Perfumes: 24 olfactory artists you need to know

Text: Bogdan Zyryanov, author of the Telegram channel Hear the smell

The sacred question "Where are all the women artists?"which increasingly sounds on the English Internet in connection with #MeToo and # Time'sUp, is in fact incorrectly formulated: it would be more correct to ask why the artists appear little in educational programs. Contrary to popular belief, a female mark in the history of fine art is discovered long before Frida Kahlo and Marina Abramovich: it suffices to recall Artemisia Gentileschi, who in the XVII century became the first woman to be admitted to the Florentine Academy of Fine Arts, or founding members of the British Royal Academy of Arts Angelique Kaufmann and Mary Moser .

The situation was similar in sculpture, in architecture, and in music. The area of the olfactory (perfumery) art was no exception: for a long time the names of perfumers were not in the public domain, and the balance of forces in production was not in favor of women. However, in recent decades, much has changed. In 2000, the olfactory "publisher" Frederick Malle put the names of perfumers on the bottles, and the creators and creators of the fragrances began talking. Major brands, such as Hermès and Cartier, began to organize press meetings with their regular "noses", and perfume schools, which in 2002-2005 had a significant advantage in favor of men, revised the admission policy. And although it is premature to talk about equal representation, today women-perfumers work in the world's largest concerns on a par with men, and their creations receive prestigious awards. Without claiming to be inclusive, we have compiled a list of talented perfume artists, whose works are worthy of being on your shelf.

Daniela Andrie

Prada Infusion d'Iris

A native of Germany, Daniela Roche-Andrieu graduated from the Sorbonne Faculty of Philosophy before becoming a perfumer. General education is not in vain: the depth of thought and some thoughtfulness are read in all of her works. In addition, the brands for which Andrie has created the most fragrances are attributed to the so-called intellectual fashion: these are Prada, Bottega Veneta and Bvlgari. Her favorite components are the iris and galbanum, which she combines in a new way every time.

Worth trying: Prada Infusion d'Iris, Maison Margiela (Untitled), Bottega Veneta Parco Palladiano V: Lauro

Honorine Blanc

Calvin Klein Obsessed for Women

Makes non-banal remixes of famous stories, which are often more interesting than the originals. The only thing worth is created in 2010 "opium beauty", which is ahead of time and, alas, was quickly removed from production: embers of a ritual campfire, wreaths of lilies and greedy copulation under a duel fight of wahy. Nine years later, connoisseurs continue to hunt for this intriguing sketch in the spirit of the film "Emmanuel and the Last Cannibals".

Worth trying: YSL Belle d'Opium (with Alberto Morijas), Tom Ford Noir Anthracite, Calvin Klein Obsessed for Women

Francesca Bianchi

The lover's tale

Francesca herself describes her creations as sensual and intimate - without these epithets no cost, it seems, not a single perfume press release. In fact, the Italian fragrance of artisanal perfumes distinguishes the pressure of passion, which can be found in Renaissance paintings - Francesca, who studied the history of art in Florence and knows every corner of the Uffizi gallery, would certainly agree with this comparison.

Worth trying: Sex and the Sea, Under My Skin, The Lover's Tale

Daphne Bugey

Starck peau de pierre

A perfume with twenty years of experience, Daphne Bugey grew up in Geneva in a family that was in no way connected with the aromatic-chemical industry. When she was a teenager, her parents took her on an excursion to Grasse, and the girl understood what she wanted to be when she grew up. “I didn’t like chemistry, but I knew that I wanted to become a perfumer, so I began to study it in order to enter ISIPCA,” recalls Madame Buge. Perseverance bore fruit: she enrolled at the International School of Perfumery Art, which Jean-Jacques Guerlain had founded in Versailles in 1970 and which to this day remains one of the few educational institutions in the world that prepare perfumers to work with major brands. And then in 1997 a woman was hired by the international concern Firmenich, whose employees create compositions for Jean-Paul Gaultier, Giorgio Armani, Issey Miyake, Le Labo and others.

Worth trying: Le Labo Rose 31, Starck Peau de Pierre, Mugler Aura (with Amandine Claire-Marie, Christophe Reynaud and Marie Salaman)

Sophia Groisman

Lancôme trésor

A native of Belarus, and now a vice-president of IFF (International Flavors and Fragrances), Sophia Groisman secured her place in history by creating the author's “hug me” accord (ISO E Super, galaxolid, Hedione and Methylionone) and qualitatively rethinking the rose - without her The contribution of today's perfumery would be completely different.

Worth trying: YSL Yvresse, Estée Lauder White Linen, Lancôme Trésor

Annik Gutal

Annick goutal eau d'hadrien

The founder of the eponymous house perfumery, Annik Gutal came into the industry after making a career as a pianist. Recalling the beginning of her journey in a new sphere for her, Gutal noted that musical analogies (notes, chords, harmony) were useful: "I returned to music, to that part of my soul, which, unfortunately, was closed earlier." It took seven years to memorize the ingredients and perfect the skill of Annick Gutal - so much time passed from the moment when she met perfumer-mentor Henri Sorsan to the opening of the first boutique on Rue de Belchass. Annik Gutal died in 1999; her daughter, Camilla, continued her business, rebranding the house, leaving only her last name in her name.

Worth trying: Annick Goutal Eau d'Hadrien, Annick Goutal Eau de Camille, Annick Goutal Petite Chérie

Olivia Giacobetti

Diptyque philosykos

Without it, we would never know how the reference fig aroma sounds: crisp green, oozing with white juice and remembering the breath of the wind. And her famous lilac, created for the "perfume publisher" Frederick Mall, remains unsurpassed eighteen years later.

Worth trying: Diptyque Philosykos, L'Artisan Parfumeur Dzing !, Frédéric Malle En Passant

Isabel Doyen

Nuit de baklite

Assistant famous Annik Gutal, who later became the teacher of her daughter Camilla Goutal, is famous for her love of contrasts and the ability to combine the incompatible. Last year, Isabel Doyen created a sensation, having composed for the Australian brand Naomi Goodsir the strangest tuberous composition in the history of the newest perfumery: the stems of a decapitated flower smell like telephone wire braid and weary expectation of not a call, not a dawn, which doesn’t come at all.

Worth trying: Goutal Mandragore, Goutal Nuit Étoilée, Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite

Cecile Zarokyan

Jul et Mad Paris Aqua Sextius

The industrious Frenchwoman with Armenian roots was going to become a pediatrician and therefore she studied the chemistry from school. Fate decreed that her knowledge came in handy: today, Cecil Zarokian can blindly distinguish between two hundred perfume notes (her favorite is tonka bean), and her customers are forced to stand in a queue. Zarokyan is one of the few who succeeded in becoming a successful freelance perfumer: the girl works in her own laboratory in the 10th arrondissement of Paris, and all customer briefs come to the address of the registered company Cecile Zarokian SARL, which turned seven in 2018.

It is curious that Cecil Zarokian does not consider that she has her own clearly defined handwriting, however, admirers of her talent note the extraordinary tactility of her compositions, which wrap the carrier like a cashmere blanket.

Worth trying: Laboratorio Olfattivo Kashnoir, Masque Milano Tango, Jul et Madr. Aqua Sextius

Anna Zworykina

Anna Zworykina Perfumes Currant Mood

The list would be incomplete without the only olfactory artist from Russia who achieved international recognition, working exclusively with natural ingredients: essential oils, CO_2-extracts, absolutes, floral waxes and tinctures. A biochemist by training, Anna has been creating natural fragrances for fifteen years, which are successfully sold all over the world.

Worth trying: Anna Zworykina Perfumes "Cossack Young", Anna Zworykina Perfumes Sea Foam, Anna Zworykina Perfumes Currant Mood

Amandine Claire-Marie

Bottega Veneta Pour Homme Essence Aromatique

Composition Amandin distinguishes perfectionism, which grows from its personal qualities. After graduating from ISIPCA, she became an intern at Robertet, where she came under the patronage of Michel Almerac. Mentoring ten years long allowed Amandine Claire-Marie to become an independent artist.

Worth trying: YSL Le Vestiaire des Parfums Trench, Bottega Veneta Pour Homme Essence Aromatique, Maison Lancôme Santal Kardamon

Matilda Laurent

Cartier carat

After graduating from ISIPCA and having worked eleven years in Guerlain, the Parisian Matilda Laurent moved to Cartier - the famous jewelry house was looking for a perfumer who would work on individual orders. Today, it still serves VIP customers at home who are ready to pay sixty thousand euros for an exclusive fragrance, and to the joy of all of us, she also releases the brand-name perfumes.

The glass walls of her lab on the sixth floor of the Fondation Cartier gallery are decorated with a quote from Steve Jobs: “People don’t know what they want until they show it.” As befits a modern classic, Matilda Laurent doesn’t say exactly what she’s telling, but shows — into faceted vials — phenomena as intangible as the spirits themselves: the burning sensation of a big wild cat, the breathtaking feeling of flight, and in the last work a dazzling ray of light, as in the very song of Madonna, which marked the arrival of the new millennium.

Worth trying: Cartier La Panthère, L'Envol de Cartier, Cartier Carat

Natalie Lorson

Chopard Magnolia au Vétiver du Haïti

Born in Grasse, the perfume capital of the world, Nathalie Lorson grew up surrounded by smells. For years, honing her skills, she has achieved unsurpassed conciseness: for example, her Lalique Encre Noire (2006), which still divides people into admirers and haters, is famous for its criminally short formula.

Worth trying: D & G Sicily, Altaia Tuberose in Blue, Chopard Magnolia au Vétiver du Haïti

Shyamala Mezondyo

Liquides Imaginaires Bloody Wood

The wife of perfumer Antoine Mesondieu also succeeded in the field of olfactory art. Shyamaly’s multifaceted cultural background serves as an additional source of inspiration: the girl has Indian-Malaysian roots, and before settling in France, she studied on the other side of the English Channel.

Worth trying: Liquides Imaginaires Bloody Wood, Etat Libre d'Orange Charogne, Comme des Garçons Stephen Jones

Annik Menardo

Dior hypnotic poison

The author of provocative works, who repeatedly rewrote the newest history of perfumery art, was born in Cannes and initially wanted to become a psychiatrist. As in the case of Cecil Zarokian, the study of biochemistry helped her in the way of an olfactory artist. Annick Menardo's style was formed in the 90s - a time of unrestrained eclecticism - and she managed not only to leave a noticeable mark, but also to anticipate trends. So, created in 1998 by Bvlgari Black, which smelled of bitumen and molten tires, anticipated the Comme des Garçons urban experiments, and the poison-anise Lolita Lempicka and Hypnotic Poison paved the way for an inedible gourmet who is now experiencing a new wave of popularity.

Worth trying: Bvlgari Black, Lolita Lempicka, Dior Hypnotic Poison

Christine Nagel

Galop d'Hermès

She gained basic knowledge of working with aromatic substances in Firmenich, then worked at Aromatic Creations (now Symrise), Quest and Givaudan - if she had a goal to work in all major aromachemical concerns, she succeeded. Subsequently, Kristin worked for four years at Fragrance Resources, creating numerous compositions for Jo Malone. From there, she made a passion for white musk and sour fruit and berry notes.

Now a native of Geneva holds the position of full-time "nose" at the house of Hermès, where he re-thinks the brand codes of the brand after the departure of Jean-Claude Ellen. Extraverted by nature, Christine Pozhel reveals the facets of her character in the work: her recent work, such as Gallop and Myrrhe Eglantine, exude optimism and the joy of living in continuous motion.

Worth trying: Fendi Theorema, Galop d'Hermès, Hermèssence Musc Pallida

Patricia de Nicolai

Nicolaï New-York

Jean-Paul Gerlaine's niece grew up in the family mansion of the famous perfumery dynasty and from childhood dreamed of continuing the family business. However, my uncle thought that perfumery was "not a female occupation." We must pay tribute to Patricia, who did not give up and entered the Higher Perfume School ISIPCA. After graduating from it, the girl did her internship at Firmenich and Quest, and then created her first fragrance manifesto for a free woman who sets her own rules. For the paradoxical combination of tuberose, galbanum and marigold, her Number One received a prestigious international award in 1988, and the next day Patricia de Nicolai literally woke up famous.

Today, thousands of fans around the world admit to love Nicolaï Createur de Parfum, including perfume criticism Luca Turin, who wrote: “If Guerlain’s current management had any sense of common sense, they would have bought the Nicolaï brand and released Patricia's fragrances under their brand. "

Worth trying: Nicolaï New-York, Nicolaï Number One Intense, Nicolaï Cuir Cuba Intense

Mona di orio

LM Parfums Patchouly Bohème

The brilliant olfactory artist, who founded her own niche house in 2004, broadcast the chiaroscuro effect, or chiaroscuro, which was perfectly owned by Rembrandt van Rijn, into the language of smells. Just as on the canvases of the Dutch painter, the spectrum of human experiences is expressed by the shimmering contrast of brightly lit areas and shaded areas, in the scents of Maison Mona di Orio the sparking citrus notes collide with rich animals and resinous notes of the base.

The example of Mona di Orio proves that genius comes at the cost of hard work. To re-create the smell of the Dutch Star rose, she spent most of her professional life: Mona worked on Rose Étoile de Hollande for fifteen years and finished it shortly before she left. The death of Mona di Orio in 2011 was a huge loss for the entire perfume community, but the memory of it continues to live.

Worth trying: Mona di Orio Lux, Mona di Orio Oudh Osmanthus, LM Parfums Patchouly Bohème

Marie Salaman

Armani Privé Iris Céladon

The rising star of perfumery Mari Salaman, like some other colleagues in the shop, studied at the doctor, before discovering a passion for perfumery. Marie loves to work with woody, resinous and spicy notes (her favorite perfume of the past is Guerlain Shalimar), but in practice she is able to create in any genre. Having made a name for herself thanks to the super-popular YSL Black Opium (she is one of its four authors), Marie Salaman created the olfactory style of the Alaïa brand from scratch, and also filled up the Armani Privé line with three beautiful sketches on the topic of iris.

Worth trying: Alaïa Paris Alaïa, Maison Margiela Replica By The Fireplace, Armani Privé Iris Céladon

Pissara Umavidzhani

Dusita Issara

The daughter of the great Thai poet Montri Umavidzhani, the founder of her own brand Dusita and ruinous perfume critics who can not resist buying every new her creation. Sage-hay Erawan, released last year, dedicated to the eponymous Thai deity in the guise of an elephant with thirty-three heads, took the prize “Breakthrough of the Year” at the FiFi Awards Russia - 2018 prize. the exhibition Esxence in April, already early can be called one of the contenders for the title of the fragrance of 2019. This is because none of the living perfumers knows how to work with floral accords as Ploy does, as friends and admirers affectionately call the Pissar.

Worth trying: Dusita Issara, Dusita Le Sillage Blanc, Dusita Fleur de Lalita

Natalie Feisthauer

Comme des Garçons Olfactory Library Series 6: Synthetic Tar

Able to find beauty in the unobvious and sensitively captures the spirit of the times. In 1995, she concluded a bottle crowned with Medusa Rondanini, the obstinate temper of the then top models, creating the white-flowered Versace Blonde bomb. Its fragrance - the commemoration of the megapolis Comme des Garçons Olfactory Library Series 6: Synthetic Tar (2004) stimulated the craze for “burning rubber and burnt rags” that captured the niche sector in the early 2010s. And in 2017, at the request of the Brooklyn brand Aedes de Venustas, Natalie Feisthauer reanimated the flower, which was doomed to dry on school windowsills, and made it fashionable - with her light hand the geranium is the new sexy.

Worth trying: Comme des Garçons Olfactory Library Series 6: Synthetic Tar, Aedes de Venustas Pelargonium, Au Pays de la Fleur d'Oranger L'Eau de Gina

Ann Flipo

Alexander McQueen My Queen

The honorary master perfumer of the company IFF (International Flavors and Fragrances) works in a variety of genres, but everywhere it accompanies success. Whether it be watercolor sketches for L'Artisan Parfumeur or heavy artillery like Paco Rabanne Invictus and Lancôme La Vie Est Belle - it seems that Ann Flipot has the gift of Midas. Everything she touches becomes either a recognized masterpiece or a commercial bestseller.

Worth trying: Alexander McQueen My Queen, L'Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse Aux Papillons, L'Artisan Parfumeur Mimosa Pour Moi

Sophie Shabo

Chabaud lumière de venise

The founder of the eponymous niche brand creates scents for home and perfume in the coastal city of Montpellier in southern France, and the atmosphere of a carefree holiday on the Cote d'Azur permeates all of her work. Sophie Shabo's compositions are distinguished by the notorious "je ne sais quoi" - they sound at ease and very "French."

Worth trying: Chabaud Lait Concentré, Chabaud Chic et Bohème, Chabaud Lumière de Venise

Celine ellen

The Different Company De Bachmakov

The daughter of the modern classic Jean-Claude Ellen, Celine Ellen, followed in the footsteps of her father. В работах Селин много воздуха, что, по меткому замечанию обозревателя Яны Зубцовой, позволяет им "оставлять место внутри себя для соединения с человеком", - высшая степень парфюмерного искусства.

Стоит попробовать: The Different Company De Bachmakov, The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit, L'Artisan Parfumeur Cote d'Amour

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