The best thing that happened at London Fashion Week
Olesya Iva
FEBRUARY AND BEGINNING OF MARCH - HOT TIME for the fashion industry: one after another are the main world fashion weeks, where they show the collections of the future autumn and winter of 2016. This week is over the shortest and most avant-garde fashion week - the British. We tell what really outstanding happened during her in London and how it can affect us.
Show by J.W. Anderson
The brilliant Briton Jonathan Anderson confused everyone. He devoted his previous, pre-autumn collection to the 70th, and a full-fledged autumn-winter collection, unexpectedly - to the 80th years. So he made it clear: to focus on the style of a particular era is useless, and all decades are in fashion from the 1950s to the 2000s. Each brand chooses its own or mixes several at once. All this does not negate the fact that the return of the 80s have been waiting for a long time and Jonathan was ahead of everyone. The designer says that in the new collection he turned to the idea of consumerism and kept in his mind the image of Soviet women who, in the late 80s, came to consumption, as well as the fashion of East Berlin. In addition, he wanted to show how haphazardly women actually wear things. From here: accordion boots with a small heel, lurex, difficult to match prints and corduroy ribbed trousers. Particularly successful were the designer geometric accessories (Anderson suggests wearing earrings of different shapes - triangles and circles) and voluminous coats made of colored leather with a length of mid-calf.
Simone Rocha Show
Baroque and Gothic are back, and Simon Roch, who draws inspiration from her first show, spoke best on these topics. In 2014, Simone received the British Fashion Awards, and her Victorian dresses with an abundance of decorative elements are in demand all over the world. The designer demonstrates that today is the main value in the luxury segment - hard work and complicated technique of execution. The show opened velvet dresses and completed baroque jacquard dresses. Simone did not change her favorite tricks - the use of pearls and shuttlecocks. You should also pay attention to the hairstyles of models: the hair was wrapped around the neck, like a shawl, and the models seemed to come off the canvases of the 17th century.
Show Gareth Pugh
The main British visionary Gareth Pugh has returned to London this season. This is indeed an event: before that, for seven years in a row, he had made premieres of collections in Paris, and last season in New York, where he introduced the format of video installations. At this London show, there was also a video - a mini-film by Ruth Hogben: a fair-haired girl shredded her locks for several minutes, smeared with blood-red paint, and in the final video burned in a bright flame. On the faces of the models painted red crosses, resembling the coloring of football fans. In the autumn season, Drink no longer reflects on the digital world, but returns to its roots, showing belligerent images. Gareth worked with black leather, fur, spikes and a thousand cocktail sticks. The main items of the collection were capes and geometric voluminous dresses to the floor.
Ashish Show
Ashish straightness does not hold. The word "SEX" on a fluffy sweatshirt, coupled with scarlet latex stripper boots, best describes the atmosphere at the show. The designer combined silk combinations with parks - we already noticed this contrasting technique on the catwalks of New York. Another reading of the linen style was also demonstrated by models with punk multicolored bangs - in some knitted shorts and T-shirts. The designer also showed where to go to work with sequins - now camouflage and leopard patterns were laid out from them. In an interview with Style.com, Ashish Gupta literally echoed our article about the return of sexuality. He said: “A woman should be free to choose what she wants to wear. I cannot help but note the fact: if a woman is dressed sexually, then the concept of a whore is fixed on her. It seems to me unfair and offensive. Stereotypes should be fought. Everyone should enjoy your sexuality and wear whatever you like, without fear of having an unpleasant label. Be sexy and strong. " We subscribe to every word.
Marques'Almeida show
Marta Marquez and Paulo Almeida, winners of the British Fashion Awards, continue to work on universal women's and men's collections. In the new collection, their branded ripped jeans have not gone away, but this is not a repetition of the past, but a new level. First, a colored denim appeared: the show opened red total-bows, and continued pale pink and green. Designers in the usual way use both color transparent chiffon, color fur, twist denim in bows, and also dress models in knitwear from head to toe. The use of multi-colored jacquard, as a tribute to the return of the baroque style, and metallic leather has become new. All the images complemented the boots, without which this season does not do, it seems, no show.
Christopher Kane show
A week ago, the first Christopher Kane store opened in London. In addition, a significant share of the brand bought conglomerate LVMH, owning Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Kenzo and other brands. But, despite the influence of a large concern, the designer manages to find a compromise between commercial collections and courage and a variety of ideas. A good example is the new Kane collection, soaked through with sexuality. The most vivid impression is made of colorful lace dresses. Fragments of bright colors are made in the form of woven naked bodies of both sexes, partly reminiscent of the "Dance" by Matisse - last season many designers drew inspiration from the artist's canvases, so it is possible that Kane developed this line in this way. Following Rick Owens, Kane also continues the revolutionary de-buisation of male nudity: on one of the dresses there is an image of a male body with legs spread. Part of the cocktail dresses solves the topic more veiled - it is sewn from transparent chiffon, slightly opening the body. Kane in the new season uses a lot of ruches and multi-colored velvet: black, red, blue. Obviously, this material is another trend of the next autumn. Also, the designer shows tuxedos, feminine skirts and blouses and our favorite chokers.
Mary Katrantzou show
Mary Katranza is one of the most commercially successful young designers, renowned for her kaleidoscopic prints. In the meantime, she has already preferred embroidery for several seasons. In the new autumn season, Katranzu explores work with materials of different types and works with the Baroque theme, which has passed a red line through most of London's shows. So, Mary combines the baroque maximalism and the minimalism of the Victorian era, which resembles the technique used by Miu Miu. The entire collection is inspired by Victorian painting, and the designer works with the appropriate color palette. The designer also combines baroque fabrics of different colors with volumetric details made of bright and transparent plastic. The velvet shoes on the platform, paired with tight tights, clutch sponges and transparent chokers of fancy shapes deserve attention.
New names
London is traditionally rich in chamber events of young and talented designers, for whom there is no need for a podium. A number of these young brands are already deservedly in demand, and someone is just beginning. For example, Ryan Lo made his first show with baroque dresses, in which he used a lot of transparent lace, bows and down. The genius of working with denim Faustine Steinmetz in the new collection used silicone elements in the form of paint, and the seams were decorated as if they were smeared in Photoshop. On the Fashion East platform, a new star, Caitlin Price, redefines sports items. Shrimps presented a collection in the style of the 70s. In addition, the graduation show of Central Saint Martins students, as usual, hinted to us who the future of British fashion is for: definitely remember the names Matty Bovan, Yushan Li, Charles Jeffrey, Beth Postle and James Theseus Buck. The latter, in the spirit of time, decorated men's things of simple cut with silicone phalluses - probably, this exploitation of the male genitalia should be considered as a reflection on the exhibitionistic nature of fashion.
Photo: Getty Images / Fotobank (1)