80s on the podium and in the cinema: The most fashionable era is back
Small trends like floral prints characteristic of the upcoming season or yellow color, they say little about the world around, another thing is large-scale comeback styles from different decades. After the 70s, 90s, and partly zero, the 80s are back on the agenda: trend analysts have already called the golden decade of Michael Jackson, Madonna, Princess Diana and John Hughes "the decade of the year." And it comes not only on the podium - we tell how and why this happens.
On TV
One of the main pop cultural events of last summer was the release of "Stranger Things" - a fantastic Netflix series with Winona Ryder and a whole brigade of new kids-stars, ideally designed in the style of fiction of the 80s. In the fall, the third season of the Black Mirror was shown - and although all the new series were excitedly discussed, the audience award went to San Junipero: stories about the love of two girls who met in the virtual space where the eternal idyllic 80s reign. In the fall, they announced the start of filming of a remake of Dynasty, a landmark American show that went from 1981 to 1989, that is, it captured the entire decade.
Those who were teenagers in the 80s, have long grown and are ready to plunge into tender nostalgia. But it was not their attention that made Stranger Things popular and made thousands of people listen to Belinda Joe Carlisle's Heaven Is a Place on Earth from the Black Mirror soundtrack. “Nostalgic Therapy”, developed in the near future in the universe of the usually gloomy series, turned out to be an ideal cure for political unrest for all people in 2016. Even the headlines talked about this directly: "The magic series that will help you get out of Trump's head" is probably the most revealing of all. Something by today's standards is slightly naive, touching and vaguely familiar - this is exactly what people needed, and that was what they were offered references to the 80s era, which could be noticed last year.
In 2017, the trend promises to develop in the same vigorous way: the second season of "Stranger Things", which will fall on 1984, will start in July. The fashion industry responded as promptly to the interest of the 80th - for example, the star of the series Millie Bobby Brown Raf Simons invited Calvin Klein to an advertising campaign. The trend will reign on the streets this spring: the trending agencies have unanimously declared the 80s one of the main directions of the season. The press widely quoted the report of the analytical company Edited, which in its conviction is not alone.
In fashion
For several seasons, the 70s reigned in fashion: consumers were already tired of them, but the designers didn’t want to loosen their grip. The 90s were added to them, which, too, having returned to the fashion, have not gone out of it since: the same references, themes and things still ply over collections of different brands. The 80s surfaced only occasionally - they were recalled, for example, by Jonathan Anderson and Olivier Rusten.
The new eighty-ethnic wave was outlined last season: by the fall of 2016, not only Anderson and Rusten stood on the side of this decade, but also Edie Sliman, Isabelle Maran, Jeremy Scott. In the summer, everything that other designers have just outlined has been brought to the absolute in his interseasonal collection by Marc Jacobs. This, perhaps, was a surprise: since the departure of Louis Vuitton, it seemed that an American existed independently, not reacting to general trends. But it was he who, ahead of the rest, was able to catch the planned wave of interest to the 80th - and completely shamelessly gathered all the signs of the decade at once, leaving almost nothing to followers. By the spring of 2017, the trend became truly massive, capturing both Louis Vuitton, and Chanel, and Balenciaga, and Gucci, and dozens of fashionable houses on a smaller scale.
A sign of the return of the era were, of course, broad, underlined massive shoulders. Someone, like, for example, Demny Gvasalia, the 80s mixed with the post-Soviet 90s - which is also explained by the fact that it was at this time that Western culture rushed into the countries of the former Soviet Union: films and music and fashion magazines. Therefore, for example, the recent Bevza collection, recently shown at Fashion Week in Kiev, will seem to the Western viewer as a clear greeting to the 80th - and will remind the Russian or Ukrainian rather about the next decade.
Of course, influence was not limited to overhead shoulders. The 80s revived the passion of dressing up, dictating the obligatory celebration of the holiday every day: "party-like" images with ruffles, curls, bright colors, deep cuts and prints are back on stage. The passion for large volumes has spread to all the elements of clothing: more voluminous suits, as if from someone else’s shoulder, and wide trousers are returning to men's fashion. As befits a "real" 80th, another tendency has emerged, as if contradicting the previous one: a combination of emphasized bulk blouses and tops with skinny jeans and even leggings.
Thanks to the Hillary Clinton campaign, everyone started talking again about power suits - women's trouser suits. The term itself came from the same 80s, although its embodiment at that time looked different: they consisted of jackets and skirts. Later, in the early 1990s, American women senators (there were seven in Washington at that time - so they proudly declared 1992 the "Year of Women") under the leadership of Barbara Mikulski and Carol Mosley Brown even arranged a Pantsuit Rebellion: work dress The code obliged them to go to the office in suits with skirts, and they had to defend the right to the trousers. In general, the fascination with fashion politics and the removal of political slogans on clothing are also the discovery of the 1980s.
Then this wave was asked by a British woman, Katherine Hamnett, whose T-shirts called for banning nuclear weapons (the designer once came to meet with Margaret Thatcher in a vest with such a slogan), abandon wars and, for example, do not forget about the importance of using condoms. This last motto is familiar to Debbie Harry's fans from the famous photo with which the singer, wearing the top “Debbie Says Use Condoms”, strictly looks at the camera.
How to wear today
The style of the decades preceding the 80th is easy to use without impressing the person who escaped from a costume party or a minute ago got out of the time machine. The lightweight new look of the 50s, the love of mini and the geometry of the 60s, the "boho-chic" of the 70s do not guarantee the risk of looking too theatrical. However, the 80s, a decade of intense, brought into fashion the habit of "exhibiting" and love for the best at once, is another matter.
The icons of the epoch were bright and noticeable: both on the stage, and on the first videotapes with aerobics, and in clubs, and on the streets. From the habit of dressing up like the last time the modern world, accustomed to comfort, has lost the habit (fashion weeks are not counted) - therefore, in a concentrated image, directly copied from the 80s, it is easy to feel like a stranger from another planet. This is what many advise to avoid, using only one or two signs of the decade: a broad-shouldered jacket, a printed blouse with puffy sleeves, huge earrings, com-jeans or spacious trousers with tucks, a "political" T-shirt and bright make-up made with sparkles and rich pink blush . Total Luke usually offer to leave for events originally declared as "the party of the 80s". However, it was the feeling of stylistic permissiveness that made this decade special. We are absolutely not obliged to give up this freedom in favor of the rule "better is less and better." Redundancy, carnival and variegation do not need to be afraid: "too much" does not necessarily mean "bad."
Even a devoted fan of minimalism or sports style can be shaken by the beliefs of a marathon of films from the golden collections of the 80s. Looking at Molly Ringwald (the main star of the best films directed by John Hughes and one of the faces of the decade - not in vain, I think it’s just like her and her heroines that Yorkie from San Junipero looks so much like) in "Pretty Girl in Pink" and "Sixteen Candles" or Lynn in "Girls want to have fun", only the most resistant will not want to try on jackets in peas, dresses in colors and colorful leggings.
In modern men's fashion, however, the style of the 80s in the most radical manifestations is not found. While the case is limited to greater relaxation and volume of silhouettes: the jackets are large and broad-shouldered, the pants are wide. By the way, starring beauty campaigns are also quite a consequence of the 80s. In matters of style, if there are not enough wide trousers, John Hughes will come to the rescue again, in the films of which there are also enough stylish male characters. The most colorful of them - Dacie in the same "Cutie", who in the art of mixing prints and finding the most unexpected accessories did not lose the main character. The most everyday and safest options - in the "Breakfast Club". And the ideal character of Hughes in the 80s - a high school student from "Ferris Beuller takes a day off."
Photo: Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs, Nina Ricci, Acne Studios
