Skirts below the knee in new collections
IN A CONSTANT WONDERZINE HEAD talks about trends from the podium that can be adapted for your wardrobe for the next six months. In this issue we understand how midi skirts have increased in popularity over the past few seasons, and by the fall of this year they finally became the most sought after length.
How it all began
The most popular skirt length in the 20s and 30s of the last century was just the length to the middle of the calf. It was comfortable and practical and corresponded to the emancipated spirit of the time: midi skirts were suitable for both playing tennis and jazz parties (they did not interfere with dancing) and even more so for work. At that time, the girls just stopped hiding the bends of the body under things and, on the contrary, began to emphasize them. Popular were midi skirts with cutouts, opening legs, and pleated. In addition, in the 30s, Moline tweed woolen costumes were popular: Parisian couturiers offered midi skirts with elongated wine and beige color jackets. In the 40s, the midi skirt was considered rather a utilitarian thing, and the consumption of fabric for its production was strictly regulated.
The length of the midi has retained its popularity until the 1960s and the invention of the first miniskirt, but even then quickly returned to fashion as an answer to the fatigue of short length. In 1967, the movie "Bonnie and Clyde" was released with Faye Dunaway and Warren Beatty, starring American fashion during the Great Depression. The image of Faye Dunaway in a beret and midi skirt instantly became canonical, and by the 70th the length below the knee finally and irrevocably returned to the female wardrobe and remained there a constant until our time. In the 80s, midi skirts become multi-layered and even shapeless, and by the 90s they are monochrome and concise.
How to wear midi skirts now
They started talking about midi skirts a year ago, and by the fall-winter 2014 season they became the most popular length. The only difference is that now designers have finally switched to a dangerous length below the knee and ankle, in some cases close to maxi. In the fall, designers offer voluminous heavy plain skirts made of wool, from the increasingly popular khaki color to fuchsia - these are what we see at Marni and Céline. J.W. Anderson - heavy velvet skirts of sculptural cut, almost to the ankle length; u Calvin Klein - narrowed knit. Prada is styled with transparent midi dresses with heavy jackets. Acne shows skirts made of leather with a deep cut, and also combines skirts with outdoor-top (windbreakers, parks, shawls) and psychedelic prints are applied to skirts. Sacai show two extremes: heavy asymmetric wrap skirts and transparent pleated midi length skirts. Meadham Kirchhoff - very long tweed skirts paired with metallic boots, boots and transparent blouses. THE ROW - classic wearable plain skirts: gray, milky-white, black - all paired with men's shoes and wool socks. By the spring of 2015, Jonathan Anderson is creating monochrome midi skirts with symmetrical cuts, and with them maxi-length skirts. At the same time, Marni continues to support the trend for transparent things, showing absolutely “naked” midi skirts in the cruise collection.
Watch out!
A medium-length skirt fits perfectly for autumn: it looks elegant, goes to almost everything and looks beautiful from under a long coat. Shoes in both men's style and heels midi skirt only decorates. The length of the skirt this season is close to maxi and can be insidious: one that is below the knee and comes to the ankle can visually spoil the figure. It is necessary to wear this length carefully so as not to turn into a bell in sneakers. Bail out here can heel or shoes on a massive platform (on the second path are Stella McCartney and Phoebe Failo). Asymmetric midi skirts with a wrap and low neckline are another popular model - this more than compensates for the austere length.
PHOTO: Sipa Press / Fotodom (2), Getty Images / Fotobank (2)