Arthur Arbesser: Agents things from Italy
IN THE WEEKLY RUBRIC "NEW MARK" Wonderzine presents young designers and tells where and how you can buy their things. Our hero this week is Austrian Arthur Arbesser, the founder of the Italian brand of the same name, which works with unusual fabrics and favors gender-neutral silhouettes.
Arthur Arbesser refers to a new wave of young Italian designers, to which, for example, belong Fausto Puglisi and MSGM. He grew up in Vienna, studied in Central Saint Martins London, but consciously settled in Italy. For seven years, Arthur worked in the house of Armani and well studied the possibilities of the local market. From Milan it is convenient to work, given the territorial proximity to the best Italian textile mills.
Arbesser builds all the collections, starting from unusual fabrics and preserving the simplicity and minimalism of the cut. For example, for the production of jackets and short bermudas it uses a terry cloth, for polo and a pleated skirt - transparent nylon, for a dress according to the figure - cotton linen fabric. In Arbessera you can find examples of working with waxed and rubberized cotton or faux suede.
In the Arthur Arbesser collections there are always things with bright graphic prints. As a rule, the designer creates them under the impression of Italian art and design. For example, the prints in the latest collection cite the work of the legendary design group Memphis of the 80s, who invented bright ironic furniture. The brand is distinguished not only by manufacturability, but also by working with gender-neutral silhouettes: Arthur chooses pointedly androgynous models for lookbooks and in each collection combines things that are traditionally considered feminine or boyish. Thus, the latest collection of Arthur Arbesser was first demonstrated at the 88th Pitti Uomo exhibition on models of both sexes.
There are high hopes for the brand. In 2013, Vogue included Arthur Arbesser in the app “Who is on next?”, And this year Arbesser is already on the short list of the finalists of the young designers LVMH Prize along with Jacquemus, Marques'Almeida, Vetements, Off-White c / o Virgil Abloh and others. The brand is well represented in Italy, sold in the online stores of The Corner and Farfetch, as well as in Tokyo's Opening Ceremony.
It was not by chance that we called for the shooting of a video in support of the spring-summer collection of the Austrian 50-year-old model Kordula Reier, who earlier posed for Helmut Newton. For me, gender or age of my client does not matter. The main thing is that he should be in harmony with himself and, of course, have a sense of humor.