Kinotto and hope for comfort: 7 new flavors up to 5,000 rubles
Text: Ksenia Golovanova, author of the Telegram channel Nose Republic
We are accustomed to the fact that extraordinary flavors - expensive, but you can find good perfume among the bottles, the price of which does not exceed five thousand rubles. Perfume critic Ksenia Golovanova chose seven inexpensive fragrances that are definitely worth trying.
It should be the opposite: first “mint”, and only then “verbena” - the new aroma of L'Occitane cools not worse than the menthol spray. Everyone who loves the classic Verveine, recognize his verben chord, both fresh and sweet, like candied lemon peel - only here it is placed in the scalding mint ice cube. Verbena, if you remember the vampire mythology, perfectly dares the blood-sucking dead, but this - it seems, in general, all dubious smells.
Alessandro Michele, appointed by the creative director of Gucci in January 2015, did something very correct with the perfume line of the brand: everything that Gucci came out of over the past three years (with the exception of the Bamboo line) causes respect. Including the Bloom franchise, which started for health, and continued to triumph at all: Acqua di Fiori, the first flank of an already good Bloom, sounds like a nice “niche” - juicy, green, and biting. The perfumer Alberto Morijas put the greenest thing in the world - the bitterish galbanum chord - into “Flower Water” and connected it with the floral block of the classic Gucci Bloom through the green of a lily of the valley.
Nomade, the last Chloé fragrance, is collected by perfumer Quentin Bisch. And here, as happens with all his works, the amazing Bishevskiy mojo joins the game: “The Nomad” is both disgusting and absolutely irresistible. The same emotions evoke: “ohmuritelny” Fleur Narcotique, Ex Nihilo - favorite flavor of Olga Buzova, La Fin du Monde, Etat Libre d'Orange — toffee in half with popcorn, Angel Muse, Mugler — nut fudge with bitter patchoulias, and so on. A similar trick is to mix the gourmet with the clearly inedible - Bish shows in Nomade, where sweet and full-bodied, with skin and bones, the plum reclines on a dry and patchous non-bearing basis. On the classic Chloé, transparent and tinged with greens, the "Nomad" does not look like. And so interesting.
Perhaps you have already seen on sale a new fragrance Acqua di Parma and did not recognize in the claimed "kinto" none of the known citrus fruits. We tell: kinotto is an orange myrtle, a variety of orange, known to most Italians for the cult aeration Chinotto San Pellegrío; In taste, it resembles a cola, only more citrus, floral and not so cloying, even pleasantly bitter. Almost all of the kinotto grows on the Ligurian Riviera in Italy, in the vicinity of Savona - from the initial, 16th century, kinotto landings have little left due to urbanization and several historical frosts, but today this rare citrus is back in favor and important Italian movement Slow Food. The fruits of kinotto are inedible in themselves - too bitter and astringent, but the Italians actively use them in the production of confitures, sweets and colognes. This one, in particular, is very good - acrid, like wormwood, disinfectant solution for a sticky summer in the city, perfect made in Italy.
Rentless, an oriental fragrance from the latest Lush perfume collection, is dedicated to Tachove Covington, a homeless artist who has lived in an empty water tank for seven years on one of California beaches. Covington's home ceased to be anonymous on that day when Banksy made a huge inscription on the side of the cistern: "This thing looks a bit like an elephant". The rumor of a new street art star quickly got to an influential art dealer company from Los Angeles, who immediately bought the tank from the municipality, and Covington lost his house. Fortunately, the same Banksy helped the artist with money, now he is standing in line for social housing - "in the hope of comfort." Rentless smells exactly like this - home comfort: a New Year tree, a log in a fireplace, citrus polishing for parquet.
A rare sniffer will reach the new Allegory: the issues of recent years, in particular the Rosa Rossa and the non-alcoholic Limon Verde, which was positioned as a vodka cocktail with lime, are so bad that they overshadowed the past achievements of the collection - Herba Fresca and Pamplelune. But Passiflora is really good - the sweetest floral and fruity scent in the spirit of Chiffon Sorbet and other early summer “limits” of Escada, collected from the title passion fruit, grapefruit and authentic grass-green notes. Those who love perfumery perfume make sense to pay attention to Fresh Passiflore, Maître Parfumeur et Gantier, and Mbucuruyá, Fueguia 1833.
Here, as the perfumery public expresses, the ideal "grandmother" is a fragrance in a vintage style. Strictly speaking, this is vintage: the modern version, according to collectors, is no different from the classic 1979 edition. What they do: a rosette of crunchy hyacinths, a dive into a wet currant bush, a wonderful narcissus, sweet as summer hay, and at the same time brutal, with a characteristic tinge of warm barn, and a lot of truly seventy-beasts. You can safely give your grandmother - and, barely subside the summer heat, wear yourself.
Photo: L'Occitane, Rive Gauche (1, 2, 3, 4), Ile de Beauté, Lush