6 of the highlights of the New York Fashion Week
Text: Sasha Rukavishnikova
February is a hot time for the fashion industry: London Fashion Week is already in full swing in the British capital, where everyone flew in from the States at once. Summing up the fashioned New York Fashion Week, in which the best American brands showed their new collections. We chose the 6 most interesting shows of NYFW and tell us how they impressed everyone.
Alexander Wang
At the beginning of the NYFW, the invitees to the Alexander Wang show faced an atypical question: how to get from Manhattan to Brooklyn. It was in the new Brooklyn ecofrendi space Duggal Greenhouse, and not in the usual Lincoln Center that Alexander Wang was shown. Pulling more than a hundred dandies on a Saturday morning to Brooklyn is a big risk, but the urban collection fully justified it. In addition to the relevant coat and knitted things in the city in the fall, the designer once again exploits the pocket. Now he came up with a separate pocket for Moleskine, which, in his opinion, is appropriate even on dresses, jackets, coats and skirts. In addition to the moleskin, there is a place in it for lipstick, pen, phone and other trifles necessary for the city dweller. Such aesthetically correct and functional clothing destroys the bag as a necessary accessory, and many of us will say thank you for it. Wang, like other designers this season, worked with metal textures, but remained true to himself, choosing black as the base of the collection. Model composition is also striking: Karly Kloss, Anya Vyalitsyna, Joan Smalls, Daria Strokous - and this is not a complete list. The Alexander Wang show is definitely one of the best events of this New York week, if not the best.
Hood by air
Another highlight of this Fashion Week in New York was the second big show Hood by Air. The brand, founded by member of the duet GHE20 G0TH1K Shane Oliver, blurs the boundaries between high fashion and street clothes, fashion shows and performance. Yes, in fact, HBAs make a street brand, but these, of course, are not clothes for poor skaters. Models for the show were selected using street casting, which is typical for the genre - as a result, guys in leather jackets with lacing, free pants with HBO logos and bulky shoes stalked the podium. At the end they were joined by a crowd of dancers in jeans and wigs, becoming part of the final passage. Hood by Air seem free from all stereotypes - despite the conventions of the genre, their display was a triumph of diversity and mad energy.
The row
Who would have thought that Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen from not the most outstanding actresses (unlike their younger sister Elizabeth) will grow into designers with quite decent clothes. The latest collection of the Olsen brand The Row is distinguished by its quality - the laudatory critical article on Style.com is almost entirely devoted to the amazing cashmere and satin that used Mary-Kate and Ashley. The collection itself was sustained in their usual minimalist style: calm colors, minimal details, free cut - not an attractive luxury, which moves from season to season. Olsen sisters, successful and talented star designers, do not behave for a second like typical celebrities who create collections for themselves. In this sense, they will always be ahead of Kanye West, whose collection perished under the weight of her own ego, and even the very trying Victoria Beckham. Victoria will always dress Victoria, as well as Kanye will always wear Kanye. Everything is different with the Olsen sisters: they broadcast their own style, but they also see their audience behind it. Starting with the democratic Elizabeth and James, they have grown to collaborate with the outstanding contemporary artist Damien Hirst, creating together a collection of excellent backpacks. The creativity of the sisters has long received its "Moments of New York", maybe the next step is "Passport to Paris"?
Rodarte
Last season, Kate and Laura Mallivi, Rodarte brand designers, turned to the 1980s Los Angeles theme. The Beverly Hills 90210, Melrose Place and Venice Beach inspired the brand for a bold collection with leopard jackets, high-waisted shorts and caps backwards. Critics were outraged: will the new collection like customers, because Rodarte is a luxury brand, and now it turns out that you can buy about the same things in Urban Outfitters? The controversy ended quickly - I liked the collection. This season, Rodarte again turned to the South Coast and to Hollywood, showing a collection that had fascinated geeks based on Star Wars. Evening dresses with Luke Skywalker, C-3PO and Master Yoda are the last three and three most important bows. The show also featured brilliant coats of bright colors, berets and shawls, light flowing dresses of pink, white, blue and black with splashes of beads. It seemed as though fall / winter 2014 would do without Darth Vader, but thanks to the London collection of Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, the forces of good and evil in the fashion industry are balanced.
Jeremy scott
Surprisingly, designer Jeremy Scott, obsessed with pop culture, turned out to be the most predictable hero of New York fashion week: everyone was expecting something eccentric from him - and they got it. Last season in his collection were things with a print reminiscent of a preventive headband on TV, costumes made from skin the color of strawberry ice cream, as well as skirts and pants almost based on comic books about Spider-Man. In the current one, the designer showed clothes inspired by the aesthetics of American football. The show opened with a red shaggy long dress with the number 26, and after it we were shown a swimsuit from football protection, a suit made of patches, a mini-dress resembling a sports sock and other football uniform details adapted to more casual clothes. In general, Jeremy Scott has fully worked out the favorite sport of Americans. Closed the show dress in the form of a leaky sock, and behind it came the designer himself.
Marc by marc jacobs
The past year was not easy for Marc Jacobs: he abandoned Louis Vuitton, gave his youth brand Marc by Marc Jacobs in good hands, leaving only the most important of his brainchild - Marc Jacobs. While the new creative director of Louis Vuttion, Nicolas Ghesquière, is preparing for his first show, Mark removed Miley Cyrus in an advertising campaign for his brand, presented a new collection at New York Fashion Week, and brought sister Kim Kardashian Kendall Jenner to the podium, whose debut at the show (and especially her breasts) made a lot of noise. But the real sensation of the past week was the show "Marc by Marc Jacobs". Katie Hiller and Luella Bartley, the new line designers, did a great job. The concept of the show was designed in the spirit of "ninja pop military" - military-style suits with wide belts, as if for kyudo, voluminous skirts, tops with huge bows, dresses and jackets of bright colors with the words "Revolution" and "Bunny Hop" combined with heavy boots and bandanas tied to the lower part of the face. Pigtails and headbands perfectly complement the rebellious style in the spirit of Tank Girl. Jacobs in a scarlet outfit from a sweater and pants Adidas was present at the show as a guest. Everyone applauded Luelle Bartley and Katie Hiller standing. However, Jacobs himself did not remain without applause either - he was still presenting his collection for Marc Jacobs in the same red dress the next day. NYFW did not leave questions behind itself, except for one thing: why did Mark himself wear the same outfit for almost a week?
PHOTO: Getty Images / Fotobank (10)