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Editor'S Choice - 2024

Designer Nadezhda Odinaeva about favorite outfits

FOR RUBBER "WARDROBE" we take pictures of beautiful, original or strangely dressed people in their favorite things and ask them to tell related stories. This week our heroine is designer Nadezhda Odinaeva.

I'm not sure that my style has finally formed - it changes depending on the circumstances and the situation. Until the age of ten, I managed to live in Tajikistan, Hungary and several cities in Russia, thanks to which I was able to look at myself and the world from a different angle. I think that is why my wardrobe is heterogeneous: there are a lot of elegant and flashy things in it, as well as the simplest ones. Today, I can look like a boy, and tomorrow - as a moderately conservative woman, or even dress up as a ball. I’m approaching buying clothes in an old-fashioned way: it’s important for me how the thing sits, what the fabric feels like, how the model is sewn, so in order to choose one thing, I need to take a dozen things into the fitting room.

I was strongly influenced by my mother, a fashionista: wherever we lived, she found talented tailors and sewed incredible clothes. She and she also dressed us extravagantly; as a child it seemed strange to us that we stand out among peers, but later I realized how cool we looked. Mom tried to sew us clothes to order according to her own sketches or copying things she saw in magazines. In the 90s, we had a tradition: once a season, we all sat together at the TV when we broadcast shows - mom especially liked Paco Rabanne. Dad, who drew well, was given a notebook; Mom pointed to a model that she liked, and he sketched a bow with lightning speed - later the notebook was given out to me too. Maybe this predetermined the choice of profession.

The last six years I have been working in the design team of Ulyana Sergeenko, and this greatly influenced my appearance. Seeing the beauty that is being created in our home, I wanted to look more subtle and feminine. My wardrobe is divided into three blocks. The clothes "from Ulyana" are mostly sophisticated, feminine dresses and costumes. Mass market is jeans, shoes or some bright things. And, of course, vintage, which I find in the most beloved second-hand in Paris for many years. It is located near the Saint-Paul metro station - I find it on a pink sign.

The costume is custom-made, Ulyana Sergeenko shoes, Prada bag

The costume was made several years ago especially before going to our show, then I had a fuchsia craze - I feel Marie Antoinette in it. I wear it entirely on celebrations or top and skirt separately - in everyday life. On the jacket already cracked the seams, so I was carrying it. I adore this neckline and would like it to be in half of my things, but as it turned out, it is very difficult to find something like that. Bag - a gift. I like how satin-duchesse shine nobly and how folds are laid carelessly. And the bag frame is hidden inside, which makes it seem like a piece of cloth.

Vintage fur coat, Ulyana Sergeenko shoes, Ulyana Sergeenko Couture bag

She bought a fur coat on her last foray into a favorite second-hand - I call her "daughter Shalyapin" for a luxurious look. It was perfectly preserved, the only drawback is weight: the thing is so heavy that at the end of the day I could hardly drag my legs back to my home. This does not prevent me from wearing it almost every day with everything: sneakers, heels, boots, jeans and dresses.

Bag - the pearl of my wardrobe. She is from the collection created under the impression of Sergey Paradzhanov. In the film "The Color of the Pomegranate" there is a frame where Sofiko Chiaureli holds a white rooster on his shoulder - so he turned out to be the prototype of this thing. I cherish it very much, I keep it under glass - I hope the handbag will become a family relic and will be inherited.

Johnson Woolen Mills shirt, vintage pants, Topshop shoes

With a shirt came a funny story. I bought it for ten euros in my favorite Parisian second as a gift to my boyfriend Dima. I was very happy, knowing how he would like it, but before giving it, I decided to try on it - and I realized that I wouldn’t part with the thing. Dima sometimes looks at me and says: "Why do you need it, give it to me, it will go better for me". Only after reading this material, he learns that the shirt was actually intended for him. I love her for her uniform and print - I imagine that Tupac wore her.

Pants bought everything in the same second-hand and also for ten euros, but a few years earlier. They sat perfectly, that in length, that in volume. I love everything in them: tight jersey, whose knees are not stretched out, pointed arrows, ribbons as on grandfathers, high waist and, of course, color! Red - my favorite, in second place - pink. I wear them both with heels and sneakers. I plan to sew duplicates in several colors in the future, but have not yet found the perfect fabric.

Topshop jacket, Benetton dress, J.W.Anderson x Topshop skirt, Marc Jacobs boots

Jacket bought because of the color and length, I have to him to have a skirt in the kit. It is not very comfortable to wear under outerwear: in the spring it is cold and in summer it is too hot, so I rarely wear it. The red dress bought in a Parisian second, apparently, it is from some ancient Benetton collection. The thing is made of the softest silk, cut as a combination, but with a frill at the bottom. It’s hard to wear it solo, it’s too frank for my taste.

Skirt from the collaboration J.W.Anderson and Topshop. I looked at it for a long time, but did not dare to buy because of the unjustified price, but then I saw it at a sale for 1500 rubles; regret not taking the pullover that was offered to her. A diamond-shaped pattern is a bit full, but I still love the skirt for the ornament and fringe.

Vintage vest, jacket and bag, Chloé skirt, Zara shoes

The only thing I bought via the Internet is this vest, and then he accidentally fell into the tiny VKontakte group, where they sold vintage. I paid 150 rubles for it, and in addition I was given a chocolate bar. It is made of super thin suede, I could not believe that it was really her. I wear it exclusively in a pair with this suede jacket, which I found in my favorite Parisian second. I am very happy when things from different parts of the world and decades combine so well in color and texture.

Bag all of the same second-hand. In general, it is a case for wine, I really like the leather strap, which is needed in order to insert corkscrew and glasses into them. I carry it like a bag, and sometimes I put a live flower in the strap of a corkscrew. Sandals bought because of the golden color and comfortable heel. They rub a little, but I do not lose hope someday to carry them. Onion generally reminds me of images from the "Burda" of the 80s.

Vintage blouse, Teddy's jeans, Topshop shoes, Prada necklace, John Galliano watch, Jean Paul Gaultier belt with pockets

Blouse bought in a Parisian second for five euros. I really like its volume and jacquard fabric in a small leopard.

Sometimes it is very useful to communicate with your neighbors on the porch. Having exchanged a few words with a neighbor, I found out that she used to have a second-hand and now there are fifteen bags of clothes in the basement of our house. On the same evening, a small company of girlfriends, we raided this basement. What was not there! These jeans are one of the finds.

Leather pockets - a gift. They resemble a holster, so that, putting them on, I feel like a bully. Necklace is also a gift. Previously, a large plastic rose hung in the center, but I ruthlessly cut it to fit almost everything. Shoes bought long after exactly the same gold and peach out of order.

Longsleeve H & M Studio, vintage skirt, glasses Ulyana Sergeenko, sneakers Converse

I got the skirt with a fight. My friend first saw her when we once again entered the Paris second-hand. Noticing the skirt in her hands, I realized - this thing is mine! To my luck, the friend she was great and the girl gave it to me. I, however, slightly wore a skirt, in some places I restored the crumbling sequins and wear it with pleasure. I like to wear it on weekdays and have a little party.

The kit to her recently found this pink longsleeve. I like its quality: elastic mesh is 100% silk, so it is very comfortable. "Converse" upset me. I pierced them for a week - the sole has come off. I will look for a replacement.

When creating these points, the team was inspired by the image of David Bowie, which he supplemented with a pirate bandage. For me, these glasses personify a balance between reality and fantasy, looking through a black lens, I stand firmly on my feet, and looking through the pink one, I fly away to the world of fantasy.

Ralph Lauren shirt, top and pants - Levi's x Jean Paul Gaultier, Converse sneakers, Uniqlo boxers

The shirt is another unsuccessful attempt to make a gift to his young man. I bought it in a Parisian second, but this time the thing turned out to be small for him. This is just the perfect white shirt made of thick cotton.

Previously, these top and pants were overalls, but I cut it, after which he gained a new life. Men's boxers bought specifically for these pants, I really like their low fit.

Sweatshirt and hat - Mountyke, Champion T-shirt, Topshop Boutique jeans, H & M boots

Besides fashion, another one of my passions is traveling. That's how I look at all the pics from trips to harsh countries. I prefer to go to places with a minimum level of comfort, walk in many kilometers of hiking, sleep in a tent, swim in ice ponds and so on.

I decided to express my love for nature by creating a small brand, Mountyke, which stands for "mountain dog" (mountain - "mountain", tyke - "mongrel"). I do not try to time the collections for the seasons and do not divide the clothes into female and male. I'm releasing what I'm interested in doing at the moment. I am confused on quality and I approach every process of production as scrupulously as possible. A hat and a sweatshirt are just the things of my brand. I deliberately made a small print run of caps in my favorite pink color and for a long time I selected a shade of yarn specifically for this pink Champion t-shirt.

I found the shirt myself in Tsvetnoy, in the men's section. Having carried the week, I realized that this is a thing for life. Returned to buy another one, but they were no longer there. Then there were long searches on the Internet, but it turned out that these T-shirts were made in limited editions and they were nowhere left. I love her for color, quality, form and the fact that it is sewn not from thin, but compacted knitwear, almost like a sweatshirt.

Shoes are a spontaneous purchase, but I often wear them, although they have to be constantly washed.

Dress H & M, headdress made itself, earrings, thimbles and shoes - Ulyana Sergeenko

Dress bought for color; I am also very much in favor of the jacquard pattern, in general I like to collect items of a boudoir type. Despite the fact that the model is bright and binding, she wore it many times already both at ceremonial events and just for work.

The headpiece is a copy of the mesh, which for one of our shows was made by the great hatter Stephen Jones. I really liked them, and I made myself something similar.

Ring thimbles and earrings in the form of bells rivet the eyes. I feel like a cow in a meadow in them, they still jingle nicely, as there is a crystal drop inside.

Ulyana Sergeenko dressing gown, Topshop top, Yeswayfashion pants, Zara sandals, Prada necklace

Another boudoir image. I love this robe for bringing me back to the roots. My grandfather is Pamir Tajik. In my childhood, when I lived in Tajikistan, I was fascinated by the way women looked, dressed in bright robes with short pants. Hence the love of such images. The robe is made of fine silk thread, which is knitted oriental patterns. I try to wear it rarely so that it will delight me longer.

Pajama pants are a creation of a friend who literally a month ago launched the brand Yesway fashion with very beautiful home clothes. They have such an interesting cut that it is not immediately clear whether this is a skirt or pants. I decided that they are too good for home, so I often wear them on the way out.

The sandals are super-uncomfortable, but very beautiful - they look like dancing shoes. I can take them a maximum of half an hour.

Jacket and bag - Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana dress, Ulyana Sergeenko belt, Vagabond shoes

Jacket and bag - a gift from Ulyana Viktorovna for her birthday. The bag is made in the form of a book in an old binding. The jacket is deeply vintage, made of brocade with an incredible texture. I like to wear it without a special reason in order to feel like a gorgeous woman on an ordinary day. A heavy chain is sewn from the inside of the bottom, as is customary to do at Chanel almost from the foundation of the brand. I appreciate such details, which then become cult. Shoes bought recently, wear constantly. I like them because of their simplicity.

Earrings: Vintage, Zara

Vintage earrings made of Czech glass - a gift from a cute friend Ani. Earrings with palm trees - a rare sample of jewelry from the mass market, which I got accustomed. I like the combination of a naive motif and luxurious coloring of stones.

Rings - a gift, watch John Galliano

Rings - gifts dear to me people. A watch is a gift from a sister. I am a fan of John Galliano, my childhood had a solemn thank-you speech, which I am going to give when I met him! My sister Sasha, knowing this very well, periodically digs for me the Galliano things of the time when the brand still belonged to him.

Ulyana Sergeenko glasses, unknown brand, Prada

Bags Ulyana Sergeenko, Fendi

Bag Ulyana Sergeenko

Watch the video: Carnevale Couture at Jelsomino Cafe (November 2024).

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