Stylist Diary: Tess Jopp about pastries, 90s and hippo with glasses
Tess Jopp is a London-based stylist with Russian roots who collaborates with such publications as I-D online, I Love Fake, Vogue Japan, Nylon US and her own Vrag mag. In a diary on Look At Me, she tells about the most strange, funny and drunk that happens in London during Fashion Week. In the second edition - torn dresses on Marques Almeida, hippos with glasses on Yang Du, deathly boredom on Paul Smith and triumphal 90s on Jonathan Saunders.
Dressing gown, bulky sandals and the attack of photographers on the show Marques Almeida
Waking up after a fun night at the Mawi party, me and Rita decided to go bask in the sun at the very top of Primrose Hill. While in London there were Holly Fulton and Sister by Sibling shows, we had snacks with duck sandwiches and came to our senses in the fresh air. Since I was soon awaited by the display of my friends - the brand Marques Almeida, I had to go home and quickly decide what I should go there. My choice was for a dress from their last collection, under which I put on shiny Ashish. As it turned out, I thought for a reason: my favorite street-style photographer, Tommy Ton, managed to make my snap when I ran headlong into Somerset House to the show.
I ran into the hall at the last minute, so of course I didn’t get seats, which, in principle, I was even on hand - while standing, I could at least take something for you to photograph. When the music sounded, everyone began to rustle with their invitations, and here in Portico Rooms Somerset House began to appear models in light translucent dresses on thin straps. Natural make-up and hair, plus white and soft lilac colors and incredibly pleasant fabrics - all this together created a very light and easy spring mood. Something was made of knitted fabrics that resembled towels, inserts on other things imitated feathers - they were torn pieces of lilac fabric. My favorite was a long dress-robe of white threads - it is so soft and pleasant to the touch!
Naturally, not without denim - brand name brand. Their first collection was completely made of specially torn dark and light blue jeans, which simply blew up the sale of the brand: their clothes were worn by Elena Perminova, and Buyers from Opening Ceremony went crazy about them.
On the backstage, of course, I didn’t get right away: my friend from the Japanese Elle dragged me to take pictures on the balcony for her publication. But I still managed to run backstage after the show and congratulate the guys - Martha and Pablo. We have been friends with them for a long time, and I wear their things every season. So, last year, Grazia and Vogue printed my pictures when I donned a total look. It was a dress-coat and another shirt on top - in all this I looked like a city madman, but, you know, it only makes me laugh.
Dragons and elephants in the Yang Du showroom and table football at the Linda Farrow party
Having chatted with all the familiar photographers and stylists on the backstage, I went to the Somerset House cafe to have a snack, and at the same time went to the showroom of one of my favorite brands - Yang Du. Everyone has already heard that I have a weakness for little animals, and this label always has everything with some kind of pretty muzzles - dragons, elephants and simply made-up animals. Their clothes remind me of children's fancy dresses. What always makes me smile is when I see some Japanese journalist who has put on a huge-sized sweater with the image of a hippopotamus in glasses!
The weather was good, and I wanted to sit on the porch of a cafe at the entrance to Somerset House. There I met my girlfriend and my favorite photographer, Masha Mel. We drank coffee, she told how she liked the collection of Sophie Webster, and we decided to definitely take her to the shooting. London Fashion Week is primarily interesting to me because here I can see new collections with my own eyes. After talking with the buyers and PR people, I can ask them to send us things very soon after they appear in the showrooms.
After the shows, we went home to prepare for the party of creative director Linda Farrow Tracy, which was held in the club Le Baron. There we played table football and looked at the glasses from the latest collection of the brand, but since we needed to work the next day, we decided not to stay long and, having chatted with friends, we went home.
Racquet invitations, flared pants and the guy in the crown at Topshop Unique
Photos from the previous day, we began to disassemble in the morning. The day promised to be intense. The most anticipated was the Topshop Unique show, which brings together editors and critics from around the world. By the way, invitations to him looked like plastic plates - so you can play table tennis!
On this day, I put on all my favorite things from the collection of a young Central Saint Martins graduate Jessica Mort to somehow support her. I did it well: street photographers simply did not let me out of their hands all day, and Anna Dello Russo screamed that she wanted the same pants as mine. It was evident that we were not the only ones who took care of arriving early: the queue at the entrance stretched along the entire perimeter of Bedford Square, inside of which was a garden with a huge awning Topshop Space. When we finally got inside, all the sweets in the bar had already been eaten. But we did not despair, although the stomach was already sinking from hunger. It was good just to be present at the show, albeit in such a bad place for such a rush - a small hall with low ceilings, inside which you could suffocate without air.
New Topshop designer Kate Filan, who took office last year, is trying to make the brand more adult and timeless, relying on urban chic sportswear. She combines translucent fabrics with a cage, shows jackets, as if from the shoulder of your boyfriend, as well as my favorite plain-colored trouser suits. The very yellow flowers with flared pants are just a must-have! What I didn’t like was geometric prints with circles and triangles on the dresses - they looked, frankly, not new and even sad.
At the exit from the show, I met my friend - a famous Japanese journalist Yu Masuya. He is so sweet! This time, he put on a crown made of thick fabric - how can you not take such a picture of such a miracle!
Golden candelabra, hats with a veil and a pair of drinks at the show Temperley London
Without losing time, we run to the next show - Temperley London, which takes place in a beautiful palace in central London. Going up the impressive marble staircase, we find ourselves in a hall with mirrors and candelabra. My not very favorite brand was able to surprise me and show quite interesting solutions. I especially liked the bows with a veil to the floor, worn over the hat and feminine dress.
After the show, we were waited at the bar upstairs - drinks were being poured there, and guests were discussing the show. Of course, we didn’t give up a couple of cocktails, although we didn’t take a great interest in it: after that we had to continue broadcasting for Look At Me.
Sadness and grief, but cool fountains on the Paul Smith show
In order not to be late for the next show, we had to say goodbye to friends we met at the bar and catch the car to Central Saint Martins, where Paul Smith was showing. This huge building with fountains in front of it inspired hope that the show will be impressive.
But in the end, the half-empty front rows spoke for themselves. I don’t have much to say about the show, as well as about the work of Paul Smith, who seems to have never done anything particularly memorable. The color combinations were dull, it seemed to Rita that he made a collection for the fall, not for the spring.
Anna Dello Rousseau, dresses in sequins and Rita-tourist on the show Jonathan Saunders
On such a strange note, our day, fortunately, was not over. I was looking forward to the last show on that day - Jonathan Saunders. The place for him, he chose my favorite: the Tate Modern Museum on the banks of the Thames. The atmosphere of mystery and even intimacy was felt in its dark corridors and huge halls. In the front ranks, Susie Bubble and Anna Dello Russo communicate as best friends - it’s known that they began to spend a lot of time together, primarily because of work.
But everyone fell silent, and models began to emerge from the corridors with endless mirrors. I opened my mouth with delight when I saw the first outfits. All in the style of the late 90s: dresses in sequins on thin straps, costumes in stripes - in general, what we will wear in a year to parties. Applause sounded long after the models left. Jonathan pleased us all!
Our third day ended with eating burgers in a restaurant on the banks of the Thames overlooking London at night, where I shot Rita as a real Russian tourist.
