The best thing that happened on fashion weeks in Moscow
Text: Olesya Iva
After the world fashion weeksin London, New York, Milan and Paris, it was the turn of local ones, where designers showed collections of the fall and winter of 2015-2016. In Moscow, as in Kiev, they cannot resolve the issue of organizing one, but high-quality fashion week, like all over the world. Instead, we simultaneously have two at once: Fashion Week in Moscow in Gostiny Dvor and Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia in the building of the Manege, and besides them there are presentations and shows in separate venues. We talk about the best shows and presentations that we saw in Moscow, and explain how important they are.
ZDDZ London
Petersburg Dasha Selyanova develops her brand by leaps and bounds. She has participated in the VFILES show and collaborated with the Fashion Scout platform in Paris. Things ZDDZ flash in the shooting of publications from Vice and Vogue Italia to the covers of the magazine "Poster". Against the background of his Moscow colleagues, Dasha looks more progressive than many more experienced designers. Instead of a classic show, it takes on a presentation format promising for young brands and arranges it on the 11th floor of the business center, in the office of Kuznetsky Most 20. The presentation is characterized by a variety of model types: ZDDZ invited 10 guys from Lumpen agency and just Instagram users. The Selyanova team skillfully promotes the brand with the help of social networks, and in support of the collection, makes a video about the dreams and thoughts of the young. The designer's collection includes skirts, short tops and a lot of unisex items: turtlenecks, wide trousers, jackets, shirts, sweaters, hoodie, boxy jackets and bombers. All this you want to wear here and now and change clothes with guys.
Cap America and J.Kim
Designers Zhenya Kim and Olga Shurygin joined forces and arranged a joint presentation, which took place throughout the day. We emphasize once again the convenience of this format: the editors of the fashion could come at a convenient time, calmly communicate with the designers and consider the collection, and customers could try on new things and even pre-order something on the spot. The J.Kim collection has distinguished itself with traditionally small decorative details and hand-made silk embroidery. Especially his wife succeeded flared with cuts, double-breasted jackets, skirts with appliqués and ribbons, blouses with bows, laconic monophonic dresses. Although the designer skillfully deals with the theme of the Korean traditional costume, we expect more of such wearable things from Eugene. The collection of the brand Olga Shurygina Cap America looked less developed and, perhaps, against the background of her previous work, even weak. It is evident that the designer was in a hurry. Although it is difficult not to mention a blue coat with a cut on the back, as well as a gray sheath dress that will definitely be in demand. We hope that the collection of the Cap America lookbook will be improved.
Yasya minochkina
Yasia Minochkina, who lives in several cities, is already a frequenter of the Moscow Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia. I must say, its show for the third season in a row revives the schedule and compares favorably with many. The new collection turned out to be even more youth than the previous one. Here we must add: sorry, not at youth prices. Multicolored parks, shiny kozhzam coats, short skirts and pencil skirts, jackets with colored fur collars, flared pants, V-neck sweaters - all things are wearable and fit together. They Yasya stylized with colorful sneakers adidas Superstar. The guests of the show clearly saw that electrician-colored sneakers are good with pink and gold items, and crimson ones with turquoise.
Walk of shame
Andrei Artyomov traditionally made a show on a separate site, this time in the strict Soviet interiors of the Tretyakov Gallery on Krymsky Val. Artyomov worked the theme of the 70s most brightly in the new season, showing flared trousers, trapezoid skirts, laconic color suits. The collection also had things charged to Moscow: gold and purple dresses on the figure, fur coats. Artyomov, a rare designer who showed work with vinyl (we sleep and see a vinyl black cape), continued to work with the linen theme and used layering, wearing long-sleeved tops for dresses of models. Separately, you can note denim, bra-tops with a knot, cropped sweaters, shirts and jackets with patch pockets. Styling is not in the eyebrow, but in the eye: with a trendy "throat" and neat sandals.
Alexander Arutyunov
Excessive decorativeness, feathers, beads, gold, glass beads - Alexander Arutyunov is loved in Moscow, and it is clear why. The designer surprisingly manages to cross Georgian motifs with Russian glamor so that it does not cause irritation, but on the contrary makes you take a closer look. In the new collection, Alexander turned to the works of Niko Pirosmani and Lado Gudiashvili, and also rethought the silhouettes of fashion fleppers of the 20s. So, on the catwalk they walked through models in luxurious things, decorated with embroidery and patterns, colored fur coats, silk dresses with a slit from the hip. Some practically couture things can be taken directly to the archives of the future Arutyunov Museum, for example, a red ball gown to the floor. Separately, we can say about the bags, backpacks and boxes, which the designer succeeds from season to season. You can blame the literal styling and excessive theatricality. The logic is clear: if the 20s, then more pearls and large earrings, briolin and eyebrows-strings. Obviously, you should think exactly the opposite.
Alena akhmadullina
Alena Akhmadullina is a designer known for her work with Russian fairy tales and symbols and other folk motifs. Floral designs and dresses in the floor - what you expect from each of its collections. We saw all this, but Alyona was surprised. The designer began to change and included in the collection laconic, wearable things like overalls from denim, a shortened orange jacket with pockets, short trapezoid skirts and simple T-shirts. In addition, Alyona showed successful work with colored fur and presented shoes from the collaboration with the Econika network - no less than slipons and pastel-colored treads on a flat sole. Styling was a success not only in terms of shoes: the models were made with natural make-up and disheveled tails, and fashionable unpaired earrings were selected for the dresses.
Design Bureau "Army of Russia"
As we know, a Petersburg designer Leonid Alekseev closed the Leonid Alexeev clothing line a year ago and started a new project called “The Army of Russia” at the Ministry of Defense. Now he is responsible for the visual style of the Russian army. One of the main tasks facing Leonid was to make the army attractive and, I must say, in terms of the design of the uniform, he succeeded. In the footsteps of Gosha Rubchinsky, Leonid turned to the Russian street subcultures. The collection includes sweatpants, balaclava, T-shirts, leather bombers, anoraks, pants with patch pockets, sweatshirts and long shorts. Cuts, materials, colors - all this, of course, was succeeded by the designer, if you do not take into account the ideological component: the things are decorated with the slogans "Politeness of the city takes", "Polite", "Army". Some black and white bows can be easily imagined at a witch house rave, but whether the patriots will appreciate the style is a question. All items in the collection will soon appear in the ent.
Natali Leskova
Among the fashion shows of Moscow fashion week designers who create wearable things for sane money, and therefore available to a wide range of people - in the afternoon with fire. The designer from Petersburg, Natasha Leskova, is a rare exception. Recall that Leskova is known for its things with prints with views of St. Petersburg. The types and beauty of the beloved city, in this collection is the Yusupov Palace on the Moika, Natasha continues to carry to the masses. Images of the palace appear on A-silhouette dresses, skirts, tops, capes. Separately, we can say about the successful work with a single denim and a dense cotton. Especially the designer succeed overalls and trousers with high waist. What is the failure, it is in the styling of the show. Curls, excessive accessories and clogs - not the best idea for feminine things. For example, a smooth tail, lack of jewelry and slipona would look better. Regarding the design, questions were caused by ribbons resembling a Raffaello gift wrapper, as well as light capes.
Ria keburia
Ria Keburiya, a young avant-garde designer with Georgian roots, presented the collection also separately from fashion weeks in the courts of Ostozhenka. It should be noted that Riya is a brave and almost the only designer in Moscow who addressed the subject of baroque in the new season. The topic is, frankly, not an easy one, but Keburia was able to submit it freshly. The designer uses luxurious fabrics like colored lace and organza imitating patterns from Renaissance paintings, while showing things of a sharp, geometric cut and using modern fabrics like fleece. The collection includes straight coats, asymmetrical dresses and skirts, straight trousers, bombers. Interesting work with color and texture. In this collection, Ria collaborates with Georgian jeweler Sofo Gongliashvili, as well as Dmitry Shabalin. Sofo made enamel jewelry with robots, and Dima made transformer masks. Ria has plans to create perfume this summer. We are looking forward to it.
RUBAN
The RUBAN sisters show closed Moscow Fashion Week. Designers have proven: luxurious minimalism is something that the Russian fashion lacks, and it is clear why. Minimalism is a complex area that requires an ideal cut, adjusted to the millimeter, pure colors and expensive fabrics. RUBAN succeeded. In addition, they brought their collection to couture, showing complex hand-made decorative trim. This is where the value of modern luxury lies. So, the smooth surface of fabrics from wool to organza was decorated with finely cut parts made from the same fabric. Thanks to this, even voluminous coats looked weightless. The entire collection is wearable, and things can easily be combined with each other, be it a voluminous overcoat of a milky color, a laconic dress, trousers, a top or a skirt, or large knit sweaters.