What is hyaluronic acid and why is everyone obsessed with it?
Even to a person far from the world of cosmetics it was difficult not to notice that in recent years the phrase "hyaluronic acid" sounds from each iron. At the same time, it is used in various ways in plastic and eye surgery, for the treatment of joints, in the form of injections and creams, and even drunk in the form of dietary supplements and drinks. We asked Adele Miftakhova, author of the Don't Touch My Face telegram channel, to figure out how and why hyaluronic acid conquered the world and what, in fact, is its power.
The first mention of hyaluronic acid dates back to 1934, when the biochemist Karl Meyer published an article about an extremely high molecular weight polysaccharide found in the vitreous of the eyes of cows. Since then, an enormous amount of research has been conducted on this substance, and in 2009, a monumental article was published in the specialized journal International Journal of Toxicology, summarizing the results of these studies and recognizing hyaluronic acid of any origin and its derivatives safe for use. At first, hyaluronic acid was extracted mainly from the crests of roosters and it was exclusively of animal origin. Fortunately, later several methods were discovered to synthesize hyaluronic acid in industrial volumes using bacteria that produce it under certain conditions.
Despite its name, hyaluronic acid is not an acid in its everyday sense, it does not have dissolving or exfoliating properties, such as glycolic. Hyaluronic acid itself is a natural component of the bodies of mammals, it is present in many tissues, but its greatest concentration is found in the connective tissue of the joints. In the simplest sense, hyaluronic acid is sugar, but if the molecular weight of table sugar is about 340 daltons (Yes), then hyaluronic acid is from 600 thousand to several million Da. Due to its structure and large molecular weight, its molecules are able to retain the amount of water many times greater than their own. That is why in our body hyaluronic acid performs a very important function of water conservation in the tissues, and also acts as a lubricant for the joints.
The main myth of hyaluronic acid says: the size of the molecules does not allow it to penetrate deep into the skin
In modern medicine, hyaluronic acid is recognized as an effective treatment for arthritis when it is introduced directly into the joint and is used in eye surgery to treat cataracts and replace corneas. Recently, manufacturers also produce a large number of food additives with hyaluronic acid, but its effectiveness in ingestion has not yet been proven. Since the 80s of the last century, hyaluronks (so tenderly nicknamed the substance) have been used as a cosmetic ingredient since today are mainly used in two ways: as a moisturizing component of cosmetics and as a filler for face contouring, that is, for smoothing wrinkles, imparting additional volume and correction of the shape of the lips, cheekbones and other areas of the face.
The magic of hyaluronic acid, thanks to which it became famous throughout the world, lies in its ability to attract and retain water in a way that no other substance does. Its molecule is a compound of glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine. It contains a large amount of oxygen and hydroxyl groups, which allows it to form strong hydrogen bonds with water. Simply put, each hyaluronic acid molecule is a tiny sponge that holds water, making it a unique way to moisturize skin and tissues.
However, the beneficial properties of hyaluronic acid are not limited to moisture alone. With age, our body produces less and less hyaluronic acid, this fact at one time served as a pretext for its research as an anti-aging component. Indeed, German dermatologists have noticed a significant reduction in wrinkles and an increase in skin elasticity when using hyaluronic acid gel on the skin surface. Researchers at the Center for Dermatology and Laser Cosmetology from South Carolina have also proven the effectiveness of hyaluronic acid salts in the treatment of seborrheic dermatitis and irritations. However, all these studies do not explain the main thing - how exactly hyaluronic acid treats the skin; scientists just have to figure out all the intricacies of its impact.
Against the backdrop of the increasing choice of hyaluronic lotions, creams and serums with each passing year, hyaluron has inevitably become overgrown with many myths. Thus, the most popular of them says: caring cosmetics with hyaluronic acid does not work, because the size of its molecules does not allow it to penetrate deep into the skin. And in theory, this is true. The diameter of the hyaluronic acid molecule is about 3000 nm, while the distance between the skin cells does not exceed 50 nm. However, the authors of The BeautyBrains blog say that it is not necessary for water-retaining components to penetrate the skin in order to moisturize its upper layers. To do this, they just need to be on the surface of the skin for a long time - and this will be quite enough.
Even more interesting is the fact that in 1999, the staff of the Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology at the Australian Monash University investigated the ability of hyaluronic acid to penetrate the skin in mice and in humans using a radioactive label. As a result, it was proved that hyaluronic acid molecules not only penetrate into the upper layers of the skin, but also reach the dermis, subcutaneous fatty tissue, and its traces were found even in the blood.
In recent years, scientists have developed a method for obtaining salts of hyaluronic acid - sodium hyaluronate and potassium hyaluronate. They are also sometimes called low molecular weight, or hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid. These salts are obtained by removing lipids, proteins and nucleic acids from the hyaluronic acid molecule while preserving its water-holding capacity. As a result, the size of the molecule is significantly reduced (up to 5 nm), which allows the substance to penetrate the skin more easily than regular hyaluronic acid and moisturize it at a deep level. Moreover, numerous studies of the ability of hyaluronic acid salts to penetrate the skin have proved: they are capable not only of penetrating into the deeper layers of the skin and moisturizing it, but also act as a conductor for other substances.
If the effectiveness of hyaluronka in moisturizing any type of skin is proven, then scientists still have to study its anti-aging and healing properties.
Despite the fact that hyaluronic acid and its derivatives have proven safety, in rare cases, when it is used on the skin, allergies can occur. As with any other allergic reaction, all experiments in this situation should be stopped. Yes, it's a shame, but, fortunately, hyaluronic acid is not the only water-retaining component that is added to cosmetics. Glycerin, urea, low concentrations of AHA acids and some others have similar properties. They are also able to retain water, albeit in a much smaller volume than hyaluronic acid, but they are much cheaper.
Another popular way to use hyaluronka in cosmetology is injections. Immediately make a reservation that all the invasive procedures should be prescribed by a dermatologist, he will also tell you about what exactly is indicated and contraindicated specifically for you. We will talk about what techniques involving hyaluronic acid, in principle, exist. One of the most popular procedures is mesotherapy and, in particular, biorevitalization, which is designed to increase the level of skin moisture, stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, and also smooth fine wrinkles.
In 2003, the FDA approved the use of hyaluronic fillers to correct wrinkles, change the shape of the lips, highlight the cheekbones, lift eyebrows and facial contours. You should not confuse fillers and injections aimed at relaxing the muscles of the face: among the latter, for example, Botox and Dysport, which temporarily block the susceptibility of muscles to nerve impulses, due to which mimic wrinkles are smoothed over time. Hyaluronic fillers act differently - they are like a sponge: when injected, they accumulate water in themselves and due to this they even out the skin relief and increase the volume of those parts of the face into which the preparation was injected.
There are several types of fillers: collagen, hydroxyapatite, fat and hyaluronic. Recently, it is increasingly used precisely hyaluronic. It is believed that they are closest to the "ideal" filler, which, according to scientists, should combine a light introduction, have a stable long-lasting effect, be painless, not provoke allergies and skin diseases, do not move from the injection site and be available as specialists and patients. Since hyaluronic acid is a skin-related component, it is also the safest compared to other types of fillers, both when it is in the skin and after it breaks down.
Another advantage of hyaluronic fillers is that there is an antidote for them - hyaluronidase. It is an enzyme that breaks down polysaccharides. If the result of the procedure is not the same as planned, and too much drug was injected, hyaluronidase will return everything to the place, but the effect of the injection will disappear completely and you will have to start all over again. Allergic reactions to hyaluronic fillers occur regardless of the competence of the doctor and can occur both immediately and within a few weeks. Also, bruises, swelling and redness may occur at the injection site, which eventually disappear. The main disadvantage of injections of hyaluronic acid is that the effect of them lasts not for long - an average of about six months, after which the procedure must be repeated. With the high cost of drugs and procedures, this type of contour plastics can not afford all.
In any case, there are always more affordable and affordable home care products with hyaluronic acid at hand. However, if the effectiveness of hyaluronka in moisturizing any type of skin is proven, then scientists still have to study its anti-aging and healing properties. To use cosmetics with hyaluronic acid or not is a matter of personal choice. Like any other component, it is not suitable for everyone. Understand what effect hyaluronic acid will produce on a specific person can only be experienced by, and best of all, under the supervision of a proven cosmetologist. But it is already clear that this ingredient is worth paying attention to.
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