What you need to know about hair coloring
Somehow we wrote about how to choose a cool haircut for yourself, but the question of hairstyle, of course, is not limited. Now we talked with professional colourist Victoria Turitsa about hair dyeing and found out everything you need to know before changing color or painting over gray hair at home or in the salon.
Why dye your hair
First of all, you need to understand what is needed from staining. If gray hair interferes with living, resistant paints are needed. If you want to change the natural color or give it shine (unpainted hair usually does not shine), you need others. I try to discourage me from discouraging any quick impulses, especially if the client has long hair. But this is me about home coloring, a good master will paint correctly. If you change the color yourself, the first thing to do is to come to a professional store. Any household dyes, no matter how they are advertised and called ("soft", "ammonia-free", "semi-permanent", etc.), are powerful paints that are aimed at the lasting paint of gray hair. Therefore, simply changing the color of the commercial dye from the conditional "Auchan" is not worth it. And for the same money you can buy professional dyes. Yes, not all specialized stores have experienced consultants, but usually they know what to mix with in order to get a certain color. Again, it is good to read the Internet to find out what colorists are guided by: color types (not these “autumn-winter-spring-summer”, but others), background, lighting and so on. If you do not know this, even with professional paint you can get an unexpected color that will be difficult for a neophyte to fix, and then you still have to go to the master.
If at home you need to paint over gray hair, it all depends on the budget and ingenuity: gray hair is very easy to paint over with "ordinary" dye. The quality of the hair after it, of course, is a separate issue, but the gray hair will definitely go away. If professional dyes are used for the same task, one must have basic knowledge of their work, because, unlike ready-made mass-market, they should be mixed. When it suits its color, but it lacks luster and depth, it is better to use professional paints. I force them to use them, because they are just as accessible as mass ones, and you can buy them yourself. Even for 300 rubles you can buy a normal dye.
What is the advantage of professional and ammonia-free paints
On professional dyes, there are usually no recommendations for mixing colors, and, in principle, household dyes can be used to neutralize, but there is a risk to get to the sky with your finger. According to the photo that accompanies them, it is impossible to understand the shade that will eventually come out - it is like looking at a magazine photo through studio light and photoshop. To estimate it, you need to know what each number in the number of shade means. I have clients who know what colors they need to paint. Troika, for example, indicates a golden hue, so if you want to get ashy, it can not be used.
There are also ammonia-free and temporary dyes that do not last very long. Ammonium-free dye does not penetrate deep into the hair, it keeps on the surface and does not damage the structure of the hair, even if it is painted in a lighter color. Another plus of them is that if the color turns out to be different from what you would like, you can correct it with the same dye of a different shade. Ammonia dye also drastically changes hair color.
It is important to understand that staining with persistent ammonia dyes is a one way ticket. After them, the hair may remain of excellent quality, but the native pigment will go away and remain artificial, which can change with time (for example, fade). Well, in general, self-staining is better to start with semi-permanent pieces like shampoos, foams, creams and other things - these are also cool things, the effect of which is easily amenable to adjustment.
You can consult about the colors at least at your hairdresser. He will tell you what will look good with a particular appearance and how the hair will work with the paint. There are hairs that at first glance are very easy to dye (classic blonde ones, for example), but even the master cannot dye them in a cold blond. It all depends on the characteristics of the hair, which are known only to professionals, so with home dyeing, you can minimize the risks at least with the help of good paint.
What influences the result of staining
Of course, there are hair types. Negroid and oriental make even three tones lighter, without damaging the hair itself, is quite difficult. Hair, for example, Asians are so dense that it is impossible to brighten them until white, without eating paint all keratin. Very dark hair is a priori warm in color type, and a red or orange pigment will come out. Curly hair is also quite difficult to dye, because they are fragile and brittle by nature. Ideally, they should work with ammonia free dye. Wavy hair - no matter dark or light - also need careful coloring. Classic Slavic hair, which we call "mouse", can also present surprises and even after a cold shade of paint to give a redhead. The final result of staining is predicted based on the color type of the appearance. A person may have blue eyes and fair skin, but his color type will be warm. The type can be determined by the color of the veins and the iris of the eye: if the veins are clearly blue, the cold color type and the warm shades of the hair will be easily neutralized. And if in the eyes of a lot of warm brownish patches, it is better to prepare for the fact that the paint can not kill the natural red or orange hair color.
How to avoid yellowing when lightening
With home lightening is generally difficult, because the hair has a limit, the brighter than which he no longer becomes. After it, it is necessary not to lighten, but to tint, in order to neutralize the yellowness and to patch the hair. Good paint contains keratin, ceramides, oils and other cunning formulas that take the place of native pigments washed by the clarifier. And if you continue to zealous with lightening, you can simply destroy the hair. The complexity of lightening depends on the type of hair. For example, a Caucasian girl needs to take a break between clarifications for at least two to three weeks so that the keratin layer of hair has time to recover. To make a good clean blond, ideally, two sessions are necessary. If the hair has already been dyed, you may need more or, conversely, less time. I had a client with natural red hair, which was painted in red, and in five hours at the salon we made her a cool warm blonde (no one expected it). By the way, if the hair was previously dyed with natural dyes (henna, basma), it is very difficult with them, because such dyes are not washed out at all and can discolor, for example, in green. So, if long hair one year after henna begins to dye with professional paint, one must remember that natural hair is still in the middle of its length and has not washed out anywhere.
There is such a color scheme, the star of Oswald, colorists go through it during their studies. According to it, it is clear that yellow, unloved by all, can be neutralized with violet opposing it, and you can get rid of red in chocolate and coffee shades with the help of special “matting” colors based on green pigment. Colorists use mathematical formulas by which one can understand how much neutralizing tone is needed. So if it is unwise to use a cold tone, you can turn from yellow to violet.
How to care for dyed hair
After staining hair care, of course, changes. For natural hair, you need to use care in accordance with their type (curly, dry, etc.), dyed can also be attributed to the types. If there was a discoloration, you need a serious moisturizing and restorative care, for example keratin. Keratin is now generally a buzzword, but it really needs hair to protect, and bleaching in most cases, it washes and spoils the hair. If they are completely dry and porous, they cannot be fully restored, but they can be made more brilliant and dense. To do this, there are lots of products from gentle shampoo to masks. Plus, you need to pick indelible care (air conditioning, oil).
How to achieve a beautiful unnatural color
In the case of painting in unnatural colors, the key to success is a sound basis: qualitatively and evenly (that is, without any stains) bleached hair. Any color can be put on a good basis. In principle, this does not even need persistent dyes. I do not even recommend persistent, because today you like green, and tomorrow is gone. There are a lot of pigments in the form of shampoos, foams, creams, which you can dye your hair in cool colors. Of course, all the pastel shades are quite difficult to obtain. I believe that they should be mixed, clearly calculate the exposure time, carefully applied. Compared to them, juicy, acid colors are not a problem at all. But we must not forget that with them you need to build on the original hair color. I would recommend doing the color strands yourself, but the whole head should be painted by a professional. You also need to know that different brands of different intensity of colors: one blue can be flat and dim, and the other - deep. It is impossible to name any one of the coolest companies, because there are so many of them.
Why ombra does not go out of fashion
Coloring degrade is still popular. Now many who had a gradation on dark hair, want very bright ends. In general, I believe that it is very beneficial in all respects coloring: both for the quality of the hair, and in the sock. To maintain a blond in good condition, it is necessary to paint the roots about once every three weeks, here you can even leave the natural color at the roots. In principle, you can make a gradient once and then grow hair (though it will still have to be updated every six months). But this is probably the most economical form of coloring, and if done well, it will always look great.
Photo: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 via Shutterstock