Macrame and crochet: How the lace captured the catwalks
TELLING ABOUT TRENDS FROM PODIUM which can be adapted for your wardrobe for the next six months. It seemed that the macrame and crocheted techniques were completely handed over to the folk craftswomen creating traditional costumes. But for the second season in a row, designers returned to them in collections, combining them with the most interesting styles and performing them in unusual colors. We understand how crocheting and weaving penetrated the podiums.
How it all started
Macrame is a hand-knot weaving technique that doesn’t need tools, crocheting is a crocheted lace. Formerly, reed fibers, hair, wool, flax, hemp, cotton, and silk were used to create the corresponding items. Today synthetic yarn has been added to this list.
It may seem that macrame and crochet are originally Russian techniques - those who did not have a pair of lace napkins at home, which grandmother would have loved. However, researchers are inclined to believe that the inhabitants of Arabia did crochet (translated from French as "hook"), after which the Tibetan and Spanish masters learned about it. It is believed that macrame spread the Moors, who in the VIII century conquered Spain. The term itself appeared only after five centuries thanks to Arabic weavers, who made knots from loose threads and released fringe. This technique was used on towels and shawls, as well as on bedspreads for camels and horses, to protect them from annoying flies.
It is reliably known that even Queen Victoria herself was engaged in crocheting. Knitting and weaving have spread so much that they have become the usual leisure of many women who made the decor. In 1882 even a book was published telling about different weaving techniques, with which you can decorate home clothes, underwear and interior items.
Only in the 20s of the last century, people began to crochet whole items of clothing, and in the 60-70s there was a real knitting boom - it became a common hobby like drawing or watching TV. If you want to make something uncomplicated with your own hands, take a look at the specialized magazines of those times (too many modern ones): besides clothes, you can make shoes, hats, jewelry, bags and baskets, pieces of furniture (for example, shelves and armchairs) - in general everything what fantasy is enough for. How about a Christmas tree, made in the technique of macrame? The Vogue magazine even published a book about weaving, calling it a "new chic" - and is it worth talking further about the popularity of knitting when even Clint Eastwood took part in shooting in a vest with a pattern of "grandma's square"?
How is knitting back in fashion
In the 2000s, this kind of thing could be found only in specialized magazines, and only occasionally on the podium. The exception is, for example, the Kenzo show of 2005, where they showed ponchos with square patterns. In principle, designers didn’t immediately use macrame and crochet in a modern way: for example, the 2009 Chanel show, where among other things knitted clothes were presented, specifically referred to craft or village aesthetics: with hay, wooden clogs, baskets and linen sundresses. Partly on these techniques built business brand Missoni, whose old collections, such as autumn-winter 2010, it is interesting to consider today. From the love of the "grandmother's square" they continue to not refuse.
In 2011, Christopher Kane created a whole collection using crochet, showing that crocheted things can look modern. The 2014 Miu Miu resort collection looks fresh and harmonious even today: bright waistcoats with square patterns are combined with flying blouses and colorful trousers. Crochet uses J.W.Anderson in his collections: he seems to deliberately do things in a “traditional” style, choosing an unusual cut, colors and patterns. Last year, brands like Burberry, Altuzarra, Pringle of Scotland and Jil Sander paid attention to vintage vehicles, suggesting to wear vests with square patterns, large-knit sweaters, skirts with a fringe of thread and dresses with holes.
What to wear
Macrame products will most likely have decorative holes or large weaving, so they can shine through. These should be worn over the rest of the clothes: it can be vests, cardigans, skirts and dresses (following the example of Proenza Schlouler, Christian Dior and Chloé). Knitwear is a great pair for swimsuits, small sundresses and shorts: it is convenient to throw them on or quickly change into them on the beach or by the pool.
Of course, knitted clothes can be worn as separate items. Try to find "modern" options - for example, unusual pastel colors, like this dress Acne Studios, or with a rich decor, like Balmain. But do not write off traditional patterns: as we see in the Burberry collection, they will perfectly fit into all today's trends.
In addition, macrame and crochet are called one of the simplest techniques - a good chance to try to do things yourself and not buy new ones. For example, designer Menelek Rose created the first crochet turtleneck, looking at instructions on YouTube. Now crochet is his business card. Try it and you.
Photo: Etsy Studio, Zara, Anthropologie, Mirstores
