Souvenir perfumes: 9 more fragrances worth taking from a trip
Text: Ksenia Golovanova, author of the Telegram channel Nose Republic
We continue to explore smells, worthy to take them with you from a trip to the most beautiful corners of the planet. Perfume critic Ksenia Golovanova picked up for us another nine flavors that evoke memories of the places where they were born.
The founder of April Aromatics, Tanya Bochnig, is a former model with Vogue and L'Officiel covers, and now a certified aromatherapist and perfume. Those who fundamentally avoid any "shanty-shanty" pass by: here are sprays for Shavasana, and special perfumes for the root chakra, and healing crystals on the bottom of the bottles - everything that is included in the emergency briefcase of the modern unicorn. However, the perfume - of course, organic - Bochnig makes beautiful: thick, dense and dull, like honey.
What to bring: Unter den Linden - the scent of the eponymous Berlin Boulevard, which got its name ("Under the limes") thanks to the trees that adorn it. Magnolias, tree powder and mimosa pollen.
27 87 Perfumes
From Barcelona
€145
for 87 ml
Many of those who are interested in perfumery know something about French, Italian, British perfumes - but not Spanish. There is a reason: Spain did not participate in the Second World War - dictator Franco signed a decree on neutrality - and after the war, he remained aloof from the world community, essentially in economic isolation. In short, the Spaniards were engaged in perfumery, only now outside the country, she rarely fell, and brave souls who went to the foreign market, did it with caution, often under French names.
Fortunately, the new generation of perfumers no longer have any hard memories or parental complexes - and, as a result, we are seeing the “Spanish wave”. While on the crest of the well-known Carner, but 27 87, the young brand Romi Kowalewski, also from Barcelona, will soon overtake everyone: the bottles in the spirit of Apple products are also good, and the style of compositions, in a good sense, millennial is transparent, weightless, leaving much room for owner’s identity.
What to bring: Wandervogel, or "Migratory Bird", is an excellent aquatic with mint, fennel and a delicate smash of sea pebbles on the city beach.
Papillon Artisan Perfumes
From London
£122
for 50 ml
Liz Moorse began to engage in perfumery completely in English - mixing essential oils for their own horses, who were annoyed by the summer flies. Mixed up: in 2016, one of her first fragrances, the depraved Salomé, became the finalist for the Art and Olfaction Awards. The style in which Murz works can be called vintage: lovers of “real French spirits” recognize both specific animal breathing, and strong greenhouse miasms, and mossy back streets of Murzovskiy fragrant gardens.
What to bring: Tobacco Rose - a huge, prickly and green rose from an English garden, always watered with rain.
Knize
From Vienna
$75
for 50 ml
English-speaking parfmanyas most often pronounce the name of the famous Viennese brand as “Nise”, but correctly - “Book”: this was the name of the founder of the brand, a Czech tailor. Knize boutique on Graben pedestrian street still sells men's suits and polo clothes, custom-made and custom-made, therefore, the concentration of testosterone in the studio sometimes exceeds the safe threshold. True, the lovers of classic perfumery "scribes" are treated with respect - especially if you screw in time that leather Knize Ten, in your opinion, is much better than shanelevskogo Cuir de Russie. What is true.
What to bring: Knize Forest is a green, mossy scent of the Vienna Woods. Strauss and Schubert "worked on" in the local oak forests half of the classical musical heritage of Europe. Places here are really inspired, as if from the pages of Georges Sand's evil novel: reflections of oak and beech wilderness grow into the cloudy blue water of the river, and it seems that heraldic beasts are about to emerge from the thicket.
L'antichambre
From belgium
€145
for 50 ml
The Belgian perfumery tragically does not keep up with fashion: the best of all the fragrant products that were produced by the Belgian is Dries Van Noten, but it also sits under the umbrella of the French perfume brand Les Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle. Anyway, dragging the Dries from Belgium is unprincipled - better pay attention to the Brussels brand L'Antichambre and its delicate, slightly old-fashioned perfumes with names in the style of 19th century European fiction - which is worth one Devil Smile or, for example, "Stolen letter".
What to bring: Le Chocolat, a perfume with a rich, slightly floral chocolate truffle smell. The perfect souvenir from Belgium - paired with Mick Jagger's chocolate catapult.
Andrea Maack
From Reykjavik
€98
for 50 ml
We have already written about the scents of the Icelandic artist Andrea Maak, but since then the brand has managed to leave Russia. Scandinavian perfumery doesn’t work very well here: the Swedes Agonist left last year, and the Danes Zarkoperfume, although they are standing in the Letualese Scent Bibliotheque, produce little noise. Perhaps this is a systemic problem of Scandinavian perfumery: exposed next to the bright - Italian, French and Arabic - sketches on the theme of southern nature, it is lost and goes out. It is quite another thing to buy these pale, cold mist-wrapped compositions against the background of the same landscapes.
What to bring: Birch - aroma of a cottage in the tundra: a fireplace is bursting, hunting “kirzachi” is drying by the fire.
The favorite Tel Aviv brand of all sniffers was brought to Moscow Leform stores at the end of July - and put on the shelves with almost no extra charge. But buying Zelinski & Rozen fragrant blends is especially pleasant at the flea market in Jaffa, where the owner Erez Rosen holds a shop full of fragrant wonders. Many creams, soap solutions and perfumes are made according to the recipes of great-great-grandfather Rosen, the very Zelinsky, whose name in the name of the brand is listed first - apparently, by seniority. From the same recipe book grows slightly handicraft, warm, "tube" style of Z & L aromas, which is completely different from polished compositions from "Rive Gauche". On the other hand, Tel Aviv, we definitely do not love for the gloss.
What to bring: Orange, Jasmine & Vanilla is an ardent, sultry scent of the coastal city, where, according to Rosen himself, "everyone is sleeping with everyone."
Auphorie
From malaysia
$158
for 30 ml
Auphorie is a small Malaysian brand of Au brothers (hence the name), which produces huge, over-ripe tropical fruits, spirits: if the brand composes sweetness, then this is sweetness in the spirit of local tea with condensed milk - enormous, if your skin is wrapped in your head If the aquatics are in the spirit of the 1990s - urgently reach for your Calvin Klein panties. This is a perfume for lovers of the rich Gogenov palette and any Asian perfumery exotics: tree peonies, Chinese apple trees and other sneaking tigers and hidden dragons.
What to bring: Eau de Nyonya - perfume dedicated to the Peranakans, or Baba Nёnya, that is, the descendants of Chinese immigrants in Malaysia. Smell all the Peranakan desserts at once: coconut sugar, rice pudding tapay-pulut and mango in pandan leaf.
Frazer parfum
From South Africa
$68
for hard perfume
Perfume Tammy Fraser holds a perfumery studio on Rose Street, the “Rose Street” in the center of Cape Town, but Africa is fragrant, wild, piercing, not urban at all. The African collection (there are others) so far consists of six flavors, all inspired by fragrant raw materials mined on the continent and around: Madagascar ylang-ylang, Opoponax from Somalia, resin tree mopane from Namibia and so on. The perfumes that Fraser makes are distinguished by a warm, honey-resinous profile with hints of fragrant herbs and hay - this is how the savannah smells on the eve of the rainy season.
What to bring: fresh and green After the Rains - cucumbers, wild basil and flower pollen nailed with the first showers. Sold in a porcelain case with a convex protea flower, a symbol of South Africa.
Photo:April Aromatics, 27 87 Perfumes, Papillon Perfumery, Luckyscent, L'Antichambre, Andrea Maack, Leform, Auphorie, Frazer Parfum