Nailya Sinitsyna about the world of advertising and commercial photography
Under the heading "Case" we introduce readers to women of different professions and hobbies that we like or are simply interested in. In this issue, we talked with Nailya Sinitsyna, the creator of the Eight Agency, representing Russian and foreign photographers, about the global advertising market, filming fees, festival projects, wide audience inquiries and the importance of a balanced portfolio.
I have been working in advertising since the age of 19 and by the time I graduated from the university I was already a producer on the set. It was a great experience that gave me a clear understanding of what I want to do. Then there seemed to be only two agencies that represented photographers - mostly expensive foreign ones. And I wanted to develop the market of our photographers, because there were so many talented young guys: they had a taste, they quickly learned the technical part and began to actively shoot. Like, for example, Danil Golovkin, who was my first photographer. It became obvious that it was impossible to build everything on photographers of the old school - I was always surprised that these people did not develop. I created Eight Agency in 25 years, in the crisis year, there was no money at all. I met my future husband, we left for India, traveled and on returning somehow everything went by itself, it is not even clear how it all happened. It was not easy at times, but in general, very fun. Yes, we live in a country that is not very comfortable for a small business, which can cause various problems and concerns. But if you sincerely want to do something, then nothing is scary. A woman can be both a florist and a huge business to lead. The only question is whether she has this inner need. At first it was difficult for customers to explain why I was needed, although it was understandable to photographers. The advertising industry is a huge hierarchical system. In short, there is a client who works with a large advertising agency - as a rule, these are international networks: BBDO, Saatchi & Saatchi, Leo Burnett, Ogilvy. The agency creates a creative part, and when it is necessary to realize it, a tender is held among production companies, and they are already turning to us so that we can pick up a photographer. We, for our part, supervise the whole process and make sure that all agreements are implemented on both sides. In advertising, everyone works according to a clear brief, which includes the number of pictures, sketches, examples of lighting, clothes, models and emotions. Based on this information, we estimate how many days it will take a photographer, what equipment, what assistants, what conditions. No one works on the principle of "we will remove something, we will think of something." Although the producers sometimes do not understand. It seems to them that the photo is you came, pressed the button once and took it off in twenty minutes. We have a little self-confident clients and creative teams that sometimes do not fully believe in their idea. Therefore, there are always a lot of people on the set, and it’s "we’ll still take it, and what if the client doesn’t like it, we’ll show it to him, and show it so ...". This can complicate the work of the photographer, and you have to beat him so that they do not climb into his camera.
The most sensitive issue in the field of Russian advertising stereotypes is the obligatory Slavic appearance.
I worked alone for five years and now I don’t understand how. I did not have an office, more precisely, it was in any place where there was Internet and telephone. Moreover, I worked all pregnancy, even before childbirth. I remember sitting in a ward with a macbook and writing letters, and in the same ward after giving birth I responded to some tenders. Well, as - I can not stop the process. I did not go on maternity leave at all, but it was not so difficult, the first year was wonderful. I went everywhere with the child, including shooting and meetings. Of course, I didn’t want to strain anyone - after all, when the baby is too long, not everyone is comfortable, but he was very small and calm. It didn't bother me at all. We are often approached by young photographers for advice, send a portfolio. I always try to advise which direction they should move in - for example, someone is good at portraits, or an object, or they should develop lifestyle, this is a very popular direction now. Of course, everyone wants to shoot fashion and girls in a studio with flowing hair - it happens that the portfolio consists exclusively of model tests. But we are engaged in advertising, and there are completely different requests - for high-quality, living stories. In Russia, in my opinion, there are no high-class photographers who shoot cars, jewelry or food. Therefore, in our agency, photographers in these categories are exclusively foreigners. Not always implemented advertising projects reflect the style of the photographer, his vision and ambitions. Therefore, it is also important for a photographer to shoot campaigns for himself, investing in his development money earned on advertising (and during a day of advertising photography a photographer can receive from sixty to one hundred fifty thousand rubles, depending on his level), and then he will have a very smooth, decent portfolio. Yes, for this you need to independently assemble a team of stylists, make-up artists, follow current trends, and follow western shots. In a good portfolio should be studio shooting with staged light, and at the location with natural light. It is very important to be able to work with real people, shoot your friends and acquaintances, because this is one of the most difficult tasks. The advertising market is constantly changing, changing the style of communication with the consumer. Now everyone is trying to do in the forehead. People do not think about advertising, and it adapts to this. You see the campaign of a mobile operator with the face of Urgant or Valuev and then simply associate the brand with celebrity. We post in the portfolio of our agency no more than 40% of completed projects. So when an interesting brief arrives, the photographer's eyes light up. But even a passing idea can be removed beautifully and efficiently, with good equipment, in a good studio. If the photographer decided to engage in advertising, then he should be ready for it. This is a job.
Many people think that there is a different level in Europe, but what I saw during my last trip to France struck me. For example, advertising cheese with a cheerful man with a beard from a sandwich. Or a box of Kellogg's cereal with a woman who ran to a huge bag — she was retouched as if she had no legs. At such moments, you realize that, in general, not everything is so bad. Photoshop advertising is a separate topic. Very often, in the final image, the head is taken from there, the hand is from here, the foot is from here ... A huge amount of material, different postures, camera angles are taken during the shooting, and then the collaging always begins. It is not very clear why you can not remove it immediately. Inventive and extraordinary advertising, which takes prizes on the "Cannes Lions", most often done exclusively for the festival and does not get to the general public. To participate in the festival it is enough that the campaign at least once was published in a magazine or aired, so you can shoot a brilliant clip, show it once at night on the Zvezda channel and get into the competition. This year we shot one campaign just for the Cannes Lions, it was published once, in GQ, it seems. All that we see there is remarkable festival works, giving agencies and directors and photographers the opportunity to develop, but having no relation to the real state of affairs in the world of advertising. You come to Cannes to the festival and you see a man with a beard from a sandwich a hundred meters from the festival palace. We have an incredible Polish photographer, whose portfolio consists entirely of chic festival works. It is rarely bought. For our market, his work is too conceptual, too bold. We never take money for social campaigns. For example, we sent our photographer to the Paralympic Games and did not charge for this agency fee. I think this is right and I can afford it. Photographers often work on social projects for free or at a significantly lower fee. Although now there are few orders for social advertising, unfortunately, so when there is a request for a good social advertising, the photographer always takes it off with pleasure. Russian social advertising is almost always built not on a positive, but on a negative, on intimidation. For example, “Get off the hook” (which, by the way, is an adaptation of the European campaign). As if her task is not to motivate a person or encourage, but to intimidate him. We have a huge country and the idea is not only that it should be sold to a client, it should be sold to the people. Many ideas at the development stage pass focus groups and, accordingly, what most people like, goes into production. Of course, everyone wants to make a cool, bold, cool, modern advertising, but you have to focus on the average level of its consumers. Well, for example, an advertisement for a sausage with the slogan “Daddy can” is a ridiculous and reflecting story for a modern Russian family for the target audience. It turns out a vicious circle: advertising exploits stereotypes and continues to implant them. The most sensitive issue in the field of Russian advertising stereotypes is the obligatory Slavic appearance. According to creatives and brand managers who set the direction in advertising, our society looks like this: campaigns in the United States of Benetton style are impossible or extremely rare, asserting that we are all different and that’s great, or Dove advertising showing that women with different shapes are equally beautiful. There is still a belief in society that it is better not to stand out.
Photographer: Alex Const