Shoes on the platform in the autumn-winter collections
IN A CONSTANT WONDERZINE HEAD talks about trends from the podium that can be adapted for your wardrobe for the next six months. In this issue, we understand why the shoes on the platform are back in fashion and were shown on the autumn shows Kenzo, Céline, Sonia Rykiel, and also find out what types of this massive shoe to wear in the fall.
How it all began
Shoes on the platform is not only an example of the extravagant fashion of the glam rock era of the 70s, but also a functional thing that has been valued and worn from time immemorial. Sandals on the platform were worn in the Greek ancient theater: the height of the platform determined the main character of the action - he could be seen better than anyone. In medieval Europe, shoes on the platform saved from impassable dirt on the roads. Shoes on a platform of chopines, decorated with ornate patterns and precious stones, wore Catherine de Medici in the XVI century, and after her - the French nobility. In the 20th century, platform shoes were one of the first to rehabilitate Salvatore Ferragamo. In the wake of the avant-garde art of the late 20s, the famous Florentine designer created sandals with gold-plated buckles on a multi-colored cork platform, which still look modern.
Of course, the iconic platform shoes began in the 70s, in the era of disco and glam rock, which the American Vogue dubbed as "a time when there are no rules in fashion anymore." Androgyny, sexuality, emancipation led to the fact that, following David Bowie, Marc Bolan from T. Rex, Brian Eno, Kiss, Roxy Music and Elton John groups, platform shoes were worn with flared jeans in the afternoon and Saturday evening with sequined clothes and feather ornaments on the dancefloors of the disco clubs of Brooklyn and in the walls of Studio 54. Briton Terry de Havilland was making stunning platform shoes, behind which lined up at the London store Cobblers to the World. The store was one of the favorite places of rock stars and celebrities - from Bianchi Jagger to David and Angela Bowie. In 1993, Vivienne Westwood turned to the idea of crazy shoes, creating an insane pair of dark blue “hooves” on a 23-centimeter platform. Even Naomi Campbell failed to cope with these shoes, crashing to the floor during the autumn Anglomania show and thus making this pair of shoes a symbol of excesses in fashion and the most popular exhibit of the Victoria and Albert Museum. Later something similar was worn (and did not fall) during the Spice Girls concert tours. In addition, in the 90s, sneakers on the platform became popular - we remember them from TLC clips.
How to wear platform shoes
This autumn-winter season is closely connected with the 70s, with which it is related to maximalism, the return of psychedelic and optical prints, neon, sheep fur coats and platform shoes, which the brands offer to wear in two versions: with something equally crazy and avant-garde or with cool everyday things like a gray coat, a beige sweater, and a navy suit. Shoes on the platform are very different: from a chelsea on a massive 5-centimeter sole to sandals and sneakers on a platform of 10 centimeters. At the Sonia Rykiel show, models step in sandals on a huge platform, paired with classic beige coats and trousers-pipes. Stella McCartney shows beautiful platform shoes that come with jackets and leggings and mini dresses decorated with fringed threads. The Costume National collection also includes platform shoes, which the brand combines with both sweatpants and coats and evening dresses on the floor. Phoebe Fileno refers to the origins and shoes of Salvatore Ferragamo, showing platform sandals in combination with military items that are close in spirit to the 30th and 40th years. Antonio Marras features chelsea boots and sandals on a massive platform. Something similar is in the collection of Christopher Raeburn. Kenzo has crazy heeled shoes. Jonathan Anderson refers to the 70's androgyny and shows the shoes on the platform that David Bowie and the characters of the film "Saturday Night Fever" wore: the same as the skinny boys in the men's autumn show, and the girls in the pre-autumn women's collections. DKNY and Ashish interpret sneakers on the platform in the style of the 90s.
Watch out!
Shoes on a massive platform today are in abundance, including democratic brands - from Topshop to Monki. To make the fancy shoes take root in your everyday wardrobe, make them the main accent and combine them with something simple and basic, such as a suit, midi length skirts or a sleek coat. The main rule to remember: the combination of platform shoes with psychedelic prints is good for shows and concerts of Lady Gaga, but it is doubtful for life.
Photo: Getty Images / Fotobank (1), Sipa Press, Fotodom (3), Victoria and Albert Museum