Angora and Mohair in the autumn-winter collections

In the section Wonderzine talks about trends from the podium that can be adapted for your wardrobe for the next six months. In this issue, we understand why at the peak of mohair - material for sweaters for all times.

How it all began

Mohair is a material made from the wool of angolesian goats. It can be soft or hard: the characteristic depends on the age of the animals from which the wool is cut. The main thing is that the pile should be slightly corrugated and have an oil luster, which dims after dyeing mohair: its natural color is white-gray: you must admit that it is not the most attractive for clothing makers. Mohair has several advantages over other natural materials: it retains heat best, burns poorly and maintains a good appearance for a long time. If we talk about the history of mohair, then Turkey is considered its birthplace, from where it was brought to the West. The first wave of popularity of the material came at the end of the XIX century, when Europeans began to produce it massively in South Africa, which still produces 60% of the total mohair per year.

Of course, mohair was always allowed to create warm clothes - coats, sweaters and hats with gloves. This is an expensive material, so its use by a large number of designers directly depends on trends. Mohair gained popularity in the 1970s, when Yves Saint Laurent styled volume fur and other similar textures. Now his successor, Edie Sliman, includes cardigans and mohair plaid scarves in the Saint Laurent collection, referring to grunge. Now the use of mohair for stamps is another way to turn to 1990: Stella McCartney does the same, showing voluminous sweaters with a checkered pattern. This season, mohair is used to sew dresses and coats of the brand of the luxury market segment, for example, Jil Sander, because the material is better to find difficult.

How to wear mohair and angora

The simplest thing is the top of the mohair: a turtleneck with massive shoulders in the spirit of the 1980s, like Olivier Rousten’s for Balmain, or a simple sweater that is No. 21 ties on the hips. These should be worn with a skirt or trousers with a noticeable contrasting texture, such as glossy leather or costume tweed. Erdem Moralioglu uses mohair in one of the most interesting ways. He creates suits with stripes of material and even lets him on evening dresses: he complements the dress with mohair base with an organza top dress. Marni and Sea sew voluminous cocoon coats from Mohair, which successfully copied all mass brands, from Topshop and Zara to H & M and Monki. You can also find accessories from the material - beanie and mittens. Designers demand a mixture of mohair and wool: from this combination Acne and Paule Ka produce skirts, and Isabel Marant - jumpers.

BEWARE!

Mohair is a texture that is well suited to almost any other: from different types of skin to neoprene. Perhaps it is neatly necessary to treat the whole of the mohair stuff. The main thing - do not combine it with a woolen coat or pants: they will be covered with a pile.