Barbara Bui about teen fashion
Infantile trend It is developing in a geometrical progression: now even such conservative brands as the house of Barbara Bui tend to create clothes that young people want to buy. For example, in the spring-summer collection of the French brand Barbara Bui, instead of black leather trousers, classic jackets and ankle boots on heels, we see continuous weird denim, extremely short shorts, bombers and men's shoes. We met with Barbara Bui and talked about why this is happening.
Who influenced your decision to become a designer?
I grew up in a mixed family - my dad is Vietnamese, and my mother is French - and was initially influenced by two different cultures. Parents raised tolerance in me, sensitivity to everything new. In our family, it was not customary to be biased towards anything. My mother was strong, but at the same time very sensitive woman. She has always been an example to me. When my parents were not at home, my aunt took care of me. She taught English, French and Latin at the university. When my aunt found out that I decided to become a fashion designer, she, of course, was upset. She thought it was a frivolous profession, but I still insisted on it. The only thing I wanted since childhood was to be myself.
Do you remember the things that were worn in childhood?
I hardly realized this when I was a child, but I always had my own style. I remember my parents and I somehow went to rest on the sea. I had long hair that fluttered in the wind, a separate swimsuit, and on top - a sports bomber jacket. I looked very cool! When I became a student, the style, of course, changed a bit. I wanted to dress more mysteriously, make an impression.
Have you ever wanted to change your loved ones or friends?
Yes of course! I wanted my relatives to dress fashionably, and not like everyone else. You see, the most important thing is to learn how to combine things with each other. Therefore, I was not shy about giving them advice, and not only about clothes. For example, one of my friends wore terrible long nails. I had to tell her: "Make short! It's not cool." In fact, relatives themselves turn to me for advice. I just say that they go and what should not be worn more than ever. Honesty is very important, especially with friends.
This is a new classic - wearing crop tops and bombers as if you are a teenager.
Do you think street fashion and subcultures are influencing fashion now?
Of course! This is a new classic - wearing crop tops and bombers, as if you are a teenager. In the summer collection, we completely abandoned high heels in favor of flat shoes. After all, it is not only fashionable, but also convenient - two in one!
Barbara Bui has always been an adult, elegant and serious - sexy dresses, skinny leather pants, high heels. Why did you suddenly decide to change the style?
Oh, great that you noticed it! The SS14 collection is a definite challenge to yourself. I suddenly wanted to do something that I had never done. For example, work with denim, show how versatile this material is. I hope I managed to strike a balance between youth and elegance.
Are you not afraid that bustier and micro-shorts will be too extreme for conservative Parisians?
Of course, if you are walking in Paris, then you see mostly girls in black trousers with arrows, ballet flats and beige trench coats. But I do not work for them. I work for the brave and free - and in Paris there are those too. They rotate in the creative environment, in the fashion industry, in art. I consider myself a Parisian, but I do not consider myself a supporter of the classics. Take a look at my collection of FW14 / 15. Habitual leather pants and leather jacket are generously studded with spikes, again, the pants go in tandem with a mini-skirt. The shoes will still be flat, but with a sharp nose and on the platform. I like the combination of masculinity and frank femininity. If you are not ready for a leather jacket, which ends under the breast, or a blouse made of transparent chiffon, then you can purchase a pantsuit or a knitted poncho. However, I plead for multi-layeredness - I advise you to wear trousers, a skirt, a vest and a jacket at the same time. “The main thing is not to bathe, but to remain oneself” is the motto of Barbara Bui.
What items from the summer collection do you recommend to wear to the party?
Short denim dress - in it you will look sexy, but not too elegant. In addition, you can stand out among other girls in the usual cocktail dresses. Crop top from dark blue denim together with wide trousers look seductive, but it does not matter.
Nowadays, art and fashion are closely linked. Do you have any favorite contemporary artists?
Yes, I am a big fan of Bill Viola - an American artist working in the genre of video art. He explores a person’s emotional states and metaphysical topics. Now in the Grand Pala is a retrospective of his work over the past 40 years. Be sure to go if you are in Paris!
your daughter is now nine. Is she already interested in fashion?
Oh yes, what else! She first came to my studio when she was three, and immediately began to try on shoes for models. It was cute and crazy fun. She has already formed her own style in the spirit of rock and roll. She flatly refuses to dress like a candy doll. When the last time we went shopping together, I suggested that she buy pink jeans. To which she said to me: "Mom, I do not want to be a little girl in pink!" After that, she chose other jeans for herself - also pink, but all in holes. I reasonably notice: "Honey, but those are also pink." "These are grunge and this is absolutely not the same thing!" - answered my daughter.
Photo: Sipa Press / Photodom