Banks hoi: 7 best punk flavors
Text: Ksenia Golovanova, author of the Telegram channel Nose Republic
We continue to explore the flavors who are not obliged to please everyone and are not afraid to shock "excessive" originality. Some of them can be described by the concept of "punk": in the end, protest, dirt and non-standard beauty can be described by smells, sometimes very close to the truth. At our request, perfume critic Ksenia Golovanova collected seven flavors that will help cheer up those who yearn in the company of summer floral and fruit lemonade.
Charogne, État Libre d'Orange
7500 rub.
for 50 ml
From French, the name of the fragrance is translated as "carrion, carrion, rotten meat", and do not believe the faint-hearted distributors who turn Charogne into "Sacrifice." The only thing that you have to sacrifice is the location of your neighbor in openspace: one of the best compositions of État Libre d'Orange smells like wild lilies, which hatch through the decayed skin of a dead beast. The Westphalian forest comes to mind from the "Antichrist" - a talking fox opens its mouth, but instead of words, the fragrance of flowers comes out.
# 602 Here Piggy, CB I Hate Perfume
$110
for 100 ml
The name of the fragrance is inspired by the American gay slang expression "pig play", which describes unconventional sexual practices, such as fisting, urofilii, blood fetish, and so on. It smells better than it sounds: autumn ground, raw champignons (and, accordingly, sperm - because of the same nitrogenous compounds in the first and second), skin and latex. This perfume punk, or rather kink.
1805 Tonnerre, BeauFort London
15 800 rub.
for 50 ml
The first aromas of BeauFort, released in 2015, immediately made a lot of noise. Journalists and bloggers, like dolphins, frolicked in a spectacular texture: the brand was founded by The Prodigy concert drummer Leo Crabtree, who in addition chose the most obvious topic - the British Empire of the colonial heyday.
British perfumery always sells well in perfumery - such brands as Floris, Penhaligon's and Atkinsons successfully pour it into bottles. But their Britain is harmless and dry, like dusty lavender in a chest of drawers, while in Crabtree it is heavily mixed with blood, gunpowder, and ship rum. Take at least 1805 Tonnerre, investigating the death of Horatio Nelson: it is known that the body of the admiral who was killed in the Battle of Trafalgar was brought to London in a barrel with brandy, and around the alcoholic chord everything else revolves - gun smoke, sea salt and recognizable blood.
Death and decay lush
670 rub.
for hard perfume
We have already written about Death and Decay, one of the best fragrances in the Lush perfume collection, and since then it has been taken out of production - at least in the form of alcoholic spirits (they are hard in the stores, and they are good). The border between beauty and inevitable decay is completely transparent here, like glass in a zombie horror underground laboratory: on the one hand there is a young scientist in an immaculate robe, on the other - the living dead crowd.
What exactly in Death and Decay separates life from death, in other words, flowers - overripe lilies and jasmine - from rotting, is not fully understood, but the beauty here is solely in the inhaler: to someone DeAD, as it is called in perfume forums, seems disgusting, others - brilliant.
L'Air de Rien, Miller Harris
8000 rub.
for 50 ml
About L'Air de Rien perfume critic Luca of Turin responded as follows: "It smells like drunk kisses, stale fragrant chopsticks and dirty underwear. I love." The beauty of perfumery is that you can achieve this effect with the most pleasant things, without resorting to the absolute rat and the extract of dirty socks; L'Air de Rien, for example, is made up of neroli, orange blossom, amber, and musk, and it seems that it is liquefied from the air in tents at Woodstock - it smells of flowers, damp cotton and unwashed hair.
Andy Warhol's Comme des Garçons
7350 rub.
for 100 ml
In 1967, Andy Warhol drew hundreds of Coca-Cola bottles with silver paint, filled them with cheap citrus cologne and called the installation “You're In”, which is homonymous with the English urine, “urine”. Coca-Cola did not appreciate the joke and burst into letters, followed by and a claim, but nevertheless those same silver bottles are sold today at auctions for 50 thousand dollars.
In the world of corporate humor, nothing has changed in the last half century, and when the Comme des Garçons wrote The Coca-Cola Company to use the original design of the bottle, they were firmly rejected. In short, You're In is sold in a simple bottle, but takes the content: it is a spectacular citrus-metal aroma with an unexpected shade of cilantro and white flowers, thick with indole.
Bat, Zoologist Perfumes
$145
for 100 ml
Modern perfumery is experiencing a crisis of ideas: it’s not always possible to find a niche in the hive where most cells are occupied, the young brand isn’t always - as a result, the consumer is offered to choose perfume according to blood type or add his own urine to cologne something interesting. But in some cases, new perfume ideas delight in half with bewilderment: why no one thought of before?
A good example is the Canadian Zoologist brand, which devotes aromas to animals, more precisely, as an animal painter, paints their portraits in the appropriate habitat. The choice of heroes deserves special respect: the founder of the brand, Viktor Wong could stick cute cats and dolphins and earn all the money of the world (Japan and South Korea with their Kawai cult for sure), but instead shows the world strange and not too favored animals. For example, "The Bat" is a damp cave with bats sleeping on the ceiling and a strong spirit of rotten fruit.
Photo: Pudra, CB I Hate Perfume, Aroma-tech, Lush, Miller Harris, Rive Gauche, Zoologist Perfumes