12 angry spectators: Girls and boys evaluate the latest women's fashion
Throughout the month we watched the fashion shows in New York, London, Milan, Paris and continue to summarize. We recently talked about 35 trends for the year ahead. Now we are asked to comment on the most memorable images from the last women's shows from two points of view: male and female, in order to figure out what the future season is and what we should prepare for now.
Kanye West for adidas Originals
FW 2015-2016
This image - the main thing for me from the past shows. He is beautiful, minimalistic and ideally challenging. It's all favorite: red and red-haired model. Despite the dubious reviews of all critics, I consider the entire collection cool and successful. Perhaps this is love for Kanye, but I consider him to be a really good designer and stylist. His sneakers from the Nike and Louis Vuitton collaborations are an excellent confirmation of this. I am sure that every second person will wear sweaters in a hole. Speaking specifically about this image, I want to go like this every day. In anticipation of the release of the collaboration, I already bought red tights and took out my scarlet JNBY dress.
In general, in the new season there is almost no hint of minimalism. Judging by the shows, frankly sexy things will be the main purchases of the fall. Think of Ashish and Christian Dior's patent leather boots, Balmain and Jacquemus transparent clothes and naked bodies, Thomas Tait and Vetements red, Alexander Wang and Valentino black leather, and Blumarine and Marques'Almeida underwear style. Those who are accustomed to sneakers, you can combine candid things with clothes in sports and men's style. Moreover, in Russia it is still difficult to wear short dresses, boots and neckline at the same time - quite recently this was considered the benchmark of provincial bad taste.
In fact, the Kanye collection for adidas Originals does not differ in originality from Topshop Unique, especially in this red image. This collection is designed for both fashionistas and taxi drivers. After all, universality is the main idea of any mass brand. For a fashionable audience, we get unwathed pantyhose feed. The result was interesting, but it cannot become a trend, since it is banal inapplicable to life. For the audience, simpler in the collection are stretched sweaters, bombers and sweatshirts. In general, the collection was a success and turned out to be quite sexy, although I know that for the absolute majority of people it will seem the opposite.
From a marketing point of view, the collection is a bomb. Everyone knows about her. Just do it - it is not clear. Purchase prices are higher than those of Rick Owens, and this is too expensive even for America and Europe, not to mention Russia. Judging by the prices, the collection was delivered by a spaceship from the planet Kepler-186f. Therefore, many things are unlikely to go beyond the hangers from the showroom. Although the recent release of the Yeezus sneaker of the same Kanye West for 30 thousand rubles has once again proved that the impossible is possible. In our store in Tsvetnoy, all the sneakers were sold in 22 minutes after the start of sales
Gucci
FW 2015-2016
Previously, in a terrible dream, I could not imagine that Zafanataey from Gucci. But with the arrival of the new creative director Alessandro Michele, everything changed. This is my favorite bow from the flawless collection of the updated brand. Immediately I recall Eva Green in Bertolucci's "Dreamers" and I want to be in Paris at the end of the 60s. I have been wearing such vintage fur coats for a long time and I hope one day I can afford this Gucci. Takes - a real hit of the future season, which I will wear with pleasure. Like pleated midi skirts, bell bottoms, bright turtlenecks, coats - that's all. Surprisingly, Michele managed to rehabilitate even the boring loafers with their symbolic branded buckle. Just add fur fluff, as they say.
I admit, not without shame, such cheap tricks still cling to me, when wearing a fur coat takes me glasses. It seems that there is something to talk about with her, but she won't run away from a boring movie. Chaste skirt in a nice bottle color balanced by a transparent blouse. All together with the red beret, the awkwardly hints: you can demand the impossible with this woman. I do not like Wes Anderson. Therefore, I prefer to associate this image with Eva Green from the “Dreamers”: May 1968, sexual liberation, intellectual growth, women who are stronger than men, Europe is young again. An interesting debut at Alessandro Michele. Of course, ladies still prefer comfortable Kanye West sweatshirts, but it’s even more interesting: if seven years ago, fur coats and grandmother’s skirts were crazed, now only real Amazons will decide on this.
J.W. Anderson
FW 2015-2016
New season pleased with its diversity. Someone is still working with the 70s, someone with the glam rock Kiss, someone reviewing old and funny sci-fi movies, and the Irishman Jonathan Anderson recalls the 80s. He himself, however, was born only in '84, but it still turns out to be convincing and, as always, incredibly cool. The boots are especially fascinating, absolutely luxurious: here is the red color (there are other options, but this one is, without a doubt, the most fiery), and a pointed, pointed nose, and ankle harmonica, and giant buckles with flowers ... This is the case when everything is so bad that it becomes beautiful. Whether this shoe applies to real life is a separate question. On the one hand, comments in the spirit of “Oh well, the clown” in Russia can be obtained thanks to much less radical outfits. On the other hand, many Russian girls happily wear much more monstrous shoes. At the same time, without thinking that the obvious deformity makes her charming.
New season shows make it clear: the 80s are back. It was a wonderful cheerful time, when the grotesque and theatricality in fashion reached a climax, and youth culture was their main ideological engine. So, Jonathan Anderson recalls the new wave style. It is no coincidence that the soundtrack for the show was the composition "Seconds" of the cult group The Human League. At first glance, the riot of bright colors and exaggerated forms, which we usually associate with the era of the 80s, does not at all fit into the framework of modern fashion. However, Jonathan showed a modern, "sleek" version of this style with a slight touch of futurism. He "smoothed" the silhouettes, removing unnecessary details. This image is practically Cindy Loper sample of the new millennium. If we ignore the styling, things individually can be safely carried in everyday life, combining with something more neutral. In the format of a total bow, this set is ideal for a costume party - the title of queen of the holiday is guaranteed.
Marques'Almeida
FW 2015-2016
Marques'Almeida - one of my favorites. After the not very successful spring-summer 2015 season (as it seems to me), they again issued a bombardously steep autumn collection. Here, all that we love about them: denim, raw edges, asymmetry. Plus, the guys added new methods for themselves, such as deconstructed things, the appearance of which can be changed with the help of zippers. Well, you know, customization is one of the most important global trends not only in fashion. Marques'Almeida continue to experiment with new materials. So, the season back it was knitwear, now Jacquard and fabrics, as if intended for furniture upholstery. This image is the concentration of the above. At first glance, it seems as if he had been attacked by an epileptic, but after looking closely, you understand how skillfully the banal technique of combining the incompatible has been worked out. Designers have adopted, perhaps, the main principle of modern fashion - competent styling. As we see in all the shows of the new season, it is styling and presentation that is more important today than design. This means that nothing needs to be changed in this image. I would only wash desperate smoky eyes and go to such a dress at least every day to work.
I only know about Marques'Almeida that they made a collection for Topshop. In general, as a person extremely distant from the high-thin fashionable matters, especially female ones, I can judge detachedly. The idea of this image and the entire collection is clear: this is such a fashion analogue of “uziotto” in gastronomy, when food is prepared from the remnants of everything in the refrigerator and on the shelves. Everything is made of scraps, scraps, remnants, pieces. This is a little from the series "I'll make it myself." Although, obviously, Marques'Almeida has the pathos of saving energy, saving materials and generally responsible consumption. True, when garbage is done for the sake of art, it turns the good idea upside down. It seems to me that such a grunge can only be liked as an idea, as a podium outfit. In life, it will look too radical and incoherent.
Vetements
FW 2015-2016
What could be better than to name a new brand, which managed to make a couple of shows, just “Clothes”? This translates the brand name from French. And make it so noble that at this show in the first row Kanye West was sitting in a sweatshirt already from their new collection. What attracts here? Violation of proportions, grotesque, mixing styles and lack of integrity. The collection was shown in the most tough gay club in Paris, which is rarely allowed to women. This completed the complete perception of the collection.
No one hides that Vetements are starting to act as a commercial vehicle, creating sweatshirts and logo t-shirts (the font has echoes from the skating company Thrasher), which will definitely be in demand. But with the commercial component, they retain their style.
Lotta Volkova Adam, who stylized the show, was also a muse. So, in the collection you can observe things from her wardrobe: big jackets and pants, sports things, massive shoes. In addition, Lotta herself opened the show, also inviting some guys from Lumpen in Moscow and just friends to participate. Thus, abstracting from the eternal canons of models, Vetements proved: the personality gives the clothes the right tone. In this way, I would definitely go to a party in the "Research Institute", to shoot. I would not be afraid to dress like that at the opening of the exhibition or premiere.
I have not seen such a well-thought collection for young, evil and hungry for a long time. He called out image after image and thought that the kits were perfect for the heroes of the early Nicholas Winding Refna film “Dealer”, which has: the nineties, raves with deafeningly bad music, cheap drugs, flat colors, crumpled T-shirts.
The Antwerp Vetements team at the same time shows: yes, we know the history, we don’t open our names on purpose and are aimed at long-term success, but now we are ready and willing to experiment. We will reshape coats, squeeze, crumple and tighten the uniforms of police and social workers, make infinitely long boots - all because we know how to do it, combine with each other and deliver things to the final consumer.
Vetements do not erase gender differences and do not emphasize androgyny, as Anderson does, for example. They create just good kits that do not affect the gender or status of the owner. Things do not belong to the present time, they are not confined to specific gender stereotypes and, at the same time, are guaranteed to look good outside of glossy shots. Perhaps the clothes are made on some clever advanced production - I can not judge, not knowing for sure.
Lemaire
FW 2015-2016
Nobility, relaxation, chic - all this comes to mind when looking at the latest show Lemaire. I am glad that Christoph Lemaire did not stay at Hermès and focused on his own brand. He has his own understanding of simplicity. On the one hand, what could be more trivial than bulky coats, loose shirts and culottes? On the other - he manages to do these things like no other. Despite the game with silhouettes and proportions, we see very feminine things. Look at the photo: bare ankles, open neck (stylistic technique does not count), soft line of the shoulders. "Male", tough materials - tweed and melton - only underline the fragility and femininity.
If I had the opportunity, I would only wear Lemaire and THE ROW. For me, this is the real embodiment of sensual elegance. I would like all visitors to fashion weeks to look similar, and feathers and wild fur to be inherited by their grandchildren.
All designers again turn to the aesthetics of the 90s. Lemaire's collection is about the same. This is such a variation of Parisian chic, but without any cliche in the form of vests and baguettes. The designer uses beautiful natural colors - gray and blue shades are diluted with an interesting cut and silhouettes. I, as a person who is not very immersed in the world of women's fashion, was very pleased to look at these things. I like this baggy on beautiful girls. Still, his women's collection looks much cooler male.
PHOTO: Getty Images / Fotobank (5)