1920s Spring Collections: Low Waist, Hoops and Round Hats
The 1920s are the end of silent films, gangsters, wars of independence, actresses Clara Bow and Marlene Dietrich, women's emancipation, the age of jazz, the flourishing of cabaret, the Great Gatsby, art deco, constructivism and, ultimately, the collapse of the economy and The Great Depression. It is difficult to say that from this more influenced fashion (and that influenced, no doubt), but wide trousers, small black dresses, hats of cloche, characteristic flapper dress silhouettes, graphic prints, huge V-necklines and a fringe in Spring-summer collections in 2012 could be found more often than usual.
Discovering the 1920s-inspired outfit is even easier than distinguishing from each other the latest women's collections of Gucci and Ralph Lauren. Almost certainly this midi dress with a large neckline and a large symmetrical print, divided in half just below the waist, is exactly the same as worn in the movie "Cabaret" with Lisa Minnelli, the old film version of the "Great Gatsby" or the TV series "Underground Empire" . Mandatory accessories are hair accessories in the form of ribbons with flowers or embroidery with beads or stones (and more often with both) and a small voluminous handbag on a strap.
The easiest way to copy such a dress is to add a graphic print in the form of wide and not very horizontal, vertical and diagonal stripes, as did Carolina Herrera or Alberta Ferretti, which also added dresses of actual length to the floor. By focusing on a simple silhouette and fringe, under the 1920s, their Marchesa and Mark Fast collections were stylized. But the most striking outfits in the Art Deco style have turned out to be Gucci and BCBG Max Azria. Frida Giannini, without deviating from the given style, created dresses and, surprisingly, full-fledged costumes, combining incompatible boyish silhouettes and metallic luster.
French designer Max Azria also played on the combination of the incompatible: he combined Art Deco with another obvious trend of recent seasons - sports. However, the flapper dress of the 1920s, that new sports silhouettes - everything is created for one type of figure. Another thing - the fabric. In Gucci it is thick black and gold, embroidered with glass beads and metal plates brocade, while in BCBG it is flowing light chiffon and interspersing neon orange.
For Missoni and Etro, recognizable by their characteristic prints, a worthy historical background was finally found, and their zigzags and other diagonals in the new context began to mean slightly more than a hint of ethnic motifs.
Ralph Lauren, who, by the way, is one of the designers who tried themselves in cinema as a costume designer, this time turned to his works of 1974 when he created outfits for the actors of the Great Gatsby. As a result - rethought cloche hats, long, in sports aesthetics, plain dresses, feathers and iridescent silk.
Distinctive prints and silhouettes — something without which it is impossible to imagine an outfit in the spirit of Art Deco — probably that's why all designers, who somehow connected their collections with the fashion of those times, used them. But the auxiliary element and the semantic center in the form of a traditional cloche cap (from Fr. "Bell") were used by few. For example, Emporio Armani redid the headgear in a new way, but retained the traditional hairstyle for him. And then the hair was cut short, in contrast to the centuries-old foundations, and did hot and cold curls or bob haircut. In addition to the cloche hat, a variety of hats were popular, ranging from scarves tied in an oriental manner to such multi-storey structures that even Isabella Blow did not dream of.
Strictly speaking, the image in the style of the 20s is clearly not for every day, and it’s not easy to meet a girl in an outfit in the street in the cabaret of the beginning of the last century on the street. However, those who dare to wear something like that, most often hint at the aesthetics of Art Deco accessories or characteristic prints. It is also interesting that designers for display chose absolutely neutral shoes, while on the street the chance to meet massive shoes or sandals significantly adorned with stones, beads and metal plates.
Anya Khrustaleva-Hecht editor of journal Instyle | Art Deco is one of the most frequently cited by art history chapter designers. Finally, they again turned to her - long ago it was time to oust the foolish 1960s from the podiums and the color blocking with something more dramatic. The best variations of the season on the topic - from Gucci, Derek Lam, Marchesa (who would have thought) and Vionnet (who would doubt). Inspired by all of the above, most likely, the way Daisy Buchanan of the Great Gatsby. So the best accessory for all these sparkling dresses with a low waist is the Buchanan “all-consuming nonchalance.” |
Zhenya Fedorovskaya co-owner of the online store Click-boutique.ru | The twenties were the first decade of modern fashion, which has a direct bearing on us. Just because the women finally guessed to take off the corsets with pantaloons and, such a feeling, for joy, for some time we went without any underwear. Of course, it is also beautiful haircuts, love of dancing and entertainment, fashion for comfortable knitwear, which was introduced by Coco Chanel. All this, and also the oblique cut of Jeanne Lanven, of course, greatly influenced the fashion of the 20th century, and especially in the 1970s, the trend which, incidentally, barely subsided. The transition from the hippie era to the roaring twenties turned out to be quite logical. I personally love the spirit of freedom that emanates from this era more than the excess decoration, which is beautiful only on the catwalks. |
