6 best collections of Moscow Fashion Week
From March 27 to April 1 in Moscow The 28th Moscow Fashion Week - Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia. Go to the Fashion Week in Moscow - how to ride on the carousel: there will be either an unpleasant lump in the throat, or a cheerful shine in the eyes. However, apart from a set of strange brands (Beloe Zoloto, Marina Makaron, HakMa?), There are still worthy designers, whose names are either already heard or just gaining popularity. We talk about the six best.
Yasya minochkina
Young Ukrainian designer Yasya Minochkina in Europe is already recognized on the streets, and not only because her face flashes in blogs. Three seasons in a row, Yasya showed their collections at London Fashion Week, and also presents them in the Fashion Scout platform showroom in the Marais quarter during Paris Fashion Week. The Western press has long been writing about the designer: English and Italian Glamor, Vogue and L'Officiel, Sarah Mauer, editor of the American Vogue, places great hopes on the designer.
This season, the girl once again proves that she is focused on creating high-quality commercial clothing for the young and the modern. And although the designer does not experiment much in forms, her clothes are understandable and wearable. Pleases styling, in particular, disheveled tails, socks and sandals on a massive sole, the choice of textured fabrics (polyamide mesh, chiffon, silk, leather) and colors of the collection (pink, dark green, white, black). It is worth noting the soundtrack for the show - listen, it was written by a young Moscow musician Jura Katovsky. All this pleasantly surprises and compares favorably with most of the shows at Moscow Fashion Week. The designer manages to jump into the outgoing train and is inspired by street fashion and the 90s. In the new collection, Yasya shows concise bombers, coats, Bermuda shorts, skirts, tops, and T-shirt dresses. Special thanks to Yase for the backpacks, the designer has been going to create them since last season.
Poustovit
Another Ukrainian designer, Lilia Pustovit, has been on the market for a long time, since 1998. She is a Ukrainian Phoebe Faylo and many people are still equal to her. In Kiev, part of the show of the new collection was concentrated, in silence, in view of the past events in Ukraine. In Moscow - entirely under instrumental music. Dresses - this is what the designer does best and is her calling card. So, the designer shows feminine silk dresses of a laconic cut both traditionally with prints (drawings in the form of skiers), and monophonic or at most two-colored things. It is interesting that in some dresses the sleeves are cut to sideways and resemble long sleeves. Traditional for the brand of peas in the collection is also present, but this time with a metallic sheen. The collection has a good voluminous coat with patch pockets and a sleeveless shirt - all polka-dotted. Last season, the designer showed T-shirts with the inscription "POUSTOVIT"; this season, another commercial item appears in the collection - a lemon sweatshirt (worn on the dress). Styling is also not boring: over the dresses they put on corsets and voluminous vests.
Litkovskaya
Of the five designers we celebrated at Moscow Fashion Week, three are Ukrainians. Ukrainian fashion, indeed, is now booming, and we hope to see the collections of Anton Belinsky, Svetlana Bevza, Anna October and Julia Pascal next season. Another designer who deserves attention is the minimalist Lilia Litkovskaya. She founded the brand in 2006 and has long been in the top of the best Ukrainian designers (along with Lilia Pustovit and Svetlana Bevza). Litkovskaya always managed to work with the most complex materials. In the new collection, Lily chooses fur, embossed leather, vinyl, and golden jacquard. The collection has tuxedos, wide trousers. The designer lingered a bit on massive coats, but they succeed her with a bang. Separate attention deserve the architectural tops with one shoulder. True, the final dress of burgundy velvet heavy color involuntarily refers to Christopher Kane. Particularly pleased with the soundtrack of the show.
Ria keburia
This paragraph is again not about Russian designers. We are closely following what the young avant-garde designer with Georgian roots Ria Keburiya is doing. She founded her brand just two years ago, making her debut at the Ukrainian Fashion Week in Kiev. Now Ria lives and works in Paris. From the first collection, the designer caused a resonance - things were almost unbearable, but they strongly expressed the designer’s views on fashion: a thing as a subject, first of all, creativity and DESIGN (a word that we rarely recall, looking at Russian catwalks). Two seasons later, Riya shows a more commercially successful collection. We see simple shorts, skirts, cotton shirts, quilted tops and jackets, heavy dresses, sheepskin coats and coats. All dark colors. Almost every thing you want to wear and give a separate bow for the music on the show, acid hairstyles of models, as well as styling with caps of voentorg and coarse shoes with an open heel.
ZDDZ London
ZDDZ is a British brand student of Central Saint Martins, St. Petersburg resident Dasha Selyanova, who presented her collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia. Dasha makes urban clothes and experiments with the aesthetics of the 90s. So, models under M.I.A. come out to the podium. "Bamboo Banga" in volume contrast sweaters with a big neck and the words "This way up!", "Drivers Wanted". We see shirts with psychedelic prints, striped trousers and a turtleneck with a multiplied Fragile print. All together it looks too fat, besides styling is built around the layering of clothing. However, if you disassemble everything in parts, we will find things that you want to wear: turtlenecks, bombers, pants, leggings, light coats, shirt dresses with vinyl details. The collection could look even more successful if the models had different hairstyles - a careless thick cloud on the head spoiled the impression a bit.
Ruban
In the past week of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia, among Russian designers, unfortunately, we can single out only the Ruban sisters show. On the catwalk there were models in trapezoid dresses and skirts, massive coats. Almost the entire collection was built around three main ideas: trimming of small shuttlecocks, patch pockets and multi-tiered. Therefore, on the one hand, it seems that the collection is overkill with textures and styling. So, it was decided to support an array of fabric with an array on the head, although it is obvious that the action should have been the opposite. On the other hand, the coming global course towards maximalism partly justifies such broad gestures. The most successful in the collection seems to be a coat with large patch pockets decorated with fox fur, as well as a pink leather coat and a pink leather top.