Kare: How a garter print got on dresses, windbreakers and tops
TELLING ABOUT TRENDS FROM PODIUM which can be adapted for your wardrobe for the next six months. This time we will talk about the scarf print and the classic square of the square - its appearance on the catwalks is all the more surprising at a time when sports and street style turned out to be on a wave of interest. We understand how this happened.
Dasha Prince
How it all began
Almost all things fashionable today appeared because of practical needs: windbreakers were designed to protect from piercing wind and sea spray, and Panamas - from the scorching sun. But it seems that, from the very beginning, lightweight scarves were not only utilitarian, but also decorative. The first mentions belong to Ancient Egypt - the queen Nefertiti used such a headscarf as a headdress; Roman men wore a cutout of fabric around their necks or belts, which absorbed sweat, and in ancient China, a silk scarf was a sign of high status.
A new era in the history of the silk scarf began thanks to the fashion empire Hermès, which initially produced riding accessories. In 1937, the French house produced the first square, the drawing for which was created by a member of the family of founders, Robert Dumas; the item was stitched from the strongest material on the market at the time - Chinese silk. Since then, Hermès has produced many scarves with a variety of prints, but the motifs associated with equestrian sports have remained dominant.
The French brand turned the silk scarf into a symbol of luxury - both celebrities and royal persons began to wear it actively. For example, Elizabeth II is still happy to tie it up like a kerchief, and Grace Kelly, being already a princess of Monaco, used the caret of Hermès as a fixing band after she broke her arm. Silk shawls were widely distributed in the 60s and 70s, becoming a symbol of freedom, which contributed to the actress from Brigitte Bardot to Fei Dunaway. For a long time, Caret was a constant attribute of the image of a mythical Parisian woman who easily ties a silk scarf to a bag and goes for breakfast with a croissant - advertising campaigns are still working tirelessly to maintain this legend.
Why shawls are back in fashion
In the zero squares they played the role of a bohemian accessory - they seemed to be in opposition to the “luxurious” fashion for rhinestones and low-rise jeans. Alexander McQueen's skull-print handkerchiefs have become a real hit of the brand and fully claim to be a symbol of the era.
In the late 2000s - early 2010s, Hermès decided to restore the former greatness of his cult model. Despite good sales, the silk scarf was considered an obsolete accessory, which seemed to have no place in a new era. So scarves began to appear in street reports of bloggers, and Hermès - even harder to work with a young audience. You can recall the project J'aime mon carré, consisting of a fanzin, a website and a series of events designed to update the image of a silk scarf and return it to the status of mastheva.
However, the excitement that handkerchiefs and characteristic prints caused during the fashion weeks of the fall-winter-2018 season has already appeared quite organically: on the wave of interest in functional and practical things, the domination of bicycles and belt bags are looking for something new. Moreover, the caret carefully protects the head from the cold, especially if you wear it along with a cap, and logically continues other tendencies - to balaclavas (if tied up like Balenciaga) and anonymity (a stylistic technique in which the faces of the models were completely covered with scarves, - Richard Quinn or Marine Serre). It is curious that the typical print itself became a source of inspiration. Dresses, tops, all kinds of removable hoods with such a pattern showed a variety of designers. The mass market is not far behind - at least such blouses can be bought already in the omnipresent Zara and in Topshop.
What to wear
Things with a scarf print are good with their pronounced texture: silk looks interesting with coarse wool, fleece and denim. If you want to dress in the appropriate pattern from head to toe, you can be inspired by the bows from the Richard Quinn show, and you can tackle an example of how to dilute the image with just one silk thing, at Jacquemus.
Classic scarf, tied as a kerchief, - the hit of the season. Do not be afraid to combine it with okolosportivnymi things: look at how organic silk scarves at the Vetements show - and elegant minimalist images, and complex multi-layered exits look in the spirit of the times. If this is too bold for you, pay attention to the Toga show, where the classic car was combined with a conventionally office set of things. Acne Studios showed the best example of how to combine accessories: the brand offered to forget about the classic reception on the “Hermès Kelly” handle and choose a voluminous bag-pillow and a giant scarf.
Photo: Wikimedia Commons, Marine Serre, Balenciaga, Acne Studios
