Paris Fashion Week FW 14: Backstage of Gareth Pugh Show
Paris Fashion Week ends in the French capital today. - the most serious and pompous of all fashion weeks. However, it also shows on her bold and advanced brands. The photographer and designer Kristina Abdeeva visited a number of them and said that she saw behind the scenes. In the first material - the backstage of avant-gardist Gareth Pugh, who presented a very beautiful and delicate collection with extensive use of technical materials.
This season backstage Gareth Pugh has a lot of lightness, gentle tones and everything that we wouldn’t think about when he saw his first London shows. Makeup artists comment on this as "work in progress": their task is to reflect the feeling of fragility and lightness. This collection of Gareth is like a sketch, they seem to work with raw material.
This is not makeup, but the memory of it. The models' faces are covered with a thin layer of talcum powder, no ink, a minimum of shadows, a little blush on the cheeks. For this, makeup artist MAC Alex Box advises to mix two lipsticks (Pink Pearl Pop and Mineralize Rich Lipstick) and apply with light touches of the palm. The hair is tucked under the net, as if a wig should be worn on top, but in fact the wig is down, and the net is only an appearance of negligence. In fashion, in principle, everything that looks ostensibly careless, actually requires a lot of effort.
The same thing happens with things: all materials are like workers, somewhere is a coarse calico, from which mockups are usually made, somewhere there is a technical fabric, which is skillfully turned into a texture that resembles a sea sponge. With all the tenderness of the palette and lyricism, Gareth, nevertheless, remains faithful to his heaviness - the boots that reach the thigh, resemble those found in hunting stores, they are made of calico and mirror varnish.
This is not the first time that “working” materials have been used in the collection, as Marzhela has already done with his craft collection. But now, of course, it is impossible not to note the influence of the unconditional queen of polyester Rei Kawakubo. This season, her dresses are made of the same technical fabric, and it is interesting to observe with what humor and each in its own way, designers rework ideas, and what happens with the concept.