Trend: Sports items in new collections
In 1917, Vogue called on women who decided to go in for mountaineering, to change the skirt on breeches right on the top of the mountain - it is clear that at that time there was no talk of any women's clothing for playing sports. In the 1920s, there is a real revolution: girls become independent and want to catch up with men in everything, including sports. Then tennis players make a splash: in 1922, Suzanne Lenglen puts a short skirt on Wimbledon, and ten years later Alice Marble goes to the court in shorts. But it was only in the 1950s that sports equipment began to be mass produced and, by virtue of convenience, became part of everyday wardrobe. Thirty years later, fitness is a fashion catalyst, which has forced designers to turn more and more to sports topics.
Style.com editor Tim Blanks likes to repeat that fashion is sensitive to major world events. Of course, only Stephen Meisel and Italian Vogue can speculate on the explosion of the oil platform in the Gulf of Mexico. Another thing - the Olympic Games. This summer, the biggest sports competition will be held in one of the main fashion capitals - London. Obviously, that is why in the spring-summer collections elements of sports equipment play no less a role than references to the Art Deco era.
First of all, British designers turned to this trend. Stella McCartney admitted that she gained inspiration for her new collection in fitness. On the Mulberry show, the models resembled girls who, early in the morning, went for a run in a sweatshirt, training shorts and with a dog. And the duet dresses of Peter Pilotto are inspired not only by marine life, but also diving suits.
New Yorkers have a special relationship with sports: sport is at the core of more than one American brand of DNA. Tops and shorts from the spring-summer collection of sports chic Alexander Wang are borrowed from the Tour de France riders, and overalls from NASCAR riders. Chet Azria, creative directors of BCBG Max Azria, mix sport with low waist dresses from the 1920s. In the collections of Alexandre Herchcovitch and Bill Blass appear caps, like skateboarders. The influence of fitness with the naked eye is seen in the collections of Marc by Marc Jacobs and one of the rising stars of New York Fashion Week, Victoria Bartlett and her VPL brand.
One glance at the main collections of the Paris Fashion Week is enough to understand how the golfer Jordan Baker of the Great Gatsby could dress up today. Sonia Rykiel midget skirts with a small visor and pleated midi skirts, Lacoste polo and vests in a Louis Vuitton rhombus would definitely suit her. By the way, the French have a sports theme even appeared in couture: the Givenchy Haute Couture SS 2012 lookbook was filmed in the gym.
As often as in the season of SS 2012, sports items have not appeared on the podium for six years. But still designers from time to time in one way or another to them turned. For example, Fendi, Hermes and Trussardi fired on their own bicycle, and Chanel, with the filing of Karl Lagerfeld, does create a line of sports equipment each season.
In 2008, the Victoria and Albert Museum noticed a trend that is evident nowadays - a collaboration of sports brands and designers - and dedicated an entire exhibition to it. The cooperation championship is owned by Adidas: the brand has been working with Jeremy Scott and Stella McCartney for several years in a row. In addition, Rei Kawakubo made swimsuits for Speedo, and Alexander McQueen created sneakers for Puma. Obviously, not one collection of sportswear will be released before the Olympics in London - the first one is already being prepared by Adidas and Opening Ceremony.
Those brands whose collections were not inspired by sports, caught on and used this theme in their advertising campaigns. For Chanel, Saskia de Brau and Joan Smalls practiced sports equipment. In the Givenchy campaign, Gisele Bundchen posed in front of surfboards. And in the Benetton advertising with models of different nationalities and bright clothes contrasted whitewashed bicycles. In the end, a healthy lifestyle began to promote fashion publications: the British i-D, for example, devoted a winter number to proper nutrition and training.
In everyday life, street fashion blogs have migrated at least three ways to make the outfit a little more sporty. On the one hand, you can wear sneakers or sneakers with all the outfits in a row, as does the Saskia de Brau model, the journalist Susie Lau and the photographer Tamu MacPherson. You can go a safer way - wear a university jacket, which is in the new collections and Lena Vasilyeva with Victoria Beckham, and H & M. In addition, you can follow the example of Vogue.com distributor Hanneli Mustaparty, blogger Garans Dore and stylist Catherine Baba, who ride bicycles in high-heeled shoes.
Svetlana Paderinaeditor of the magazine "Fabric" and the author of the blog Svet-sezona.blogspot.com | Designers turned to sport because of the future Olympics in London - this answer would be the simplest and most superficial if the sports theme had not gained points for several seasons. This is a clear illustration of the current interests of society: a healthy lifestyle, right passions, active travel, and so on. Therefore, sport elements in fashion are just as calm and correct - this is an expensive, but inconspicuous sport chic, or sport-casual, or not at all - the unexpected introduction of sporting details into the most diverse style. I love the minimalist style with sports elements, such as stripes on simple-cut skirts, drawstrings on free blouses, or sports things in shape, but made of non-sports materials. I like to wear sneakers and semi-sneakers with anything other than jeans, and buy everyday things from sports brands like Adidas. I am not a fan of Alexander Wang, but within the framework of this trend, he is perhaps the most interestingly working. It does not simplify detailing, but, on the contrary, complicates (even loads up), but manages to maintain the necessary lightness. I love Raf Simons very much and I think that a small but expressive detail from the Jil Sander collection - an amusing knitted hat with a veil - is the most accurate expression of the modern style, sometimes adding to the unpretentious practicality unnecessary but charming retro details. In the Sonia Rykiel collection, black stripes unexpectedly cut light dresses and skirts, and Stella McCartney cleverly links feminine images and sports associations, I like that too. |
Svetlana Vorontsova-Velyaminovaeditor Vogue.ru | Designers reacted to the upcoming London Olympics in all seriousness, showing all sorts of adaptations of sportswear and using traditional sports fabrics. This trend was outlined by New York Fashion Week, and then the weeks following it were picked up. As a result, fashion editors had to learn sports terminology, and reports from the show were filled with the words urban sport and athletic chic. Final doubts about the relevance of athleticism and physical activity dispelled an avalanche of sports campaigns of the upcoming season. Gisele poses next to the pool (Versace) and the surfboard (Givenchy), Nimue Smith warming up on a treadmill (Carven), Coco Rocha runs, jumps and climbs along the walls (Longchamp). Arizona Museum in the Louis Vuitton lookout for motorcycling and roller skating, Constance Jablonsky riding a bicycle (Sonia Rykiel). Especially relevant, as it turned out, the horizontal bars and parallel bars: the models on them are practiced in the campaigns Kenzo and Chanel. The blogger Garans Dore also decided to support the trend, highlighting in his blog a place to describe yoga classes. It became clear: go shopping, fight for a place in the first row of shows and cheer for the teams of your favorite designers. Moden is not just a sport, but a sport in an elegant interpretation, its most aristocratic varieties. No baggy sweatshirts - the models resembled the baseball players from “Their own league”, then tennis players, then golf club visitors. Even pants with stripes in the Gucci and Lanvin collections look bourgeois. The best variations of the season on the topic, of course, Stella McCartney, Rag & Bone and Altuzarra. I really like this new fashion for Nike Airmax sneakers and Adidas Originals, bicycles, sports backpacks ... Another tennis shorts - one young lady from our fashion department is wearing them now. Especially cool these things look in combination with something classic, with urban clothing. For example, sports shoes with a dress like Jen Kao and Y-3. And for myself, I want sneakers on the platform that were on the Marc by Marc Jacobs show. |
