Again the 90s

In the constant rubric "Tendency" we closely look at trends that in one way or another affect our appearance every six months, but we reflect on them in the context of more significant trends.

Another material, “Again the 90s,” is about how Kurt Cobain and Helmut Lang influenced Olivier Theyskens and Phoebe Faylo and what is the style of the last decade of the twentieth century now being read.

Text: Liza Kologreeva

How and why designers turned to the nineties

It seemed to you that a coat as if from someone else’s shoulder, baggy horizontal striped suits and cropped tops would never return? Delight or grieve: the style of the nineties again with us. Working on rulers for future spring and summer, this decade was remembered by Dries Van Notten, Marc Jacobs and a dozen more designers who started to create or grew up at that time. Nineties are inspired in Russia. For example, this is one of the main themes of Gosha Rubchinsky's work: in each of his collections he is nostalgic for his teenage period.

From left to right, top to bottom: shooting of The New York Times; Kurt Cobain; Shooting from the blog Streetfsn; Jacquemus Lookbook; Alicia Silverstone; Kate Moss and Chloe Sevigny; Shooting from the blog Streetfsn; Gwen Stefani; advertising campaign Chanel FW 1991;

At first, in the nineties, grunge dominated. In fact, his representatives, who wore plaid flannel shirts and denim jeans, denied fashion. But thanks to the efforts of Anna Sue and Marc Jacobs who sympathized with them and with the help of Kurt Cobain, grunge got on the pages of Vogue. The nineties were also a decade of minimalism: lovers of laconic forms and clean lines Gilles Zander, Calvin Klein and, of course, Helmut Lang, without whom modern Raf Simons and Francisco Costa would not have appeared. At the same time, a classic hip-hop image was formed in baggy sweatshirts and trousers, snapbacks and a pair of three gold chains around the neck. And this is not to mention the fact that ravers appeared, which gave us leggings and neon, and Britpop groups with their printed T-shirts and skinny jeans.

Trends from the Nineties

Trends from the nineties are so global that they could devote some materials to Look At Me: remember at least grunge and minimalism. They are added to the symbols of the era in the face of neon colors and horizontal polos. Do not forget about jackets, visually increasing shoulders, and baggy pants.

MINIMALISM

It is believed that minimalism, as we know it now, was born twenty years ago thanks to Zander, Klein and Lang. Now their manner of displaying laconic vests with flared skirts and plain dresses in black and white colors is continued by Phoebe Faylo from Celine and Olivier Teyskens from Theory.

BULK COSTUMES AND COATS

Overseas two-piece suits, as well as a coat, as if from someone else’s shoulder, went into the nineties of the eighties. Now similar show Balmain, Christoph Lemer and Narciso Rodriguez.

GRUNGE

Get ready that next season every second shooting will be dedicated to grunge. His echoes in the form of bows entirely of shabby denim, shirts in a cage and a combination of voluminous tops and trousers with oversized leather jackets appeared in the collections of Dries Van Nothen, Henry Holland, Philip Lima and a dozen more brands.

CROPTED TOPS

Carven and Versus shortened the sweaters, Jeremy Scott - the rapper bomber, and the Band of Outsiders and Costume National - ordinary printed shirts. In general, as gloss writes, the main thing is an impeccable press.

NEON

Christopher Kane and Hussein Chalayan decided to use neon pink, yellow and green in the next season. Here you can see the influence of Asia, but we remember the culture of ravers and their crazy style.

VERTICAL STRIP AND RETROPRINT

The horizontal strip is associated with the sea theme, but the vertical one - with the nineties: a wide black-and-white one refers to grunge, and a thin one on thick fabric - to the same oversized suits. Following Kenzo in the fall-winter season, this print includes Acne in the spring-summer collection. Other prints from that decade also flicker: for example, Mark Jacobs has Mickey Mouse on a short sweater, and Jeremy Scott, recalling hip-hop, covers clothes with drawings with dollars and chains.

Fashionable films from the nineties

We would not like to say the obvious things, but state the fact: the fashion of the nineties is best studied from films made in the 1990s. Dresses for absolutely any occasion, look for the classic comedies in the classic - "Pretty Woman" with Julia Roberts and Richard Gere. How the schoolgirls got dressed in for study and outside it, are well illustrated by "Stupid" with Alicia Silverstone, alternating the checkered form (it was literally copied by Miu Miu) with the Calvin Klein dress. Minimalism is the prerogative of Sharon Stone in Basic Instinct: she wears men's shirts and neat dresses in black and white. Less stylistic, but inspirational pictures: “Party Girl”, “Romy and Michelle at the alumni meeting” and “Four weddings and funerals”. Do not forget about the TV series "Beverly Hills, 90210" and "Charmed", the heroine of which is crazy about fashion. By the way, in 1994, the watch was a must watch for all fashionistas - the film “High Fashion”, ironically showing the intrigues of the Paris Fashion Week.

Nineties style items online stores

Torn jeans, banana pants and colorful leggings are sure to gather dust in the boxes of every second Russian. Nevertheless, things referring to 1990 more gracefully should be looked for in the collections of contemporary designers.