From cuffs to chokers: Young Russian jewelry brands
BEGIN YOUR BUSINESS IN THE FRAMEWORK OF TODAY'S RUSSIAN REALITY - enterprise preselozhnoe, especially if it concerns the production of clothing, footwear or accessories. In a series of materials we talk about young local brands united by a certain segment: leather trivia, lingerie, shoes or basic things.
In the past couple of years, there has been a trend to learn jewelry. Today, decorations do little, it seems, in general, but to debug production processes to launch your own brand is obtained from units. Worthy and those who did not give up in the face of the first difficulties, and even less. We collected ten Russian brands of jewelry, which all turned out.
Anima
Stylist Mikhail Baryshnikov, whose jewelry brand was launched at the beginning of this year, admits that he always liked jewelry: “I have long wanted to do this and even studied small form design. I made my first products for my mother in elementary school with wire and stunningly beautiful transparent red capsules stolen from grandma. " One of those jewelry eventually became the prototype of the first Anima jewelry line. Brand production is based in a small workshop in Moscow. In terms of materials, the designer prefers gold, silver and natural stones - rare and atypical: "I choose natural raw materials and strictly select myself. Finding stones that have not been refined is a big and complex story, and finding them in the right quality, size and processing - in general the most important task, but so far it turns out.
Anima jewelry will appeal to those who love stones, but do not want to look pretentious or, on the contrary, boring. The brand relies on a wide audience: "These are both girls who earn a little but want to wear jewelry rather than jewelry, and wealthy people who are tired of excessive luxury." Mikhail seeks to ensure that Anima products look sophisticated and simple, they could be worn every day and not removed at all. The prices for Anima jewelry start from 5 thousand rubles, some variants with rare stones can cost 45 thousand.
Himère
One of the most inspiring stories associated with the young Russian jewelry brands is the creation of the Himère brand. Her founder, Dina Sagidullina, worked for a long time in the field of finance, but at some point decided to drastically change her life and start making jewelery. Especially in order to understand the process of production from and to, she got a job in a jewelry workshop. Since then, the Saghidullina brand, specializing in minimalist and laconic decorations, has been a successful example for others.
Since the end of 2012, the year of the actual foundation of Himère, not much has changed: “Our production is still in Moscow, it’s just that there are more employees”. Dina has a team of professionals who cares about the common cause, the girl herself is in charge of production and is engaged in sketches, concept, promotion and occasionally works in the workshop herself. Pendants with tassels, earrings in the form of delicate threads, threaded into a needle, cuffs that can be worn in the nose and on the lip - the Himère line of jewelery is replenished regularly. Elegant, not massive, but interesting and noticeable - it is difficult to imagine clothes to which they would not fit.
The prices for Himère jewelery vary according to the materials used. So, a bracelet-string with semiprecious stones will cost 2,000 rubles, and for a silver ring on the phalanx of a finger be prepared to pay 3,500 rubles.
anna.m.objects
Mark anna.m.objects launched restaurant critic Anna Maslovskaya two years ago. The impetus for her was a common problem - the girl could not find any jewelry she would like. “I am a designer-designer of clothes by training, since childhood I have been painting and sewing, and the idea of doing something with my hands was clear and natural to me,” says Anna. “The occupation quickly dragged on. It turned out that this was what I missed for the last five years diving into journalism - defacing manicure and burning fingers. "
Today, Anna combines two full-fledged classes: on weekdays she works as editor-in-chief of the Food section on the Daily Billboard website, and on weekends she combines the duties of a jeweler, designer, manager and strategist anna.m.objects. Each decoration of the brand has a unique shape and is made by hand, only some elements are cast, mainly for earrings. Initially, Anna made thin graceful rings on the middle and lower phalanges, which could be combined into sets and worn every day in different ways, building new combinations of silver and gold — yellow, white, and pink.
Since the founding of anna.m.objects, the line of jewelery has expanded considerably: "Now I make chains and rings of yellow gold with agate, in the style of the 70s, as well as double and triple rings-waves, where each is made of gold of a different color. Above the other products are worked by two other jewelers, with whom I cooperate from the very beginning and from whom I study. " The division of production is connected, firstly, with a shortage of time: the demand for jewelry anna.m.objects is much higher than the number of products that Anna can produce independently. Secondly, she finds new design ideas all the time and improves her skills: "I always do the first models myself, then transfer the production technology to my jewelers and switch to the development of new products." Anna tests all the jewelry before selling herself and her close ones: "A sock is necessary for several weeks to check whether this is really the ideal form. Products should be comfortable and not be afraid of environmental influences." In the near future, the girls are working with stones, shooting the first full-fledged lookbook and capturing new points of sale.
Bluebox
Marka was founded by Galina Denisova, who has extensive experience in the fashion industry, but mainly in retail - in her track record and opening Gianfranco Ferré and Versace boutiques in the 90s, and developing the concept of the cult shoe store and accessories Birch. Why did Galina decide to retrain as a jewelry designer? "I always liked lace and subtlety, hence the craving for exquisite products. I travel around the world, I see a lot of interesting things in Asia, New York or Paris. And I wanted people in Moscow to have access to interesting and affordable too I pay attention to this - decoration. " Her jewelry brand Bluebox is engaged in the production of delicate jewelry with precious stones: you can find here the finest chains, rings on phalanxes and pendants-droplets. Materials - gold and precious stones - Denisova brings from different countries. She prefers "pink sapphire, topaz and, of course, emeralds and diamonds - classic cut and chipped, so-called raw diamonds". On average, Bluebox rings will cost 10 thousand rubles, and pendants - 13 thousand rubles. All decorations can be purchased through Instagram.
Natalia Bryantseva
Designer Natalya Bryantseva founded her jewelry brand in Yekaterinburg. Despite the fact that the products of her name are sold throughout Russia, production is still based in the Urals. All decorations are made by hand. "In the experimental workshop, the first copies of the new models are made, in the production one - casting and more technologically complex products", explains Bryantseva. The brand almost does not use ready-made factory-cut stones and prefers to cut them on its own here, in Yekaterinburg. Natalia works with white metal (silver or gold), colored stones, and also uses enamel. The designer says about his jewelry that they are at the same time minimalistic, technological and ironic - those that they want to wear without taking off. In Moscow, Natalia Bryantseva products can be purchased at "Sugar "and Poison Drop, and in St. Petersburg - in the Laboratory. Elegant bright studs (from 3900 rubles), three-finger rings (from 6 thousand rubles) and cuffs on a chain will surely please those who love concise, but not boring jewelry.
Maria stern
Perhaps the most famous brand from the entire list, which thanks to social networks has already managed to acquire an army of fans. Over the past couple of years, the brand changed several serious points of sale at once - Maria Stern products could be bought in Kuznetsky Most 20 and in Birch. Today, the brand's decorations on exclusive rights are represented in TSUM. The decision to engage in the production of jewelry came from the 20-year-old Maria Stern because of the personal need for neat rings that she could not find anywhere. Then she found the masters in Moscow and made the first gold jewelry from her sketches.
Stern products using large pearls - cuffs, mono-rings and rings are very popular. “Pearls are amazing material, natural and beautiful. The main idea was to show him exactly, cut off all unnecessary things and create an effect as if the pearls just lay on their hands,” says the designer. Today, the brand line has expanded significantly. In addition to the traditional minimalist products using pearls, Maria Stern produces jewelry in the style of the 90s: chokers and earrings, textured rings and much more. Prices for products of the brand start from 12 thousand rubles. So, a black silver cuff will cost about 25 thousand rubles, and a gold-plated choker will cost about 22 thousand rubles.
Maya kotelnitskaya
Maya Kotelnitskaya founded her own workshop in 2008 after graduating from the Lviv Academy of Arts, where she studied at the art metal department and received her first knowledge of jewelry. “When I entered the academy, I still didn’t know what I wanted to do, and eventually went to the department of artistic metalworking,” says the designer. “I liked making jewelry - the process itself is interesting. It was especially inspiring that the idea could be translated into material and then another and wear the result every day. "
Now there are two jewelers working with a girl in the workshop and two managers in the office who distribute. In Moscow, Maya Kotelnitskaya jewelery can be bought at Depst, Sakharok, Click-boutique stores. Kotelnitskaya loves to combine different materials, textures and colors and uses silver, brass, glass and ceramics. The bracelet of the brand of silver and quartz will cost an average of 5 thousand rubles, and brass and glass earrings - 4500 rubles. In the near future, the girl with the team plans to attend SIERAAD exhibitions in Amsterdam and Inhorgenta in Munich.
48
For minimalistic, but unusual and self-sufficient products, which are produced under the brand name 48, two people are responsible: Ilya Kuznetsov and Lera Treyger. "I, as an architect, always very strictly approached the choice of jewelry, so it was interesting to make a few rings for myself, and Ilya, who has experience of working with metal as a sculptor, has helped me with this," Lera says. - So together we mastered the subtleties of soldering and polishing silver. " Trayger wore her first jewelery, while others asked what it was and where it came from. This prompted the partners to first make a capsule collection of jewelry for friends and acquaintances, and then completely launch their own brand.
Now five people are constantly working on the products of the brand, the most difficult thing was to ensure a sufficient amount of products: "All our jewelry is handmade, they cannot be put on stream. And, oddly enough, it is difficult to find jewelers working manually and keeping the same level of quality. which we originally set ourselves. " When the guys were just starting their own business, they immediately decided to concentrate on two directions: the first is the decoration of linear, geometric shapes, the second is products with smoother, curvilinear outlines (rings and cuffs with pearls). Hence the brand name was born: "48 is a laconic combination of both."
Jewelry brands are made of gold, silver, marble and freshwater pearls. Thus, in the New Year's capsule collection 48, emphasis was placed on the combination of yellow gold and silver. While the production of the brand is located in a temporary workshop, the guys meet with buyers in the showroom on the Old Arbat (by prior arrangement) and on all sorts of city markets. Jewelry 48 can also be purchased at the Khokhlovka store.
Qari Qris
Gentle jewelry from silver Qari Qris makes Anastasia Davydova, and her husband helps her in this. By education she is a biologist, but in parallel with university education she graduated from art school. Subsequently, Davydova also mastered the profession of porcelain restorer and worked in an antique salon for several years: “I restored broken vases, statuettes, and molded broken fingers to old porcelain dolls. My main tools were a file, a drill and an airbrush. changed to less plastic. " At some point, even the most difficult work began to be given to Anastasia easily, and she wanted to create something of her own. The logical end of the search for yourself was the launch of the Qari Qris brand.
The idea of its creation came to Davydova at that moment when she and her husband decided to order handmade wedding rings: “Looking at them, I realized that this is it! This is what I want and can do, - miniature products from unyielding at first glance material. " Since then, it is. In fact, spouses work together. “I develop the design, and we refine the idea and make the decorations together,” Anastasia says. “We do everything completely by hand. We allocated a room in the apartment for the workshop, and in the spring we move to the country with all the equipment, we live and work there until the autumn.” Of the materials, the pair prefer silver and lately actively use black rhodium plating. "We also love dark pearls, semiprecious stones of monochrome tones and blue color." Sensual, but not catchy, according to the idea of the creators of the jewelry Qari Qris are designed to highlight the natural beauty. Earrings from black cubic zirconia and silver cost around 5 thousand rubles, and earrings from rhodium silver - 3500 rubles.
ANOTHERONEjwlry
ANOTHERONEjwlry jewelery has no pronounced gender affiliation; both girls and young people can wear them. Initially, the brand was based in Krasnodar, but in the last six months it has been developing in Moscow. For her creator Nastya Korotkova, everything began as an experiment: "I am interested in pagan cults, primitive fetishism and primitive jewelry. At some point, the idea to rethink these forms in new ways and in other materials appeared." Shortly before that, Korotkova quit her studies at the institute, where she received a design education, and she wanted new impressions and experience. Now Nastya combines the work of the designer, jeweler and manager of ANOTHERONEjwlry, developing and promoting the brand alone.
It is inspired by primitivism: "I make massive, roughly processed products. I don’t work with stones, my jewelry is free from any decorativeness, they can be combined with any clothing." Korotkova works in a small home workshop, which is a place of strength and concentration of all working processes: "Here the metal melts and is molded according to the forms I have developed - I create all the products manually, constantly experimenting with textures and metal processing, so there are no two identical products." Least of all forces are spent on brand promotion - according to Korotkova, it is much more important to master new techniques, 3D modeling and hone the skills of a jeweler. She uses copper, tin and silver in her work. Brand jewelry can be bought at the Khokhlovka store, as well as ordered on the Lambada website or in person by writing a girlfriend on Facebook. A phalanx ring will cost an average of 1,500 rubles, and transformer earrings will cost 2,500 rubles.
Photo: cover photo via ANOTHERONEjwlry