring, which makes it possible to include temperature-sensitive ingredients in the formulation at any stage of production, and also reduces the cost of water, energy and working time.
The active ingredients are what makes the cream special. After all, between the base cream and cream with extracts, the buyer is likely to choose the latter. The active ingredients in cosmetics countless: vitamins, extracts, peptides, acids. By adding different "assets" to the same base (as the developers call them), you can create a whole line of tools. It is with active components associated with the largest number of misunderstandings. According to the rules, on the packaging ingredients indicate in order of decreasing their quantity.
Alina Bayeva says that ingredients in a concentration of less than 1% are listed in random order after ingredients that are more than 1%. It is clear that this can be used and focus on ingredients that are practically absent in the cream. Of course, many ingredients work in low concentrations (the same tretinoin is effective at a concentration of 0.025%), but one thing is half a percent, and the other is half a thousandth of a percent. In addition, the active ingredients are often sensitive to the pH level, can react with other components of the cream, quickly oxidize and lose their properties. And exactly the opposite can be done with components that buyers do not really want to see in the cream. That is, the ill-fated parabens are more convenient to move to the very end of the list.
Often, the active ingredients inefficiently use brands from a very low price segment, while in cosmetics it is much more expensive to find a working product. Some brands indicate the percentage of active ingredients, which greatly facilitates the search, but, unfortunately, this is not a very common practice. On the other hand, manufacturers of mass cosmetics rarely use the active ingredients in high concentrations, because the improper use of such funds can harm the buyer. For example, selling a cream with a serious content of retinoids, it is important to convey to the consumer a lot of nuances of its use, and this is not always possible. As a result, the use of funds for the buyer can turn out to be sad consequences, and for the manufacturer - even a trial.
In addition to the base and the active ingredients in cosmetics add many other substances. Alina says: “To protect the cream from microbiological contamination, it is important to choose the right preservative or system of preservatives. They protect the product during storage and use, and without them the cream will not last a couple of days. Microorganisms can get into cosmetics from the air or with brushes and sponges, not to mention the fingers that we like to run in jars. Natural ingredients of creams - extracts, proteins, gums - create an excellent nutrient medium for microorganisms. "
By the way, the system of preservatives depends on the format of the packaging: there will be more of them in an open bank than in a package with a pump. Preservatives are divided into fungicides, which fight fungi, mold and yeast, and bactericides, aimed at eliminating bacteria. Some preservatives work simultaneously against bacteria and against fungi, such as parabens, but they suffered a media death: because of the hype, the developers now try to avoid them and even endure the large inscription "without parabens" to the most prominent place. However, preservatives are required for formulations containing water. They can be avoided except in some anhydrous products - usually sticks, powder products, high pH products (depilatory creams) or acid peels.
Alina Bayeva adds that there are components that are not required in cosmetics. Odorant is one of them: it just masks the smell of the base, which is not always pleasant. In addition, the effectiveness of the cream can not be assessed in the store, and a pleasant perfume is a plus in favor of the purchase. In natural cosmetics, the role of fragrances is often performed by essential oils, but their range is very limited, and, for example, the aromas of caramel or chocolate, not to mention more complex compositions, cannot be created with their help. Sometimes dyes and pigments are added to creams - for whiteness, for example, titanium dioxide is used. Many active ingredients and oils are oxidized when they come into contact with air and light, and to prevent this from happening, antioxidants are added to the formula - they prevent the oxidation of sensitive ingredients, so that the product retains its properties longer. Recently, technologists have been paying more and more attention to the development of new and unusual textures: the cream should not only look interesting in the package, but also give a pleasant feeling on the skin - this principle works, for example, self-foaming creams and masks.
Production
After the formula is developed, it is tested for safety and efficacy, in order to go into mass production. According to Alexander Stukalin, director of technology for the Natura Siberica brand, this is different for each company. If the company has its own production, then everything starts with the fact that technologists develop the formula in the experimental laboratory, then the first experimental samples are tested on volunteers for qualitative indicators.
Then the tool must be certified, obtain a Declaration of Conformity with the EAC technical regulations or go through state registration - for example, for funds for children it is mandatory. This process takes a couple of months. In the process of registration, the product passes through toxicological, clinical, physico-chemical, microbiological tests. Further the design is thought out, packing is made. Finally, mass production starts: technologists pass the task to the supply department, they purchase components. On production, the quality department monitors the quality of the raw materials, packaging and the final product of each batch and each delivery. He checks the physico-chemical and microbiological indicators. If the company gives the production process to the side, then the integrity of those who deal with it is important - most often the quality is followed by the partner manufacturer.
Bulk cosmetics - it is always the result of streamlined production, in which the risks are minimized. There are brands that set themselves the task of creating cosmetics with a strong and noticeable effect, but this is not to be found in the store near the house - it is more likely to be recommended by a cosmetologist. Another question is that such funds are not needed by everyone and not always. Even a very cheap cream will cope with simple moisturizing and skin protection, not to mention the fact that there are many inexpensive active ingredients that are absolutely safe to use.
