Odorous king: 7 of the best new flavors with iris
Text: Ksenia Golovanova, author of the telegram channel Nose Republic
It is possible that the odorous king of the current decade descendants will call iris, in this multi-faceted component "noses" and parfmanyaki in recent years, going crazy. Indeed, there are many good modern scents with him, and despite the recognizability, a bright flower can be different: powdery, vital, giving away a grave rot. Ksenia Golovanova chose the seven brilliant (and not yet had time to get bored) aromas with iris.
Encens asakusa
L'orchestre parfum
13 500 rub.
for 100 ml
Encens Asakusa was released the year before last - as part of the first collection of the brand L'Orchestre. All of it revolves around music: "Asakusa", for example, is inspired by the eponymous Tokyo quarter, in which, on the one hand, there are many temples (hence the main theme of the fragrance, incense), on the other, tea houses and okiya, that is, houses where geisha live and maiko. One of the two instruments in the geisha’s arsenal is a long kito (you can listen to it on the brand’s website). Once Shiseido has already devoted its scent to its unusual, metallic and vibrant sound - the wonderful green chypre Koto. But this smell is completely different: a cool, powdery iris, perfumed with incense, equally secular and sublime.
Iris doré
Korloff paris
16 000 rub.
for 100 ml
“An icy, aldehyde-filled iris: if other fluids are said to be“ tailored, ”this one is carved out of a mountain of juniper ice and lavender vodka,” perfumery journalist Juliet Ptoyan writes about last year’s Juliet and Ghosts telegram. The review is accurate, but the name of the perfume is not: our iris is not golden, like Jaisalmer, an ancient Indian city of yellow sandstone to which it is dedicated, but rather platinum - cold, radiant, refractory. The combination of iris and bitter and drunken juniper reminds of another important representative of the genre, Iris Nazarena of the New York brand Aedes de Venustas, released in 2013. The most obvious difference between them is a hard leather chord in the aforementioned fragrance, but the general idea is to show the iris in a position of strength, and not in the form of a clerk-maid of honor in a powdered wig.
Splendiris
Parfums dusita
price will be announced later
Here is the most recent - chronologically - iris in our selection, and they gave him the name just a few days ago. They did it, as often happens with an exceptionally friendly Dusita brand, the whole world: Pissar Umavijani perfume announced a competition for the best name and got almost a thousand options. Frankly, it's difficult to kill the brilliant naming of the April Aromatics brand - almost the same new Irisistible, but Splendiris (the result of the merging of the words splendid, “magnificent”, and iris) sounds not bad.
Iris in the brand, which in modern perfumery occupies a niche of unconditional, uncluttered beauty (minus Oud Infini, still somewhat clouded by strong shit), was a matter of time - this is one of the most elegant things in the world, if done well. A Splendiris collected remarkably: yellow-purple, pollen bouquet of flowers, lined with green leaves of violet. Do not be sad, do not cry, do not fall into the coffin on the example of neighbors in the genre - and in general, he has spring on his nose.
Le cri de la lumière
Parfum d'empire
10 500 rub.
for 30 ml
The Creek of the Light is nothing like the rich, baroque heritage of perfumer Marc-Antoine Korticyato. It is a floral chypre, filled with cirrus clouds and oyster mother-of-pearl, like the skoren landscapes of Soren Kröyer: irises and roses, light musks, beautiful and very modern fragrant materials that mimic the chypre "bottoms" of vintage fragrances.
One amourette
Etat Libre d'Orange
11 900 rub.
for 100 ml
Une Amourette - the Etat Libre d'Orange collaboration with designer Roland Mouret, who has been putting celebrities in deceptively simple sheath dresses for twenty years in a row; Dita von Teese and Victoria Beckham love him very much. Both brands, let's say, are interested in sex: everyone remembers Secretions Magnifiques, and Moura's famous statement “My dresses are designed to be removed” - even in 2019 it does not climb into any gate, but it is still googled easy.
Coming together on the topic of eroticism, the two brands made Une Amourette, which translates from French as "intrigue" - the scent, according to the authors, tells about a passionate romance with all that it implies. And even though the topic of sex for perfumery is not new, reading the iris in the fragrance is very unusual: here all its fine powder was shaken off and wrapped in a sweaty sheet. Indole, love sweat, patchouli, the shadow of agar - such a company had no toffee for a long time. Surprisingly, she was picked up by Daniela Andrie, the author of one of the most cerebral irises of the century - Infusion d'Iris, Prada.
Niral
Neela Vermeire Créations
19 900 rub.
for 60 ml
Most of the Neela Vermeire fragrances are devoted to epochs in the history of India, where the brand’s creator comes from: India’s Vedic lineage, India’s emperor Ashoka’s India, colonial India, and so on. An exception was made for Pichola, which is given to the eponymous postcard lake in the state of Rajasthan - where an incredible array of snow-white marble grows out of the water, like a mirage, the summer residence of the Maharajas.
The last year’s release of the brand, Niral, is again moving away from the historical epic in the direction of more tangible - in the literal sense of the word - phenomena of Indian culture: this is a story about the so-called wild tussa silk from mountainous states. It is less smooth, shiny and uniform than the one that is obtained from the home silkworm, but is also valuable for fans of imperfect beauty, including Nila Vermeer. Niral, however, is almost perfect - a champagne cocktail with darjeeling and a candied purple petal at the bottom of the glass.
O, Unknown
Imaginary Authors
$95
for 50 ml
Another iris inspired by Asia: the elderly hero of an imaginary book (all books from Imaginary Authors are imaginary) embarks on the last great journey of his life - in Bangladesh, Nepal, China and, if you believe the picture on the bottle, in Japan. Along the way, of course, he drinks smoked lapsang souchong, walks among the mountain pines, breathes the cold air of the Himalayan foothills. And the iris, earthy and giving away with chalk, is here in its usual role - for sadness for something irretrievably gone.
PHOTO: Perfume Art, Perfumista, Fragrantica, Jovoy Paris, Etat Libre d'Orange, 10 Corso Como, Indigo Perfumery