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Do not extinguish: How to make a perfect gradient for centuries

INDEPENDENTLY AT THAT VARIOUS SHEETS AND GRADIENTS OF SHADOWS They are considered to be one of the basic techniques in make-up; not everyone is ready to do them daily - they seem to be something long and difficult. Of course, as with any skill, it will take time to master feathering. However, in the century when a dozen instructions on YouTube separate us from a new skill, those who want to learn will need only a little perseverance. We tell what you need to know if you are not indifferent to the "smoky" color transitions on the eyelids.

What is feathering

Few make-up moves can be popular with smoky eyes, which became fashionable at the beginning of the century thanks to the fatal beauties of the movie. Today it is performed in the usual deep dark colors, and in pastel versions, using a whole host of products for various variations. The shading technique itself is used, of course, not only in front of your eyes: mastering the correct “hand movement” and the ability to work with a brush are also necessary in order to apply blush, highlighters and other sculpturing products. Gradients and color transitions in modern makeup can be found on any parts of the face and body - thanks to the revolutionary makeup artists, and a huge selection of multi-tasking products on store shelves. Nevertheless, it is the feathering on the eyes implies the most difficulties.

The ideal formula for "smoky" makeup does not exist. You may only need one soft pencil, you can mix not only colors, but also textures, and life hacking for light versions constantly appear in beauty blogs (just recall the "sandwich method"). The canonical version involves the creation of a gradient in which the outer corner of the eye and the fold of the eyelid are darkened, and at the inner corner the color intensity decreases. The symmetry and sense of color in the development of feathering, of course, will be useful, but you should start with the choice of tools and careful preparation of the skin - this will significantly save effort.

What do you need for it

It is no coincidence that feathering is so popular among bloggers with a conservative audience: this is one of the techniques that most effectively show the skill of a make-up artist. But such make-up is seldom stable and wearable: several layers in which the most different products are stacked, will not hold any fixative for a long time. The skin of the eyelids works in the same way as the skin of the rest of the body, which means it produces sebum, which even the most skilled makeup cannot resist. If in the case of the rest of the face, this is a minor misfortune - it is easy to correct the position of the tonal tool or powder even on the move, then this is a real problem for a complex and saturated eye makeup. Dry and creamy shadows easily give in under the pressure of sebum, beginning at the end of the day to "roll".

A special base can help, which can be easily replaced with cream shades of nude hue - but only if the fat content of the eyelids is small. First of all, such a tool is necessary in order to make the color more intense and create a stable and smooth base on which the pigment is easily brightened, but at the same time firmly fixed. For serious purposes, a good tight Smashbox Photo Finish Lid Primer, for everyday use - light and plastic Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion; one hundred percent hit - MAC Pro Longwear Paint Pots cream shades, which show up the color of other products. Makeup artist Irene Shimshishshvili recommends applying a creamy backing to both the fixed and moving eyelids - the shadows will stick to the base, and not just lie on the skin. If the makeup is showered during the day, it is better to fix it with a finishing spray.

As a rule, dry products are needed for neat shading: non-plastic textures are cleaner. Makeup lovers often complain that the shadows crumble and "dust" when applied. Iren Shimshilishvili advises to use baking: to strongly powder the area under the eyes, and after completing the make-up, shake off any excess. Makeup artist recalls that brush should be brushed off after each product. The choice of tool, as we have repeatedly written, is also important: a good brush for blending should be quite elastic, but soft. The most convenient brushes that both beginners and professionals love are, of course, MAC 217 and Japonesque.

Apply the shadows also need a certain way: do not immediately distribute the pigment over the centuries in one fell swoop. Make small, imprinting movements, and for a feathering, take a clean fluffy brush. Continue to "drive in" the shadow, not waving the tool - so you will achieve uniformity and symmetry. Make sure that the direction of shading is the same, repeat identical movements: while learning, it is much more convenient to paint both eyes in stages, so as not to miss the chance to correct the inevitable blemishes.

How to do it

Almost every brand will have special kits that will allow you to not bother with the selection of colors, since the ideal range has already been made for you. Often they contain four colors, each has its own task: one acts as the base, the other serves to outline the contour, the third is intended for the fold and the outer corner of the eye, and the fourth one can lighten the space under the eyebrow. Nevertheless, it is better to train on two or three matching shades (arm yourself with the base video of Liza Aldridge, and forward). In fact, the stage of choosing the color is not so difficult: you can choose any combinations you like, but each will require a new approach.

If with relatively close shades everything is quite simple, then the biggest difficulty is makeup in contrasting colors - you have to work on the transition. Iren Shimshishishvili shares several tricks: it’s worth starting with applying the main color to the entire eyelid, then adding a lighter one to the inner corner of the eye, and a darker one to the outer one. To soften the boundaries of the transitions, you need to carefully "stretch" the colors into each other until you like the result.

Also, the makeup artist recommends the use of satin and shiny shadows: reflective particles will help make the transitions softer. A variety of glitters and glowing pigments are generally a great addition to smoky eyes: using glitter on top of finished makeup, you can easily hide a small asymmetry or turn makeup into a more irresistible version. Fashion monomeyk, in photos looking like a solid "fill", also needs careful feathering: to preserve the relief and the amount of color in the outer corner of the eye should be more than in the inner.

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